Lupine Bike Lights, anyone using them?
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127.0.0.1
Flashlight Enthusiast
I don't have direct feedback but some hard-hitting racers I know of use them and they have no complaints, only praise.
but I apologize I cannot answer directly.
you can check MTBR reviews for comments on these lights
http://www.mtbr.com/searchresultscr...31301491:yzk5qn5ax9w&cof=FORID:9&q=lupine&sa=
but I apologize I cannot answer directly.
you can check MTBR reviews for comments on these lights
http://www.mtbr.com/searchresultscr...31301491:yzk5qn5ax9w&cof=FORID:9&q=lupine&sa=
The_Driver
Flashlight Enthusiast
If you speak german than you can find a ton of info over here.
I have an older model, a Nightmare with 25W halogen bulb. It has most of the features of the newer led models, but with a nice warm high-cri light.
Lupine lights are generally considered o be the most high-end bike lights with the highest build quality you can get. They are completely foolproof so you don't have to be an enthusiast to use them and are about as bright as production lights go. This and being made in Germany are the main reasons for their very high price. You can get similar models from other companies which are just as bright and cheaper (check out "my tiny sun" for example). If you are good at modding you can make a similar light like the Lupine Betty 26W with 7 xm-l leds (their best model) and you can make it much brighter for less money (see here for example).
The most important thing to remeber though is that Lupine lights are not suitable for road use. They will severly blind oncomming traffic and might even cause accidents if used improperly. This is why they are mostly used by mountainbikers.
I have an older model, a Nightmare with 25W halogen bulb. It has most of the features of the newer led models, but with a nice warm high-cri light.
Lupine lights are generally considered o be the most high-end bike lights with the highest build quality you can get. They are completely foolproof so you don't have to be an enthusiast to use them and are about as bright as production lights go. This and being made in Germany are the main reasons for their very high price. You can get similar models from other companies which are just as bright and cheaper (check out "my tiny sun" for example). If you are good at modding you can make a similar light like the Lupine Betty 26W with 7 xm-l leds (their best model) and you can make it much brighter for less money (see here for example).
The most important thing to remeber though is that Lupine lights are not suitable for road use. They will severly blind oncomming traffic and might even cause accidents if used improperly. This is why they are mostly used by mountainbikers.
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garbman
Newly Enlightened
I have a Wilma 5 (5 means the ah capacity of the battery) with 900 lumens. The current Wilma has 1500 lumens.
The lumens are not fake ones. They tested their lights in a calibrated integrating sphere
The leds that they use are hand picked to have the best results.
I use it for 2 years now without any problem at all.
I used to ride a lot in the night.
Build like a tank. The case, the cables, the battery are all top notch.
Of course full waterproof.
The range of batteries that you can use is very wide, from small 0,7Ah (emergency) up to 11.2Ah smartcore.
One of the best things about these lights is that they are user upgradeable, so from time to time Lupine releases a new led upgrade kit so you can have all the latest led with maximum output in your old Lupine light.
Also you can buy lenses with different angles to suit your needs. Mine uses 15 degrees but i can use a 18 or even 23 degree lens.
Of course you lower the output, but sometimes you need more flood instead of throw.
It depends on the use.
Another good thing is that it is user programmable so you can adjust the brightness/runtime to your needs.
One of the best things that it has is that whenever you switch it off it tells you how much juice it still has left so you can never had a bad surprise.
I know they are pricey but
they WILL NEVER LET YOU DOWN.
The lumens are not fake ones. They tested their lights in a calibrated integrating sphere
The leds that they use are hand picked to have the best results.
I use it for 2 years now without any problem at all.
I used to ride a lot in the night.
Build like a tank. The case, the cables, the battery are all top notch.
Of course full waterproof.
The range of batteries that you can use is very wide, from small 0,7Ah (emergency) up to 11.2Ah smartcore.
One of the best things about these lights is that they are user upgradeable, so from time to time Lupine releases a new led upgrade kit so you can have all the latest led with maximum output in your old Lupine light.
Also you can buy lenses with different angles to suit your needs. Mine uses 15 degrees but i can use a 18 or even 23 degree lens.
Of course you lower the output, but sometimes you need more flood instead of throw.
It depends on the use.
Another good thing is that it is user programmable so you can adjust the brightness/runtime to your needs.
One of the best things that it has is that whenever you switch it off it tells you how much juice it still has left so you can never had a bad surprise.
I know they are pricey but
they WILL NEVER LET YOU DOWN.
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Aquaflight
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- May 23, 2012
- Messages
- 4
Very cool! I had encountered this company a while back and was very intrigued...
I have been considering a Zebralight SC600w on the handlebars with maybe an H600w on my bike helmet for night riding. How would a Lupine setup (Piko maybe?) compare with a Zebralight setup?
Aquaflight
I have been considering a Zebralight SC600w on the handlebars with maybe an H600w on my bike helmet for night riding. How would a Lupine setup (Piko maybe?) compare with a Zebralight setup?
Aquaflight
Zebra-setup is less bright, were more useful, costs 1/3, runs less long on the 1st battery (bring spare), but is more than enough.
Especially when You really get and use both.
Lupine are about the best bike lights, but imho not a good price-to-value-to-output ratio, at least not now.
With the halogens, they REALLY were better than anything else; now it needs someone with very special knowledge to notice the difference, as the light engine is no longer made specially for them
Imho what did set them apart is almost gone now
(machining and parts used still are much better than the competitors, but not the output)
((but what gives: they cost at least 5 times more than the competitors, so of course the machining and parts MUST be better. Else anyone getting them were 🙄))
compare like this:
when want to drive a fast, elite car and want to win at the ice-shop and to impress everyone around, You need a Ferrari/Lambo/Maserati,
when "just" want to drive fast - in a car that is widely useable and price effective --> Porsche
Lupines are the Ferraris/Lambos/Masers... (which is not completely fair, as they - Lupine - are not italian quality)
😉
PS: when I was about to get "my" Lupine, they stopped making the BabyLu, that surely had some effects on my thinking over the products.
PPS: a surefire topic to start flame wars
🙄
Especially when You really get and use both.
Lupine are about the best bike lights, but imho not a good price-to-value-to-output ratio, at least not now.
With the halogens, they REALLY were better than anything else; now it needs someone with very special knowledge to notice the difference, as the light engine is no longer made specially for them
Imho what did set them apart is almost gone now
(machining and parts used still are much better than the competitors, but not the output)
((but what gives: they cost at least 5 times more than the competitors, so of course the machining and parts MUST be better. Else anyone getting them were 🙄))
compare like this:
when want to drive a fast, elite car and want to win at the ice-shop and to impress everyone around, You need a Ferrari/Lambo/Maserati,
when "just" want to drive fast - in a car that is widely useable and price effective --> Porsche
Lupines are the Ferraris/Lambos/Masers... (which is not completely fair, as they - Lupine - are not italian quality)
😉
PS: when I was about to get "my" Lupine, they stopped making the BabyLu, that surely had some effects on my thinking over the products.
PPS: a surefire topic to start flame wars
🙄
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This PLUS a Big Bang? You must have a) some money to burn and b) some seriously scared neighbors. You don't live next to this guy do you?
No neighbors here..! Just like kewl gadgets..Actually I want to add another Big Bang by BM and 2 more Lupine Betty Six 's.. 🙂 Can never have enough lights..
I'm looking for a good quality front light for my bike. Who are the equivalent of Porsche in the bike light world? Not sure I want/need a Lupine but I do want a good quality high output (400+ lumen) light. A local outfitter carries Light & Motion and Cygolite but reviews are mixed for both.
I'm a road biker.
Thanks.
... now its getting offtopic
😉
Hi Pardus,
how long are You riding now?
Do You use 18650 or 2*CR with the Fenix?
Because when You dont need the improved runtime of the external pack lights, I would still suggest a P60 host light with 18650 and a good Led Insert.
These usually have springs at both ends, so no more mode switching as with Your PD31.
Also the larger reflector usually focuses more light into the main beam so this should be brighter than the Fenix.
But I am mostly riding offroad, so with road speeds, maybe all of them dont reach far enough.
PS: the brighter "real bike lights" - the front light You are searching for - also will not reach farther, they tend to offer a wider beam
(which might be bad onroad, for all the other traffic)
😉
Hi Pardus,
how long are You riding now?
Do You use 18650 or 2*CR with the Fenix?
Because when You dont need the improved runtime of the external pack lights, I would still suggest a P60 host light with 18650 and a good Led Insert.
These usually have springs at both ends, so no more mode switching as with Your PD31.
Also the larger reflector usually focuses more light into the main beam so this should be brighter than the Fenix.
But I am mostly riding offroad, so with road speeds, maybe all of them dont reach far enough.
PS: the brighter "real bike lights" - the front light You are searching for - also will not reach farther, they tend to offer a wider beam
(which might be bad onroad, for all the other traffic)
G'day and thanks Yellow. My apologies for the hijack.
1) I've been riding regularly for 3 years now but rode alot growing up. Most of my riding is on paved bike trails but we'll do longer rides in the country as well. Last Saturday we did a 101km (60 mile) ride NW of Toronto. We're planning a proper century in September or October so I'll have to be prepared to start in the dark or more likely end in the dark on country roads.
2) I use CR123As with my Fenix. If I go the P60 route that'll push me to 18650s - not a bad thing because I'm looking for my next flashlight now and want 600 lumen output.
I'd prefer to not have an external battery pack so that suggest is very welcome.
Thanks again!
1) I've been riding regularly for 3 years now but rode alot growing up. Most of my riding is on paved bike trails but we'll do longer rides in the country as well. Last Saturday we did a 101km (60 mile) ride NW of Toronto. We're planning a proper century in September or October so I'll have to be prepared to start in the dark or more likely end in the dark on country roads.
2) I use CR123As with my Fenix. If I go the P60 route that'll push me to 18650s - not a bad thing because I'm looking for my next flashlight now and want 600 lumen output.
I'd prefer to not have an external battery pack so that suggest is very welcome.
Thanks again!
600+ is an XM-L on high (like a Nailbender three level led insert - very versatile and thus a recommendation)
while high is nice, it will eat through the poor cell ... calculate about 1 hour runtime
... imho a high power XP-G insert (350 lm @ 800 mA) is the best compromise, ~ 2.5 h runtime on an 18650
(When bike riding, I use my nailbender XM-L mainly on med. The higher output on high does - for me - not improve anything so much, that I want to live with the brutally reduced runtime. Its comparable to a XP-G @ 800 then (XM-L then is less bright but wider in main beam)
whatever You choose: bring a spare cell and still be much better off, than the ppl with the big n' heavy "real bike lights"
😉
... advises only good for backpacking kind of humans, where reduced packing volume and reduced weight is more important than sheer output and runtime
while high is nice, it will eat through the poor cell ... calculate about 1 hour runtime
... imho a high power XP-G insert (350 lm @ 800 mA) is the best compromise, ~ 2.5 h runtime on an 18650
(When bike riding, I use my nailbender XM-L mainly on med. The higher output on high does - for me - not improve anything so much, that I want to live with the brutally reduced runtime. Its comparable to a XP-G @ 800 then (XM-L then is less bright but wider in main beam)
whatever You choose: bring a spare cell and still be much better off, than the ppl with the big n' heavy "real bike lights"
😉
... advises only good for backpacking kind of humans, where reduced packing volume and reduced weight is more important than sheer output and runtime
