Need some tips on a search and rescue flashlight

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Bodis

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Feb 10, 2013
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I´m going to invest in a new flashlight that is going to funktion mainly as a search and rescue. Right now I have a LED Lenser hocus focus but looking for a more powerful light with better throw. I´m pretty novice in this field and need some help in this jungle. The environment I´m gonna be in is forest with some small/medium-sized fields (se the picture at the bottom for an example).


This is what I´m looking for
*Good throw
*It has to be sturdy and have to be able to take heavy rain as well.
*I want to have different modes for use at close range and use at long distance.
*Not to heavy, the LED Lenser X14 I have been looking at is slightly to heavy (but maybe worth it?) I prefer under 8 ounce with batteries.
*Not more than 200 dollar.


I have been looking at the following flashlights:


Foursevens Maelstrom MMS
Foursevens Maelstrom MM-X
Foursevens Quark Turbo QB2L-X
Olight M20S-G2 Warrior
Olight M21-X Warrior
LED Lenser X14
LED Lenser M14X



And the more I look the more confused I get, so please help me to choose. As I said good throw but I want the spill as well when I´m lightening up the garden looking for intruders.


 
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This thread belongs more in the "Recommend Me a Light" forum...

You should also consider the Dereelight DBS - a nice thrower for a good price. There are lots of review on it here on CPF.
 
I think this one would work just fine, SureFire G2x Pro. There are variations on this model, do a search.

G2X™ Fire Rescue Pro Dual-Output LED

Link removed as per the banner at the top of the page - Norm
 
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I have an old Surefire G2 is it a big differenc between those?

G2® Nitrolon® Single-Output Incandescent


Link removed as per the banner at the top of the page - Norm
 
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Quoted Link removed as per the banner at the top of the page - Norm


Triple the output and it has two lighting modes. It's also an LED light with better runtimes.


[TABLE="class: data-table, width: 320"]
[TR="class: first odd"]
[TH="class: label, colspan: 4"]Output / Runtime -- White Light[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR="class: even"]
[TD]High[/TD]
[TD="class: data, align: right"]200[/TD]
[TD="class: data"][/TD]
[TD="class: data last"]lumens / 2.0 hours[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TD]Low[/TD]
[TD="class: data, align: right"]15[/TD]
[TD="class: data"][/TD]
[TD="class: data last"]lumens / 45.0 hours[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: even"]
[TH="class: label"]Tactical Runtime*[/TH]
[TD="class: data, align: right"]2[/TD]
[TD="class: data"].0[/TD]
[TD="class: data last"]hours[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TH="class: label"]Length[/TH]
[TD="class: data, align: right"]5[/TD]
[TD="class: data"].2[/TD]
[TD="class: data last"]inches[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: even"]
[TH="class: label"]Bezel Diameter[/TH]
[TD="class: data, align: right"]1[/TD]
[TD="class: data"].25[/TD]
[TD="class: data last"]inches[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: odd"]
[TH="class: label"]Weight w/Batteries[/TH]
[TD="class: data, align: right"]4[/TD]
[TD="class: data"].4[/TD]
[TD="class: data last"]ounces[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="class: last even"]
[TH="class: label"][/TH]
[TD="class: data, align: right"][/TD]
[TD="class: data"][/TD]
[TD="class: data"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
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Triple the output and it has two lighting modes. It's also an LED light with better runtimes.

Hmmm worth thinking at, it seems like if I drop this one it can take the impact better because it´s of plastic and therefor lighter and softer.
 
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You coul put a 200 - 300 lumen dropin into you g2 if it has the aluminum head. Otherwise the g2x pro is the way to go.

Oligh or Quark maelstrom should do nicely too
 
I would look at a G2X Pro in yellow (320lm high), P2X Fury dual-output (more throw, and more output on high, at 500lm), and Streamlight Protac HL (600lm high). All will be well within your budget and, the harder one, your weight limit. The Protac HL has some minor programability, as well. All have a reasonable low, bright high, and get fair run-time on high (1.25-2hrs minimum).

You will end up getting SFs and/or SLs later, if you don't do it now. Just take the plunge now, instead of having to learn the hard way, like the rest of us.
 
Hmmm worth thinking at, it seems like if I drop this one it can take the impact better because it´s of plastic and therefor lighter and softer.
The current non-fire and rescue version is 50% brighter, so there's very little reason, IMO, to get one of the fire and rescue version, unless you simply have to have orange, or have to have reflective facets. Make sure, wherever you look to buy one, that you're getting the newest versions.

Don't get rid of that old G2, though. You can make it into a nice torch, even given the limitations of a plastic host.
 
I would look at a G2X Pro in yellow (320lm high), P2X Fury dual-output (more throw, and more output on high, at 500lm), and Streamlight Protac HL (600lm high). All will be well within your budget and, the harder one, your weight limit. The Protac HL has some minor programability, as well. All have a reasonable low, bright high, and get fair run-time on high (1.25-2hrs minimum).

You will end up getting SFs and/or SLs later, if you don't do it now. Just take the plunge now, instead of having to learn the hard way, like the rest of us.

I´m worried that 500 plus lumen is to bright on say 10-20 yards and the low mode is to low on that distance dont you think?
 
I think I'm too highly biased on such matters to be able to make such a decision for you. It depends on a lot of factors. Given that concern, though, you probably don't want the Fury.

SF and SL both make well-built, well-designed flashlights, including getting most of the little things right. So, I would generally err towards them than most other brands, when the prices aren't significantly different.

But, as to making your choice, that would be going well beyond my realm of knowledge, experience, and preference.

That said, the 500lm shouldn't be much of a concern (except for the battery life), but the greater lux should, from the bigger focused reflector. The more throw you get, the more goes into the spot, and that brightness is what your eyes will adjust to, so having it be too bright can be disadvantageous, sometimes. It's not the lumens, but the lux. With more spill, a wider spot, and/or a softer spot, you will have less light per square unit area. This will result in less throw, but being able to see more at nearer distances. The relative difference between spot and spill brightness make for what you can see in the spill much more than the absolute output. If the spot is always going to be pointed out to some distance, then it can be much brighter without negating the spill's effectiveness. But, that same beam close up will cause you to adjust to the spot, and then be able to make out very little in the spill.

There is no free lunch. If you want it all, you will need a torch that's bigger and heavier. In a smaller package, you will generally have to choose a compromise between having a spotlight and having a floodlight, or use separate torches.
 
What's the difference between Surefire G2X and 6PX I can´t find any?
 
I think I'm too highly biased on such matters to be able to make such a decision for you. It depends on a lot of factors. Given that concern, though, you probably don't want the Fury.

SF and SL both make well-built, well-designed flashlights, including getting most of the little things right. So, I would generally err towards them than most other brands, when the prices aren't significantly different.

But, as to making your choice, that would be going well beyond my realm of knowledge, experience, and preference.

That said, the 500lm shouldn't be much of a concern (except for the battery life), but the greater lux should, from the bigger focused reflector. The more throw you get, the more goes into the spot, and that brightness is what your eyes will adjust to, so having it be too bright can be disadvantageous, sometimes. It's not the lumens, but the lux. With more spill, a wider spot, and/or a softer spot, you will have less light per square unit area. This will result in less throw, but being able to see more at nearer distances. The relative difference between spot and spill brightness make for what you can see in the spill much more than the absolute output. If the spot is always going to be pointed out to some distance, then it can be much brighter without negating the spill's effectiveness. But, that same beam close up will cause you to adjust to the spot, and then be able to make out very little in the spill.

There is no free lunch. If you want it all, you will need a torch that's bigger and heavier. In a smaller package, you will generally have to choose a compromise between having a spotlight and having a floodlight, or use separate torches.

Okay thanks for the informative answer I'll think I will go with the 320 lumen.
 
The Quark Turbo-X will reach further than any of the Surefires you mentioned due to the larger head & reflector. Quarks have more modes and\or have adjustable settings. High tech stuff. That said the head is a bit bulky when on your belt.

The Malkoff lights are made in the USA by a real flashoholic. Built like a tank.

Surefire makes excellent lights, pricy. Simple, dependable but no adjusting brightness. If you are looking for light weight the G2X is made of Nitrolon that is super light and strong, doubt you would ever break it.
A Nitrolon G2X is much lighter than a Aluminum 6PX. The heads are the same (aluminum) on both lights.
 
What's the difference between Surefire G2X and 6PX I can´t find any?
The G series are plastic body, the rest are aluminum body. The aluminum body will handle severe temperatures better, and won't get brittle from UV exposure, which are going to be easy to avoid for most people in the first place. "Severe," like leaving it in a dark car all day all summer, or carrying it around Alaska. UV damage to such plastics generally takes years of sitting outside. So, unless you already know to be worried about extreme conditions, any situation where the plastic one breaks will also be one where the aluminum would irreparably be warped, and you'll be glad your hand wasn't on it :).
 
The G series are plastic body, the rest are aluminum body. The aluminum body will handle severe temperatures better, and won't get brittle from UV exposure, which are going to be easy to avoid for most people in the first place. "Severe," like leaving it in a dark car all day all summer, or carrying it around Alaska. UV damage to such plastics generally takes years of sitting outside. So, unless you already know to be worried about extreme conditions, any situation where the plastic one breaks will also be one where the aluminum would irreparably be warped, and you'll be glad your hand wasn't on it :).

Ok thanx.
 
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