Need a new EDC light

Chicago_Ted

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
40
Location
NSW Australia
Hi. Sometime this year I plan to replace my current EDC, a LED Lenser P7 (first good light I bought), with something more high-end.

Short Essay Question: What do you intend to use this light for?

It will be used in EDC, search and rescue work and outdoor environments. Durability is very important to critical, and it needs to be waterproof due to possible submersion. A 'strike bezel' would be nice if possible.

Must be LED.

I would like the light to be priced reasonably, and preferably under $100 AUS, and will carried in a holster.

It would be nice to have over 100 lumens, preferably approaching 200 or more on turbo/max.

Batteries are preferably AAA or AA rechargeable, but C123s etc are okay, provided they are safe in this light (following standard battery safety for lithium.) Not sure about Li-ons. I think I have a phobia that they'll explode.


0) What Region/Country/State will the light be purchased in?

____I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.



1) Price Range: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :)

____I could spend $40-60.
____I am willing to spend $80-$120.

2) Format:

____I want a flashlight.

3) Length:

____4-9 inches. (Holster carry)

4) Width:

____I don't care.

5) What batteries do you want to use? Alkaline batteries are easier to find and less expensive but don't pack as much stored energy and are don't work well in cold temperatures. Lithium batteries have long shelf life (10+ years, great for stored emergency lights) and are not as affected by cold but must be kept dry and are more expensive. Rechargeable start expensive, but if used frequently pay off quickly.

____I want lithium batteries. (coin cells, CR123, AAA, AA...)
____I want a rechargeable system. (an investment, but best for everyday use)

6) How much light do you want? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to do Caving or Search & Rescue operations. (60+ lumens)
____I want to light an entire campground or dazzle an intruder. (100+ lumens)

7) Throw vs Flood: Which do you prefer, lights that flood an area with a wide beam, or lights that "throw" with a tightly focused beam? Place an "X" on the line below.

Throw (distance)-------------X--------|----------------------Flood/close-up

8) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims (like some LED lights). but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries.

____60-240 min. (1-2 hours)
____240-360 min. (4-6 hours)

9) Durability: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box.)
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Self-defense, Survival.)

8) Switch Type:

____I want a "clickie" switch. (Stays on until pressed again.)
____I want a momentary switch. (Only stays on while held down.)

If it has a momentary function, it MUST be an extra as opposed to only capable of momentary activation, ie the light must have standard 'always on' mode.

9) Switch Location:

____I want a push switch on the back end of the body.

10) Operational Modes: Check all that apply.

____I want multiple light levels. (some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a tactical strobe. (Flashes rapidly to disorient an opponent.)

Strobe would be nice, but is not required.

11) Is it important whether the body is metal or plastic/composite?

____I want a metal-bodied light.

12) Special Needs: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Circle any below or write in your own comment(s).

____Waterproof – how deep: _____Down to 3 metres
____Non-reflective/dark finish (stealthy/hard to find)
____Corrosion resistant or hard-anodized finish
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Kobuton/self defense features



Thank you for taking the time to assist me. :twothumbs
 
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For a single cell light, I would recommend a JetBeam RRT-0. It can use a AA or 123 cell with the AA extender. It is just under 200 out the front lumens with a 123 cell and closer to 150 with a AA on max. It has a nice low low also. It is a five level light controlled by a control ring towards the head of the light and has a forward rear clicky switch so momentary is available.

For a 2xAA light, I have the Nitecore D20 2xAA and can easily recommend it. It is ~200 lumens on max and has a nice low low also. Both of which are available readily with a double-tap-hold for max and double-tap for low. You can also assign a memorized middle mode by pressing and holding the switch and ramping the brightness up or down to any level between low and max. This level will be lost when you switch to low or max however so think of it as a semi-permanent assignable level. You can also loosen the head and it will act as a momentary at whatever level you last had. The switch is a Nitecore's Smart PD piston drive from McGizmos design.

For a 2x123 light (or 1x18650 Li-Ion), I have the EagleTac T20C2 MkII. It is 300 lumens OTF (out the front) on max for just under 2 hours. Loosen the head and you get medium. Tighten-loosen and you get the low level. Tighten-loosen again and you get strobe. Tighten-loosen again and you get beacon. Tighten-loosen again and you get SOS. Another tighten-loosen repeats. It has a forward clickie switch with momentary and strobe is accessable there too with a quick click off/on from the on position. You can also get momentary strobe with half-press>off>half-press.

All have waterproofness ratings of some sort, are ruggedly constructed, come with clips, are HA-III hard anodized, but only the T20C2 MkII has a strike bezel and also comes with an attachable diffuser that replaces the strike bezel.
 
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Any of the 4Sevens Quark lights meet your criteria. You just need to decide what sort of batteries you want to run and whether you want the standard or tactical interface.
 
+1 on both the RRT-0 and Quarks.

I own both and think both are great lights for different uses.
 
Are you sure you have thought out the Strike Bezel thing?

It is more likely to tear up your pockets than have any practical use. Many threads here have decried the effectiveness of using a strike bezel as a weapon, especially for a small flashlight.

Just something to consider while you are deciding.
 
I'm gonna go against the grain here. Streamlight Strion LED! Or Inova T4/T5, maybe even T3. Ummm...surefires are also great but I don't know that much about them.
 
Thank you all for the suggestions. After doing the research on them I am pretty confident that I will buy the Jetbeam RRT-0. It suits my EDC needs very well, and should work well as backup with my Fenix TK40 when doing Search and Rescue.

Now to find the funds. :laughing:
 
I purchased a rrt-0 recently.

It is a great light.

I bought the AA extender, but I'll rarely ever use it. The reduced size of the light + the added increase in intensity while running cr123's makes the light that much better.

I don't know if you ever intend on using cr123's, but if you do I would advise looking on the web for batteries. I picked up some for around 5x's cheaper than what I paid at a retail store.
 
I purchased a rrt-0 recently.

It is a great light.

I bought the AA extender, but I'll rarely ever use it. The reduced size of the light + the added increase in intensity while running cr123's makes the light that much better.

I don't know if you ever intend on using cr123's, but if you do I would advise looking on the web for batteries. I picked up some for around 5x's cheaper than what I paid at a retail store.

I'm in the same boat. My AA extender is in my truck with a spare L91 (along with a spare RCR123!)

I also bought 10 123's online just to have on hand in case SHTF and my RCR's go dead.
 
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