MR11 R2x3 - housing help needed

Mickey Blue

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Apr 3, 2008
Messages
7
Hi Team,

I started making a light months ago but all that I've achieved is collecting a big bag of goodies and no light to use yet. My biggest issue is the housing for the cutter MR11 kit I bought. I wanted to go DIY Dinotte style but can't find the right pipe to use for a 35mm ID. grr..

so I came across this (again) recently - Hammond Manufacturing enclosures - (see http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=407160 and http://www.hammondmfg.com/1455V2.htm) and thought maybe I'll get another MR11 kit and set them up as separate light in the same case.

So one set up to be: hi beam @700ma, lo beam @300ma or something, and off - using a buckpuck 3023 700ma (which i already have). The other set up as: another hi beam of the same-ish brightness, a strobe so i can remove my blinky and clean up my handlebars, and off - using a bflex or something maybe.

so a few questions:
1. is this possible? what haven't i thought about?
2. is heat an issue?
3. the main question, how could i do the strobe with the toggle one way and the hi beam with the toggle the other? what driver would i need?

thanks as always, you cluey knowledgable bunch :twothumbs

Mike
C:%5CDocuments%20and%20Settings%5CMichael%5CDesktop%5C6erlight
 
Presumably you mean Battery in the unit by dinotte style?
If youre not adverse o having it outside, I've successfully made one out of an old cygolite metro, (2halogen lamp) with the khatod heatsink from cutter in where the second bulb would go, and connected by a bit of copper.

Second option (that I changed to following an off & smash) is a standard mr11 can (available as the full thing with mount for £29.99, or just the can for c. £10) from Lumicycle with a bar clamp from an old commuter I had lying around.

The LEDs are connected to the can by some copper L things thermal epoxied to the inside (Hopefuly that makes sense) and although it gots hot quick, I'm not sure it could stand up to much more than 750ma for extended periods. With 3 rather than 4 LEDS I reckon You'd be ok.

Theres no way you're ever going to need two of those on the bars. It would be complete overkill.


Edit: if you have one of these: link near you and dont mind gluing everything shut, you can get suitable pipe out of anything you fancy. Bits for an old single luxeon (6 inches of ali pipe & a slug to fit end) cost me about 5£.

A quick browse around their site reveals an 1.5" copper pipe with a 0.128 wall, which would be a lovely snug fit by my maths
 
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so a few questions:
1. is this possible? what haven't i thought about?
2. is heat an issue?
3. the main question, how could i do the strobe with the toggle one way and the hi beam with the toggle the other? what driver would i need?

Hi Mike :wave:
Bflex has a blinky mode. You'll need separate control switches for bflex and buckpuck. Alternatively you could run two bflex drivers off a two way mom toggle switch, have one set on duo mode which is high/low and the other to blinky. One switch is an elegant solution.
Heat wont be a problem as long as you keep moving and can turn the lights down when stopped.
You don't really need a blinky mode with these lights though.... they are bright enough nobody will miss you and blinking might induce seizures :naughty:

For housing I'd go with this case, cut/dremmel two 35mm holes in the top and mount the MR11 inside, MCPCB direct to the housing. Kinda like two of these side by side. Easy. Mount the drivers separate. Combining wide and narrow MR11 kits is probably a good idea.
6 R2s would be quite an impressive setup. :rock::rock::rock:
 

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