need flashlight suggestions

[cryway2]

Hello everyone,
I'm hoping maybe you all can help me figure out what a good flashlight would be. Ive read through quite a bit of the posts requesting flashlight recommendations but none of them seemed to clear things up for me. Maybe you all can help. I'm wanting a good pocket sized flashlight that runs off aa or AAA batteries. I'm not picky on whether it takes multiple batteries or one. I just want it to take easily replaced and not expensive batteries. I would like it to have a high lumen (like 100+) and a low setting, strobe and sos are a plus but not required. I want something that can easily be carried in a pocket. The ability to add a lanyard is a plus as is tail stand, with the lanyard being preferable to tail standing. The light will be mainly used for everyday life like finding lost items in the dark, reading at night, going to the car, etc but it needs to have the output for being able to use to locate children outdoors at night or other situation when a brighter light may be needed. I dont care about brands or battery times (as long as it takes aa or aaa batteries) , although longer run times are a plus. Looks dont matter. Twisty, click or tail click are all OK. I need something very reliable and preferably without a flickering beam. Im ok with a new or used flashlight as long as it is dependable. So if a better flashlight can be found for cheaper on eBay or somewhere I'm fine with that. It is vital that it work when those moments arise that i need a light now. Now heres where the hard part comes in. I'm a single mom of four children, a couple with medical issues and special
needs, on a very limited income. My budget maxes out at about 50.00 and even at that
price range it will require several months of saving to buy. Right now I carry a 3.00 Walmart life
gear on me just about all the time with two key chain lights on my keys. So far they are working
well enough but I would like to find something better and use these as back up lights as opposed to my main light. I appreciate any suggestions you can give.

 

[LEDninja]

AAA
- Fenix LD01 ~$35
Mid - 26 Lumens - 3 hr. 8 min.
Low - 3 Lumens - 27 hr.
High - 72 Lumens - 1 hr. 28 min.
- foursevens Preon P1 $39
Low: 1.8 lumens, 23 hrs / Medium: 8.5 lumens, 6 hrs / High: 70 lumens, 0.8 hrs

AA
- Fenix E11 ~$27
105 lumens - 1 hr. 28 min.
23 lumens - 8 hours 23 minutes.
- foursevens Mini MA $39
Low: 2.7 lumens, 60 hrs / Medium: 25 lumens, 8 hrs / High: 90 lumens, 1.3 hrs

2AA may be too long for you to carry around all the time so may not be suitable as an EDC.
- Mini Mag 2 Cell AA LED Flashlight ~$21
77 lumens and 25% 10 hours - 31 hours
- Maglite 2AA Mini Mag Pro+ LED Flashlight, ~$29
245 lumens and 25% 2 hours - 27 hours
(Maglite 2AA Mini Mag Pro is single mode 2 hour 30 min.)
Get the blister pack which comes with a holster. The gift box does not.
- Fenix E21 ~$35 (no holster indicated)
High: 150 lumens, 2 hours 15 minutes
Low: 48 lumens, 11 hours

 

[dealgrabber2002]

Quark AA xpg r5 from fourseven. you can get it for around ~$35. It reliable and has 10 yrs. warranty

 

[yoyoman]

DQG AA or AAA ~$30
- Stainless Steel Twisty: very durable and it has an split ring for a lanyard and still tail stands
- Magnet or glow ring on the tail: the magnet can be very useful
- The AAA is very small
- UI is low>high, no blinky modes

Olight i3 or i3S ~$22 - $26
- The i3S is the new model and has a little more output. You may find a good price for the i3 since it is the old model (still a good light)
- AAA

Tank007 E09 ~$15
- AAA
- More throwy than the others, IMO

L3 Illumination L10 ~$20
- AAA
- XP-G2 emmitter is bright
- Available in 4 mode LL>L>M>H
- Don't get the white - it is paint and chips, the other colors are fine
- A little nubby thing on the end and you do a lanyard and still tailstand

 

[cryway2]

Thank you for all the recommendations. I have been looking at some of the lights you all mentioned. Can you answer a question on battery usage for me? If it says it runs on NiMH or alkaline what exactly does that mean? I saw that on a couple of the fenix lights. I'm not sure if it was on the ones suggested here or others as I was just looking around there sight, not really paying attention to which light just trying to get a fell for there lights. I know what alkaline are but what are niMH batteries? And if it says alkaline or NiMH does that mean it can't be used with lithium or rechargables?

 

[Rosoku Chikara]

I know what alkaline are but what are niMH batteries? And if it says alkaline or NiMH does that mean it can't be used with lithium or rechargables?

1) NiMH batteries are a very common rechargeable battery. Even NiMH batteries come in many "flavors," but the biggest difference is whether or not they are "Low Self Discharge" (LSD) or not.

If they are LSD they are sold in stores "ready to go" (pre-charged) and they will also hold a good charge for a very long time (couple years?) even if the battery is left unattended for a long time. There are many different LSD batteries available, but most on this forum seem to agree that Eneloops are the best.

If you get non-LSD NiMH rechargable batteries, you must charge them before you use them. And, you will likely find that your flashlight is dead (or very close to being dead) if you have left it unattended for even a fairly short time (even less than 1 year).

My personal advice would be to "invest" in Eneloops. They are likely to be more expensive, but you will be getting what you pay for. I believe they are well worth the cost.

2) "Lithium" can mean 2 different things:

a) There are non-rechargable Lithium batteries that, while rather expensive, offer excellent performance characteristics and run at about 1.5 volts. (As you probably know, 1.5 volts is what Alkalines are rated at, and the NiMH rechargable batteries mentioned above are also in this range... although a bit lower voltage. So, this kind of Lithium battery, NiMH and Alkaline batteries can all be used interchangeably, at least in most applications.)

b) Then there are rechargeable Li-Ion batteries that run at about 4 volts. (Some flashlights can "accept" this higher voltage, and others will be instantly destroyed.) Li-Ion batteries can be dangerous, so I suggest you "study-up" some before attempting to use them.

3) Alkaline batteries are fine for some uses, but many on this forum call them "Alkaleaks" because they often end up leaking inside your flashlight and potentially destroying it.

Personally, I think the quality of Alkaline batteries in the USA must have declined over the past few years, because I don't recall having that many leaks from Alkalines in years past. (And, since I now live in Japan, I still don't see much evidence of leaking Alkalines over here.) But, if you spend good money on a flashlight, be wary of using Alkalines.

Also, I believe there are some performance issues with Alkaline batteries. Others on this forum can tell you more, but you are likely to achieve better performance (brighter flashlight) from Eneloop rechargeables than from Alkalines.

 

[cryway2]

Thank you. I've read just enough posts to understand that there are lots of battery choices and to know that given my current situation I prefer to stick with standard batteries and to stay away from the more dangerous batteries but I was still very confused on what eneloops, NiMH, etc were. I learned about alkaline the hard way last month. I had batteries that leaked in a fan that wound up being a rather unpleasant ordeal, which unfortunately repeated every time I changed the batteries. I won't ever be putting alkaline in anything I value or depend on again.

 

[scsmith]

I'll give you a bit more info. Alkaline batteries, besides their leakage issues, can't supply the current that other battery chemistries can supply. Current ( typically measured in Amps) x Voltage = Power (typically measured in Watts). NiMH is an abbreviation for Nickel Metal Hydride. NiMH is the standard chemistry for rechargeable batteries intended to replace for alkalines. NiMH can handle much higher current draw than alkaline, and will therefor perform much better in devices like high powered flashlights.

Not all NiMH are created equal, as already noted. The Sanyo Eneloop remains the best NiMH at retaining a charge. They actually aren't that expensive - about the same price as any other NiMH battery - and they're readily available online. Luckily there are some Duracell NiMH batteries that are just relabeled Eneloops, and you can find them in most major retailers like Target and Wal-Mart. There are two versions of the Duracell LSD NiMH batteries though. You want to look for the ones that are made in Japan and have the white material at the very top surrounding the positive terminal. These are the ones you want, the so called Dura-Loops. I think I paid $10 or $12 for a four pack of AAs at Target the last time I bought them.

I wouldn't entirely rule out Lithium batteries either. With the 10+ year shelf life of lithium primaries they're great for long term storage for emergency use. A pack of Energizer Lithium AAs stashed in the nightstand is a good low cost emergency prep.

 

[cryway2]

Thank you for the suggestions. I will try to remember to look for the Duracell eneloops the next time I go shopping. Can they be charged on a regular (energizer I think) battery charger? I already have one of those. As for lithium I've never had a bad experience with them. I've run quite a few of them in a digital camera and they have always worked great. I have no problems with using them unless there's something about them I dont know?

 

[scsmith]

I'm pretty sure Energizer has only made NiMH rechargeables, so your charger should work fine with the Dura-loops. Just check the info labeled on the back of the charger.

The only big issues with lithium primaries are mixing batteries from different packages, and putting previously used batteries into a high current draw device. The result from either is that the capacities are often unequal, so the weaker cell gets worked harder trying to keep up. As lithium batteries are used they do release typically harmless gasses. When you have unbalanced cells the weaker cell that's getting worked harder will heat up excessively and release excessive amounts of gasses. In most devices this isn't a huge deal because things like digital cameras (unless they're highly water resistant) don't have tightly sealed battery compartments, and they aren't constructed very ruggedly when compared to something like a flashlight. However, even inexpensive aluminum body flashlights are pretty tough because the threaded heads and tailcaps form a strong hold. They're also typically sealed pretty tightly with o-rings for water resistance. What this leads to is the excess gasses and excess heat from an overworked cell being trapped in a confined space, until the pressure builds up to the point that the flashlight literally explodes either from gas pressure or heat igniting the lithium batteries.

The benefit is that lithium batteries offer long run times, hold a charge very well, and are typically very stable. They're safe as long as you exercise reasonable care. Just be aware of those minor precautions and you'll be fine. Lithium batteries are used in rough conditions all over the world by the US and other militaries in hand held and weapon mounted lights. I'm a USAF veteran, so trust me: If it can be broken, or used dangerously then troops will find a way to do it. If lithium batteries were really dangerous the US and other Western militaries would have replaced them with something else long ago.

 

[Rosoku Chikara]

The only big issues with lithium primaries are mixing batteries from different packages, and putting previously used batteries into a high current draw device. The result from either is that the capacities are often unequal, so the weaker cell gets worked harder trying to keep up. As lithium batteries are used they do release typically harmless gasses. When you have unbalanced cells the weaker cell that's getting worked harder will heat up excessively and release excessive amounts of gasses.

Thanks for this information about primary Lithium cells, scsmith. It was news to me. I had never realized that there were any potential problems at all associated with non-rechargeable Lithium batteries.

Of course, we all know about the potential risks of rechargeable Li-Ion batteries, and even that risk is probably rather "overblown." (Particularly by me, especially when trying to "initiate" newbies into the concepts.)

But as you say, "even inexpensive aluminum body flashlights are pretty tough because the threaded heads and tailcaps form a strong hold. They're also typically sealed pretty tightly with o-rings for water resistance."

So, that's why I feel flashlights are an "uniquely" dangerous application for Li-Ion; since, in essence, you are carrying around a potential "pipebomb" in your pocket.

 

[scsmith]

R. Chikara, I'm glad the info was helpful to you. I do need to further emphasize that most mass market flashlights don't work lithium primaries hard enough to generate any significant heat nor gasses. Even most stock Surefires are balanced between output and run time, and aren't driven that hard. I watched guys scrounge batteries from mixed sources while I was deployed overseas (before I knew better), and never saw a problem. I was also a Comm-Electronics tech in the Air Force, and as such we had better access to batteries than most. I can only imagine how common mixing batteries was for grunts outside the wire in Iraq and Afghanistan. If it was causing flashlights to catch fire or explode we absolutely would have been notified via safety protocols. Although I never saw mixed lithium primaries cause a problem in areas where they were heavily used (work night shift in Iraq and you'll quickly invest in a good light), I'd never mix batteries knowing what I know now.

Also, CPF is a specialty forum, and many of the lights discussed here are not even close to being mass market. Even some of the inexpensive lights seen here are driven pretty hard. Most of the manufacturers / modders / custom builders do a good job of advising what batteries are safe to use in those lights / with their mods. For example, a $15 Solarforce host with a $35 P60 drop-in isn't expensive. There are many P60 drop-ins sold here that have the LED driven at max or even over driven. Again, the folks selling those do a good job of stating what batteries are needed to handle those kinds of current draws; so, the end user just needs to do as they advise.

I'm with you on the issue of the dangers of lithium batteries often being overblown. Most of the folks reading and posting here are probably doing so from a laptop computer. Laptops use a battery pack containing four to eight large, high capacity, rechargeable lithium cells. I plug my laptop into a good surge protector (an UPS actually) to protect it from being damaged. It never crosses my mind (until writing this post) that my laptop could be dangerous, because the potential danger is so minimized. If lithium batteries were really that dangerous there would be government and industry association mandated warnings all over laptops. Like you, I do think we need to be aware though, so we can avoid any potential problems.

 

[cryway2]

Thank you for all this wonderful information. I was unaware of most of it. For about a year now I have mostly used rechargables in higher drawing devices (like a digital camera) and alkaline in anything else. Not only that but I bought cheaper alkaline, which is probably why my 8 d cell fan leaked to dripping point with every battery change. When I use lithium batteries I generally reuse them in lower drawing devices like remote controls after they no longer power the camera. I will be very careful doing that from now on.
As for flashlights of the lights listed in previous posts do any of them have a warranty? Where are the best places to buy flashlights? Should I go to the company sights or is there an online store that sells then cheaper (in general)?

 

[reppans]

Li-ion batts in consumer electronics are safe, since they come with their own dedicated charger and internal circuitry to make it idiot-proof and ensure the device cannot be over charged/discharged, which we know destabilizes the chemistry, and that's when the cell becomes dangerous. With flashlight batts it's up to the human to use a proper charger and monitor with a DMM, and we all know where that leads. Protection circuits in the battery greatly add to the safety, but nobody should rely on what amounts to cheap $0.04 circuit, when handling a potential pipebomb.

I don't claim to be an expert, but my understanding (someone should chime in and correct me if wrong) is that danger of a Lithium battery flame venting is when it actually being CHARGED - not so much from working too hard, or being depleted too fast on its discharge cycle. So if a Li-ion rechargeable battery has been destabilized by over charge/discharge, it should not be a risk using in a single cell flashlight though its discharge cycle. It becomes a great risk, however, anytime this destabilized cell is put back in a charger, hence all the warnings on monitoring Li-ion charge cycles. In multi-cell configs, in series, the risk is that the weakest cell gets driven down past zero volts, and actually starts CHARGING in reverse polarity from the stronger batteries. The greater the cell imbalance, the greater the power behind the reverse charge and potential for flame venting. I am not aware of explosions in single cell lights.

Lastly, in terms of Lithium primaries, the 3V CR123s chemistry (Lithium Manganese Dioxide LiMnO2) is one know to flame vent under the above charge conditions. The 1.5V AA L91 Lithiums (Lithium Iron Disulfide LiFeS2) are a different animal, and I am not aware of reports of them exploding.

 

[reppans]

As for flashlights of the lights listed in previous posts do any of them have a warranty? Where are the best places to buy flashlights? Should I go to the company sights or is there an online store that sells then cheaper (in general)?

Cryway, I'll second Dealgrabber's suggestion on Quark AA, particularly if you are interested in warranty/CS. Foursevens has a 10 warranty (industry standard is 2) and about the best US-based HQ and Customer Service (industry standard is to ship back to Asia) in the price range. This is also one of the most versatile lights made and will fully support any battery chemistry (once you get comfortable with them) you can stuff into tube, has ~ 2 weeks of emergency runtime on its ultra efficient moonlight mode and can even efficiently run AAAs and AAAAs (from 9Vs) at low lumens in a pinch using a AAA>AA adaptor. You can also get optional battery tubes for running 2AAs, CR123, etc. They currently running a 20% off holiday weekend sale on their website.

 

[scsmith]

When I use lithium batteries I generally reuse them in lower drawing devices like remote controls after they no longer power the camera. I will be very careful doing that from now on.

You're fine draining lithium AAs in a remote control. A remote uses so little power that you don't need to worry about unbalanced lithiums in it.

As for flashlights of the lights listed in previous posts do any of them have a warranty? Where are the best places to buy flashlights? Should I go to the company sights or is there an online store that sells then cheaper (in general)?

FourSevens lights are made in China, but the company is based in Atlanta, Ga. They carry a ten year warranty, and should you need anything you'll get an American English speaking person on the phone if you call them. Olight recently merged operations with FourSevens, but I'm not sure how that affects Olight's warranty and CS. Fenix lights carry a warranty and they have many US dealers offering great CS. I'm not sure about the other brands listed, but here are several China based manufacturers that still maintain a good customer service presence over www.cpfmarketplace.com. There are also quite a few CPF supporting dealers over on the marketplace. They have good prices to start with, and most of them offer further discounts for CPF members - just check out the Dealer's Corner - http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/forumdisplay.php?13-Dealer-s-Corner.

 

[cryway2]

Thank you all for all of the great info on flashlights and batteries. Is the tank 007 a good flashlight? Does the light flicker? It is vital for me that the light not flicker so that it won't induce seizures. Where is the best place to get the tank?

 

[Philip2]

Thank you all for all of the great info on flashlights and batteries. Is the tank 007 a good flashlight? Does the light flicker? It is vital for me that the light not flicker so that it won't induce seizures. Where is the best place to get the tank?

You should find a flashlight without strobe mode, because strobe means quick flickering.

 

[Philip2]

Is the tank 007 a good flashlight? Does the light flicker? It is vital for me that the light not flicker so that it won't induce seizures. Where is the best place to get the tank?

Link removed as per the banner at the top of the page
Why has my link been removed? - Norm

I know nothing about the quality of Tank007 flashlights.

I wish you all the best with your sorrow and challenging situation.

 

[Philip2]

You can also find a second hand flashlight on Ebay or on other websites for second hand market. It would be the safest there to buy from someone in your town, so you can inspect the flashlight before you pay.