MLOK Rail mount or Picatinny Rail mount light - lower end but quality?

letschat7

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I understand that a single Chinese 123 that gets tossed when it starts to dim in a light is somewhat safe.
 

Monocrom

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I understand that a single Chinese 123 that gets tossed when it starts to dim in a light is somewhat safe.
It's safer than a light with multiple CR123s Made in China inside of it.
But I just don't see the need to risk it.
 

letschat7

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Same. I wouldn't even have any experience if it wasn't for owning 2 Led Lenser F1, a F1W, and that early single cell V something or other Lenser that used a single CR123.

When I buy batteries I get USA made CR123s and I understand theres some from Panasonic made in Indonesia that are probably fine.
 

Monocrom

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Same. I wouldn't even have any experience if it wasn't for owning 2 Led Lenser F1, a F1W, and that early single cell V something or other Lenser that used a single CR123.

When I buy batteries I get USA made CR123s and I understand theres some from Panasonic made in Indonesia that are probably fine.
Indonesia??
Anyone can feel free to call me bigoted on batteries if they'd like. But Lithium primaries, I won't touch them unless they're American or Japanese.
 

letschat7

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These are what our European friends use. Of course, so far anyways, I've only used the USA made Panasonics.
 

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Kestrel

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Surefire (the mfg.) trusted US-mfg CR123's so much, one of their lights (12PM/ZM w/ N62 lamp assembly) was designed to run the cells so hard that they would go into thermal shutdown after only a few minutes.

That's how good US-mfg CR123's /should/ be.
 

Got Lumens?

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Single Primary cell weapon light is what You want. No rechargeables.
Preferable, the weapon light should have two springs. One in the tail
and one on the head of the light. Two springs reduce the chance of
crushing the anode of the cell after repetitive recoil.
 
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