MBI #3 - Codename: HF

the_guy_with_no_name

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Dec 11, 2009
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Just wanted to mention again how much the MBI HF is THE every-day-carry light to end all EDC's right now for me. It is great and regardless of what Guy produces henceforth, many of us, I am sure, are so grateful for this torch. THANK YOU, THANK YOU!


Thanks so much KITROBASKIN.
Glad to hear that sometimes, somethings seem right :thumbsup:

Shameless plug....
Just in case you feel it worthy, please feel welcome to cast a vote in this thread ;)

The 2014 Flashaholic's "Must-Have" List

Tgwnn
 

dcphoto

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Jun 23, 2010
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Wait hu?!?! The HF tiny? How did I miss that!

Love my HF. I'm waiting with baited breath for my HF-R. Now I find out there's another MBI light I need?! :duh2::drool:

Looks like the perfect light to replace my Streamlight Nano Light. Now I need to find the thread with more info about it.
 

VeloWeave

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What is the best way to clean the patina off a Cu HF? I heard ketchup in a ziplock bag overnight would do the trick but don't know if that is optimal method. Any advice?
 

Got Lumens?

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What is the best way to clean the patina off a Cu HF? I heard ketchup in a ziplock bag overnight would do the trick but don't know if that is optimal method. Any advice?
Flitz polish is brilliant with copper. :)
+1
There are many products and home remedies out there.
I bet Guy has a good solution for you. You can email him for support.
I would be very cautious and take care to try and get as little as possible(or none) between the rotating tail switch and body of the switch itself. There's gold contacts in the switch assembly ;).
GL
 
Last edited:

the_guy_with_no_name

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@KITROBASKIN,
Thanks for posting to the Best-of thread :thumbsup:


Wait hu?!?! The HF tiny? How did I miss that!


Love my HF. I'm waiting with baited breath for my HF-R. Now I find out there's another MBI light I need?!


Looks like the perfect light to replace my Streamlight Nano Light. Now I need to find the thread with more info about it.


Hi dcphoto,


Not new thread for it as its almost an HF.
Finally, I'm expecting the working proto to land roughly next weekend and I'm really looking forward to sharing the details with everyone.




What is the best way to clean the patina off a Cu HF? I heard ketchup in a ziplock bag overnight would do the trick but don't know if that is optimal method. Any advice?
Hi VeloWeave,
Thanks for the question.
I know we mailed already but in case its helpful, I tend to use Glanol metal polish for just about everything.


I discovered quickly that it cleans all too well, some of the brass/copper HFs I had with a rather awesome 1yr+ patina, turned into a shiny metal within just a couple of minutes of easy polishing with a cloth.


Whilst on the topic, for Ti, I sometimes also use diamond paste when I want to remove fine scratches but caution is advised as when I was using it on multiple CoreTi with a rotary tool, it seemed to give me a cough for a good few months, so now I use it sparingly, and wear a mask if I'm going to use a tool that might give off any dust.


Flitz polish is brilliant with copper.
Thanks sticktodrum :)


+1
There are many products and home remedies out there.
I bet Guy has a good solution for you. You can email him for support.
I would be very cautious and take care to try and get as little as possible(or none) between the rotating tail switch and body of the switch itself. There's gold contacts in the switch assembly .
GL


Thanks GL,
Yes good point about not getting any between the connecting parts of the switch.
I had also mentioned that to VeloWeave by mail.


I've had just a little (paste) seep into some test tails I worked on previously and it didn't seem to do them any harm as there's quite a maze to travel from the connection point to the tail internals.




"HF-R Ti UTT", "HF-R Ti STT", and Ti momentary switches with cap are all due approximately next weekend.


The UTT, is officially: Ultimate Trit Tail
So anyone care to guess what the STT is?


....Single Trit Tail


Bit of a rough photo, but gives you an idea...
HF-RUTT-STT_zps8664b821.jpg







This will let you simply and easily add a trit to the tail and as its a more standard size, more color options.
I was actually thinking of just a flat tail version but there was no reduction in height possible due to the internal structure so I decided to add the single trit slot for some variation.


This round of HF-R Ti will be available with a choice of an XML2-T6 5000K (neutral white) and XML2-U2 6200K (white) and if you are wondering what the difference is, I expect the U2 will be a tiny bit brighter whilst the T6 will have a truer color rendition (from memory 75CRI minimum) and the bin reference for that LED is between 4750K-5000K.


I am very excited to finally have a reasonable number of the momentary switches too but they might disappear quickly (expecting 100 of them).


Feel welcome to mail me (contact link in my signature in case you're not sure) in case you'd like to be sure to get a hold of any of these.


Tgwnn


p.s. for our tribal copper lovers, I have not forgotten you. Working on those, but no hard ETA just yet ;)
 

kaichu dento

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Guy, is the HF-R anywhere close to coming out in bronze yet? I really want to order one now for my permanent neck-carry light.

Bronze is tougher, and slightly warmer looking than brass, tougher and less smelly than copper (although I'd happily take copper if it was the only option too).

Love titanium, but really like the warmer looking metals.

If none of these are going to be available then I'd like to go ahead and get a brass HF-R.

Just one more question though - is there a possibility of a lower 'high' level, say 200 instead, which would still be incredibly bright for such a small light (actually brighter than my EDC Haiku and V10R Ti) and allow much longer runtime.
 

Got Lumens?

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Hi Guy,
Like kaichu dento suggested, with a twist.
Do you think it would be possible to order HF's with custom levels?
I would like a true moonlight level of 0.25 ~ 2 lms?
My HF's could use a lower level resistor on mode1.
GL
 

th8tredude

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Apr 30, 2013
Messages
321
Location
Northern California
Hey Guy, a couple questions. What's the word on the Ti momentaries? PP ready! And, you mentioned that they would be offered with a cap for HF Turbo boost mode only without using the twist switch at all. Did they end up getting any Trit slots? I'm looking forward to finally getting these! Thanks! -Th8tredude
 

the_guy_with_no_name

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Thanks for the update, Guy! Really looking forward to the copper HF-R, however long it takes... :D

Thanks jonwkng,

I'm working on a huge budgeting thing that I'm hoping will allow me to make one of everything in the next batch.
I've also been working on a new head from the HF-R that uses a lens and is slightly shorter whilst still maintaining the same awesome beam profile.


I LOVE my HF Brass. . . . it is with me daily!


20140529_074116-1_zpsfepyyppa.jpg

Thanks smarkum :D

Guy, is the HF-R anywhere close to coming out in bronze yet? I really want to order one now for my permanent neck-carry light.

Bronze is tougher, and slightly warmer looking than brass, tougher and less smelly than copper (although I'd happily take copper if it was the only option too).

Love titanium, but really like the warmer looking metals.

If none of these are going to be available then I'd like to go ahead and get a brass HF-R.

Just one more question though - is there a possibility of a lower 'high' level, say 200 instead, which would still be incredibly bright for such a small light (actually brighter than my EDC Haiku and V10R Ti) and allow much longer runtime.
Hi Kaichu,

I've honestly never considered bronze before but I am planning to add some brass to the next batch.
A lower high is doable, the main challenge is that once the PCB is installed into the tail, replacing it is not a trivial task so it might need to be a custom pre-order thing when I'm making them.



Hi Guy,
Like kaichu dento suggested, with a twist.
Do you think it would be possible to order HF's with custom levels?
I would like a true moonlight level of 0.25 ~ 2 lms?
My HF's could use a lower level resistor on mode1.
GL
Thanks GL,

Come to think of it, I did make a suppressor prototype, similar to the momentary button that just screws between the tail and body and lowers all the modes by a fixed percentage of output. I like the concept of it but felt it was a tad too long.
I do think there is a possibility of baking one into an updated head though without gaining any size.

I'll explore that as part of the new head concept I'm working on.
Doing it in the head though would just mean an all round power decrease.

Something replaceable in the tail, could potentially allow each mode to be customised but will be more complex ;)

Hi Guy, I'll second GLs question with a twist. TIA
Thanks HF ;)

That's really nice smarkum! Is the Brass lighter than the Copper? If you don't know maybe one of the other tribe members does? Thanks.
Hi VeloWeave,

I forget the exact weights but can weigh them to get an exact number. :)

Copper is heavier.
Thanks jonwkng :thumbsup:

Hey Guy, a couple questions. What's the word on the Ti momentaries? PP ready! And, you mentioned that they would be offered with a cap for HF Turbo boost mode only without using the twist switch at all. Did they end up getting any Trit slots? I'm looking forward to finally getting these! Thanks! -Th8tredude

Hi th8tredude,

The Ti momentaries are ready, the HF-R UTTs are a few days behind schedule but expecting that they will arrive together in roughly 7-10 days from now.
They will be a set with a cap (photos in this post). The cap is similar to the standard HF-R tail design (so no trit slots yet, sorry).
I chose that for the first version to minimise the height is this combo is just slightly longer than the UTT tail.



HF-Tiny,
Finally, the first couple of working proto's are on their way.
Expecting them to land Monday/Tuesday.

If both protos are good I'm definitely going to give one away along with some other things I've been planning too.
Been a little too busy of late but to set up with giveaway...I'm pushing quite hard now to reel things in (dayjob stuff) to a far more comfortable level, permanently.

Tgwnn

p.s. I posted this some hours ago and just realised it wasn't submitted...
 

kaichu dento

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Hi Kaichu,

I've honestly never considered bronze before but I am planning to add some brass to the next batch.
A lower high is doable, the main challenge is that once the PCB is installed into the tail, replacing it is not a trivial task so it might need to be a custom pre-order thing when I'm making them.
I'll take whatever you get ready to go next and if I'm allowed would love to have a customized output range.

Absolutely love the UI the way it works on the light I got from you back in December and look forward to turning one of these into my neck carry light, with a warmish/neutral 219 for sure.
 

the_guy_with_no_name

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Dec 11, 2009
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I really want one of these
Thanks invisible_kid :D

Though I'm not sure which "one" you are referring to?


I'll take whatever you get ready to go next and if I'm allowed would love to have a customized output range.

Absolutely love the UI the way it works on the light I got from you back in December and look forward to turning one of these into my neck carry light, with a warmish/neutral 219 for sure.

Thanks kaichu,

That is very pleasing to hear. Seems like it took forever to make you a convert :D
but sure am glad you see the light :crackup:

Tgwnn

p.s. some more detailed pics shortly of the momentary switch setup
 

the_guy_with_no_name

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Dec 11, 2009
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Some more images to explain the momentary switches due soon.

These switches will add an instant high (slightly higher than the regular high mode due to less resistance in the switch mechanism) via a momentary-on button. The light will stay on as long as you hold the button down which I've found to be perfect for a quick blast of light here and there without even removing the HF-R from my keychain.

Below: My keychain light, HF-R UTT with ZoomHead + V1 aluminium momentary, with new momentary (center) and switch cap (right).

IMG_0841_zps2deb2bd2.jpg


The momentary switch can be used together with the existing rotary switch and fits in-line as in the above photo.
The gold pin in the centre of the mom-switch is what makes contact with the (-) part of the battery.


Below: 3 switches. V1 Momentary, UTT Rotary, Ti Momentary (landing soon) and switch cap.
IMG_0837_zpsdd583f0b.jpg




Below: Another angle of the switch cap
IMG_0838_zpsc1350b40.jpg


With the switch cap covering the end of the momentary, you can have a high-mode only, instant on HF or HF-R.
The momentary only version is about 2mm longer (not including the keychain attachment nib on the tail).

Using both the momentary and rotary switch together will about about 14mm (a rough guess).


Below: Momentary only config, alongside the momentary and rotary together to give you an idea of the size when used together

IMG_0839_zps160b1c76.jpg


Some nice character marks visible in my trusty keychain lite of the last year.
I have to say I love this little guy. Always with me and typically outshines every other flashlight it meets regardless of size.


Below: Maybe the next step.....
IMG_0840_zps14b7a516.jpg


I know someone is going to ask or try this....
with just the switch cap, you could in theory make an ultra short, single mode twisty for a totally minimalistic setup.
There is no true "off" position yet for this set up which would need a little more threading, spring or contact plate in the switch cap but is not a complex thing to do.

My ideal would be at least a multi mode but even a single medium might be nice as a 1inch version.

This is perhaps my longest post (with most photos) in the last few months and I'm feeling like it signifies and end to the daytime siege of how busy I've been and can look forward to posting and sharing more on my much preferred crazy "all the time" routine.


Tgwnn
 
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