Modded my TN31 : problem!

[bonhomme]

Hello i modded my TN31 by dedoming the XML led.
Measurements : original 1meter lux : 76.000lux 2meter lux :24.000 x 4 = 96.000lux
Measurements : dedomed 1meter lux : 90.000lux 2meter lux :37.000 x 4 = 148.000lux 4meter lux : 11000 x 16 = 176.000lux

question 1 : Can it be right that my measurements at 2meter are so much higher than at 1meter? ( 65% in case of the dedomed one)


This was the good part of modding.

Now the bad part : after i dedomed the XML , the 2 lowest settings of the TN31 dont work anymore (led does not light up) setting 3 and higher works like before (strobe also)???
Hooked up a 3watt cree xre instead of the xml , and the 2 lowest settings work fine (also the higher settings) tested up to setting 4 did not tried higher because of danger of frying the xre.

question 2 : Can dedoming change the Vin of the led?

Thanks Marc

 

[AnAppleSnail]

Large reflectors only give accurate lux results at larger distances than 1m. Some spotlights cannot be correctly measured within half a kilometer of the light.

 

[Overclocker]

beam is a bit "hollow" in the center near the flashlight

 

[Hoop]

This is why an SR-90 will get a lower lux reading at 1m than 3m.

 

[bonhomme]

Thanks for the explanation : so my lux maesurements are accurater at 2 meters than at 1 meter when a have a bigger (lets say a mag d relector) reflector.
Also my tint shifted from cool white into warm-neutral white by dedoming the led. (that was expected).
But why the 2 lowest settings does not works anymore , i dont know?
Thanks Marc

 

[The_Driver]

If you want more accurate results you should measure a 5m and also measure other known lights with the same setup. :popcorn:

 

[langham]

That doesn't seem accurate to me, first the numbers should be significantly higher and second did you take the driver out of the light? You may have installed it back in 60 degrees off or so. This would explain the lower modes not working. Did you break any of the leads? If you are down to 1 then this is something that does happen, or if you got dust on the surface of the phosphor. How did you de-dome? Did you use heat? Did you crush? There are lots of things that can go wrong during this process, it would help if you could take a close up picture of the die.

 

[bonhomme]

Hello, i did take out the driver, but i installed it correct i think, because all the other (except 1-2) levels and standby and strobe work fine when i select them with the ring.
So i think it must be the led (tried it with a xre and then level 1-2 works fine).
Maybe i broke some leads on the leddie?
I will trie to take a photo of the die.
Thanks Marc

 

[langham]

That is what happens with a magnetic control ring UI when installed incorrectly, but if you say that they work with an XRE then that isn't it, I hope it will start working for you soon if not, then you will just have to buy one of the new XM-L2 leds for it.

 

[bonhomme]

Here is the photo.

 

[TEEJ]

The "hollow" part of the beam is due to beam convergence not occurring yet.

The reason that you got a higher lux at 2 meters than at 1 meter is also due to the beam convergence pattern.

Essentially, the beam needs a few meters to gain its shape, as the FOCUS of the beam is comprised of the various PARTS of the beam all coming together at a particular range.


On long range beams, the lux at 5 meters may calculate out to a higher cd than your 2 meter shot, and at 10 meters, it might be better than at 5 meters, and so forth.

You'd need to take lux readings at several points progressively distant from the lens....maybe even out to 15 meters.

You then back calculate back to the 1 meter standard from those numbers.

As every beam is different, the "best" distance to measure the lux for the above purpose might be anywhere from 2-15 meters out. So, while the MEASURED lux might drop, the back calculated 1 meter lux might rise at longer MEASUREMENT distances.

 

[langham]

Did you ever get the other modes working again? I had a similar issue with my lowest mode, but the mode would occasionally work and then would stop again. I now have problems with all of the other modes other than the 2 lowest modes. I know what you mean with the only thing that you did was de-dome it, I didn't even remove my driver and it did the same thing, but I did disconnect one of my leads on the first one. Come to think of it the lowest mode didn't work until I installed the new XM-L2 led and it didn't always work even with that new LED. I have tried to get Thrunite to let me purchase a driver, but they didn't want to. I am going to try Supbeam next.

 

[bonhomme]

Yes they all work , but i have installed a XRE instead of a XML. So i dont use the highest setting (to much current for the XRE).
Greetings Marc

 

[Overclocker]

Yes they all work , but i have installed a XRE instead of a XML. So i dont use the highest setting (to much current for the XRE).
Greetings Marc

any reason why you didn't use XP-G2 isntead? coz that could definitely handle 3.5A from the TN31 no problem (sinkpad)

 

[langham]

I had similar issues and my problem was with a bad solder pad on the first sense resistor. I can send you the part number for a replacement set of resistors that will lower the high mode to make it useable for your XRE or like Overclocker said you could just put a direct copper mounted XP-G2 in there and make it similar to Mikes MB series. I think that mechanical agitation can cause these resistors to become dislodged from there pads and then give the light problems. Mine occurred as the low mode not working and the second one flickering and then I dropped the whole driver once while it was out of the light and I think that that was what ultimately caused it to become completely severed. You may want to check yours to see what it looks like, mine had a bad solder point as well, just didn't look all that great.