Minimag Kroll Tailswitch?

[shrap]

My Minimags have been given a new lease on life with Badboy 400s and the Kroll tailswitch. No more lousy output, and the Kroll removes the unreliable twist switch from the equation.

But looking at the Kroll switch, it seems to be lower quality than the Minimag standard tailcap. Plastic threads, exposed spring. How reliable are Krolls?

Are they waterproof? I can't tell whether there's an oring or it's just part of the button.

Another question: anyone have a really hard time removing the stock Minimag tailcaps? Mine seems to need a lot of brute force to remove it. Maybe I shouldn't tighten it that much, but I'm worried about water resistance, and if it unscrews by itself...goodbye LS sandwich.

 

[Dave Wright]

I wondered that about mine, but note that it's the same unit used on the Arc LS and McLux. So long as it's not overtightened the threads should last many cycles. I screw mine in gently and stop turning when the rubber just seats and I feel a teeny bit of resistance. I expect good service from the Kroll with this treatment.

I suspect that the Kroll is as waterproof as the other end of the Minimag, which is to say "highly splash resistant but not submersion rated".

You don't need to screw the tailcaps, either stock or Kroll, in tightly. Their threads are placed under tension by the spring, and the light doesn't vibrate in operation, so self-withdrawal is highly unlikely. The retaining ring will prevent sandwich dropout even if the cap is gone. You did put in the retaining ring, right? Just kidding. I put the ring in lights that I give to people, but left it out of mine.

Enjoy the light.

 

[Drakonchik]

My experience with the Kroll switches has been mixed.

With some of my Krolls--2 out of 5--you get dimming and flickering when running the InReTech Luxeon on lithium AAs. This is due I gather to electrical resistance. Others here have encountered this problem.

If I use the same problem-Krolls with a Mag or NexStar bulb, or my Badboy 400, there's no visible dimming or flickering, at least not without a lightmeter.

The way I figure, unless I know for sure that the Kroll is not wasting power due to resistance--and I don't own a lightmeter--I hesitate to use them. The human eye, they say, can only detect changes in light intensity by a factor of two--ie twice or half as bright. Without a lightmeter you may not know whether you are losing significant amounts of light.

 

[Dave Wright]

Anyone tried the Minimag tailcap switches seen on these clone software pages? They appear to have aluminum bodies. Comments on construction quality and degree of water resistance? Momentary on before clicking and staying on?

http://www.zanheadgear.com/Products/ItemDetail.asp?sid=&ItemID=1078

http://www.moteng.com/Products/ItemDetail.asp?sid=&ItemID=30072

 

[Roy]

or look here

I have several of the Ram switches and they are generally ok but the quality controll leaves something to be desired. The button is VERY soft acting which lends itself to getting turned on if stored switch down. It will stand up on the switch when the switch is in the on position.

 

[Doug Meister]

Shrap, a tight cap or any threaded Al part could be due to galling of the threads. I fixed one by using a fine abrasive such as Brasso. Yup, good old military issue brasso. You put some on the threads and screw them in and back several to many times. Each time it should go farther in. When it gets nice and loose - clean it all off and re-oil -OR- put a small amount of candle wax on the threads. Candle wax is also the best thing to lube door latches - wont transfer to anyones clothes if you happen to bump into it.
--Ðøug

 

[shrap]

Thanks Doug, I'll try the Brasso, and I'll keep the threads lubed with something.