need suggestion....help

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flashlightDR

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Does anyone have a idea... if I want to install a 1-watt LS on a flat surface, such as on top of a wooden box; what can I do for some type of cover or optics. It seems that it would be easy to drill a hole and attach a heat sink with a LS attached....but what what do I put on top?? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!
 
Well, what will you be using this light for?

Do you need throw? Or, a nice flood of light?
 
My son and I, recently make a "hurricane Light" it has 5 LED on the top of a wooden box with 8-D's driving it at 6 volts (we used 100-Ohlm resisters). It's great, (the run-time must be into the 100's of hours) but I would like to see if we could use a 1-Watter on the top. It seems that it would be easy to put it in but I have know idea on what kind of optics I could use or some way to cover it up. Any thoughts?
 
You might want a 1W LS SE (side emitter) and a McFlood to beam it forward while still having a flood.

Dan
 
if it's to be used as an area light, then it would probably be best to use a 1w hd with no optics at all.

you could run it dd from 3aa batteries (or use a little bit of resistance if you prefer...), and make sure to use a huge aluminum slab for heatsinking.
 
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logicnerd411 said:
You might want a 1W LS SE (side emitter) and a McFlood to beam it forward while still having a flood.

Dan

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Yes, but how to install the McFlood?
 
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Rothrandir said:
if it's to be used as an area light, then it would probably be best to use a 1w hd with no optics at all.

you could run it dd from 3aa batteries (or use a little bit of resistance if you prefer...), and make sure to use a huge aluminum slab for heatsinking.

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Don't you think that would look bad...not to mention the LS would be exposed to damage?
 
[ QUOTE ]
flashlightDR said:
[ QUOTE ]
logicnerd411 said:
You might want a 1W LS SE (side emitter) and a McFlood to beam it forward while still having a flood.

Dan

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, but how to install the McFlood?

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I dunno, maybe just epoxy the darn thing to the side /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Or maybe we can all brainstorm more ideas if we had pictures of the light... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

Dan
 
I am planning on making basically the same setup.

I have a 12V 24 Amp Hour batt, that Im building a wood enclosure for. It will have 2 - 1W heads, on 2 loc-lins. So you can direct the light where ever you want it.
The 2 heads will probably have mcflood reflectors. That way they make a nice flood of light.

I might use a dimmer knob also, so I can just the right amount of light.
 
How about epoxying just the head portion of a flashlight onto the flat surface. Then you could remove the bezel to access the emitter if you need to. Or if the spacing isn't perfect, cut the head to the right height. It seems to me that you just need something to cover the emitter and heatsink. I've played with this method on a past project, worked out fine.
Darryl
 
i don't t hink it would look that bad....

maybe if you used some sort of clear or slightly frosted dome around it to protect it...

i've used bare emitters in arealight applications, and have found the results very desirable /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif
 
The HD LS does make for a good area light, I've unscrewed the head off my modded 3aa Legend during the blackout as an area light, worked great on lighting an entire room. Although, I would't mind using something to soften the beam a little as it produced abit of glare for reading.
 
Hurricane light suggestions

If you've no objection to the naked 5 mm parts (and I don't either), what's the problem with the bare star lens? You could counter bore the box from the inside ending in a .320 or so dia hole for the bezel of the LED to fit.

I too have been fiddling with the concept, but have a different perspective. First off, unregulated drive seems entirely wrong to me. It goes against the very nature of a hurricane light. You want light levels you can control and known run time (like the kerosene lamp offers). I don't think it needs to be all that bright and cosmetics interest me only a little. My current solution (pun intended) has a 4 AA holder and HD star *inside* a clear plastic snap top box from Tap Plastics about 2.75 square and 1.35 high. A rotary switch through the side controls the current regulator with levels at a bit under 2 mA, 8 mA, 30 mA and 120 mA. There's an off at each end. Even on high, the star's heat sink is plenty at this current level, it's bright enough for my needs, typically at 30 mA (the sort of level you get from an Ultra or Arc AAA). Real continuous run times are 1000 hours, 200 plus, 50 and a bit over 10. Although I've never measured the 1000, something always 'crops up' in the *month* at this level involved, I've done quite a number of 30 mA (50 hour) and 120 mA (10) runs and a few 8 mA ones without any problems. I'm quite confident of the 'overnight', 'two day' and 'all week' settings at least. I'm pretty sure the 'one month' one works as well.

Any such light without regulation is sure to be at the right level only at on point in time. Otherwise it's too bright (wasting energy) or too dim (pretty useless) for the task at hand. Fixed regulation simply limits what you can do with the light. The only proper solution seems adjustable regulation. Steps make more sense to me than continuous for a lot of reasons.

An 'protected outside mount' I'd been thinking of for another might be of interest to you. A large bore washer (or two) with a couple of smaller screw holes drilled through it would space a round Lexan cover up. The cover has mating screw holes and screws go through it, and the washers to the mounting surface. A bit of seal would make it waterproof (my use is outside, in an exposed spot). Putting a metal disk on the bottom of the 'sandwich' would give you good heatsinking out to the washers if you want to push for extra light (at the expense of the battery).

Doug Owen
 
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