New Incan Fan

[KevinL]

Let's not argue over the LED vs incan thing :) points taken on both sides I'm sure :)

Some people see better in incandescent light, others like myself are ok with both. I personally have been lured back to the LED world by the new generation of multicore LEDs but still refuse to give up my ROP.

Sailboat, don't worry about it - nothing wrong with wanting an incan. Lots of good recommendations have been made. It's time to break out the Paypal and start buying :D :D

Eventually you'll have so many lights that you will just leave them on board for whenever you need them :devil: no Maglite will be safe from the various exotic bulbs we have researched over the years. WA1185, WA1111, 1274, the list goes on.

 

[Sailboat]

Let's not argue over the LED vs incan thing :) points taken on both sides I'm sure :)

Some people see better in incandescent light, others like myself are ok with both. I personally have been lured back to the LED world by the new generation of multicore LEDs but still refuse to give up my ROP.

Sailboat, don't worry about it - nothing wrong with wanting an incan. Lots of good recommendations have been made. It's time to break out the Paypal and start buying :D :D

Eventually you'll have so many lights that you will just leave them on board for whenever you need them :devil: no Maglite will be safe from the various exotic bulbs we have researched over the years. WA1185, WA1111, 1274, the list goes on.

Not counting the Gerber experiment, I've already dropped $140 on incans.

Fastest I've started dropping money outside of boat repairs. :oops:


I'm happy. My 6P should be in tomorrow!

 

[KevinL]

Not counting the Gerber experiment, I've already dropped $140 on incans.

Fastest I've started dropping money outside of boat repairs. :oops:


I'm happy. My 6P should be in tomorrow!

Keep going. Flashlights are like an endless money bucket. I have remained dormant and away from CPF for a few years apart from an occasional appearance. This is the first time I'm 'seriously' back - and they have already made me spend a ton of money!

The ROP is one of the more affordable lights and price to lumens ratio is hard to beat :)

 

[Dioni]

I'm glad I'm not the only one. lovecpf

:twothumbs

In my work I've used incans too much in many florestal areas. I've never seen any LED beat them there.


... Yep, I use LED to other tasks requiring some better runtime although :whistle: only...

 

[Sailboat]

Keep going. Flashlights are like an endless money bucket. I have remained dormant and away from CPF for a few years apart from an occasional appearance. This is the first time I'm 'seriously' back - and they have already made me spend a ton of money!

The ROP is one of the more affordable lights and price to lumens ratio is hard to beat :)

Already digging around for turboheads.. Crap.

6P seems like a great platform in terms of the stuff you can slap on it!

The P60 style dropin variety is incredible.

On the list already.. Turbohead, battery extender, another EO-6, EO-9, Solarforce Lantern Head..Maybe some embellishing like an Orange boot, and I want a holster. And a lanyard ring.

Wow this is adding up fast.

LEDs will get me curious at some point I'm sure..

It's incredible. Once you've plunked down the $60 for a 6P, it's very cheap to go to other stuff, including an LED conversion.

That Solarforce is the same story, although I probably won't like it as much as the Surefire, as I'm VERY subjective, and just happen to prefer American made things. I guess they have more soul than their knockoffs. :ohgeez:

 

[ampdude]

I broke out the DMM and clocked the EO-9 at 2.4 amps.

Sounds like it's malfunctioning, the EO-9 should pull about 1.9A on new batteries.

 

[KevinL]

Sounds like it's malfunctioning, the EO-9 should pull about 1.9A on new batteries.

Hmm, that's interesting. Mine is one of the earliest EO-9 units, so perhaps there have been some subtle changes? Either way 2A is safe to run on 17500. The Surefire P91 and MN16 draw that amount of current too.

I note their website says CR123 compatible too, now.

 

[KevinL]

Already digging around for turboheads.. Crap.

6P seems like a great platform in terms of the stuff you can slap on it!

The P60 style dropin variety is incredible.

On the list already.. Turbohead, battery extender, another EO-6, EO-9, Solarforce Lantern Head..Maybe some embellishing like an Orange boot, and I want a holster. And a lanyard ring.

Wow this is adding up fast.

LEDs will get me curious at some point I'm sure..

It's incredible. Once you've plunked down the $60 for a 6P, it's very cheap to go to other stuff, including an LED conversion.

That Solarforce is the same story, although I probably won't like it as much as the Surefire, as I'm VERY subjective, and just happen to prefer American made things. I guess they have more soul than their knockoffs. :ohgeez:

The 6P is tremendously flexible. We call this the C-series or P-series platform. You can exchange accessories from any of the C-series Surefires as well, that's the beauty of a completely modular platform.

For the ultimate in Turboheads (in my opinion), try the awesome SRTH.
http://www.lpstactical.com/hd3t.htm

The SRTH is a rare (comparatively) turbohead with a 2.5" bezel, very lightweight aluminium design compared to KT1/KT2, smaller and more compact. Lexan window but has no problems withstanding a MN16 (225 lumen) going full blast - that's the way I run it. KT-series heads have regular Pyrex windows and are heavier and bulkier.

You can buy with or without a D3 body and various options, see the webpage for details. They supply it with the N2 lamp (105lu), I personally upgraded it to the MN16 - I like light and lots of it. MN16's are widely available.

The only downside is that the MN16 has an oval-ish hotspot instead of a 100% circle as it is not purpose-designed for the SRTH, but I've learned to live with it over the years :)


Edit: sorry, outdated information. LPS now offers a MN15 or MN16 lamp option at the bottom of the webpage. I bought mine years ago, some things do change :)

 

[ampdude]

Hmm, that's interesting. Mine is one of the earliest EO-9 units, so perhaps there have been some subtle changes? Either way 2A is safe to run on 17500. The Surefire P91 and MN16 draw that amount of current too.

I note their website says CR123 compatible too, now.

Yea, the IMR-9 should run fine on CR123A's also. As far as I remember the P91's and P61's I've always checked drew around 2.6A of current. I've had a couple difference EO-9's, so I don't think there was a design change, but we'd have to talk to Mark to be sure I guess. I just tried to draw the current on my IMR-9 and it ranged from starting out at 2.7 to ending at 2.19A after a few tries, I think my DMM is a failing right now too, that's weird.. Never had that problem before though.

 

[Sailboat]

The 6P is tremendously flexible. We call this the C-series or P-series platform. You can exchange accessories from any of the C-series Surefires as well, that's the beauty of a completely modular platform.

For the ultimate in Turboheads (in my opinion), try the awesome SRTH.
http://www.lpstactical.com/hd3t.htm

The SRTH is a rare (comparatively) turbohead with a 2.5" bezel, very lightweight aluminium design compared to KT1/KT2, smaller and more compact. Lexan window but has no problems withstanding a MN16 (225 lumen) going full blast - that's the way I run it. KT-series heads have regular Pyrex windows and are heavier and bulkier.

You can buy with or without a D3 body and various options, see the webpage for details. They supply it with the N2 lamp (105lu), I personally upgraded it to the MN16 - I like light and lots of it. MN16's are widely available.

The only downside is that the MN16 has an oval-ish hotspot instead of a 100% circle as it is not purpose-designed for the SRTH, but I've learned to live with it over the years :)


Edit: sorry, outdated information. LPS now offers a MN15 or MN16 lamp option at the bottom of the webpage. I bought mine years ago, some things do change :)

Bit out of the price range at this point, but I'll probably break down by the end of the week..

All this talk about LEDs has me curious..I would like to try them again, I don't think only my Quark and seeing various Fenix lights at work was a fair enough trial. I'm watching the marketplace, I'm hoping someone has a P60 style dropin LED they bought and never used that I can snag. I need a flashaholic next door neighbor who has parts laying around so I can just borrow them and try them. :whistle:

Now, for the next thing to plunk down more money on... Rechargeable batteries for the 6P. I can get a line on 3 volt RCR123A batteries through my job, so those will be my batteries of choice..

And I can use the really high quality charger at work, set inside a fiberglass case coated in fire retardant with it's own smoke detector circuit breaker! :nana:

 

[RobertM]

Hmm, that's interesting. Mine is one of the earliest EO-9 units, so perhaps there have been some subtle changes? Either way 2A is safe to run on 17500. The Surefire P91 and MN16 draw that amount of current too.

I note their website says CR123 compatible too, now.

The P91 draws 2.4-2.5A on 3xCR123 primary cells. On li-ion cells, it can draw up to 2.7A (voltage doesn't sag as much as CR123 cells)--WAY too much for 17500 cells. :poof:

 

[RobertM]

Bit out of the price range at this point, but I'll probably break down by the end of the week..

All this talk about LEDs has me curious..I would like to try them again, I don't think only my Quark and seeing various Fenix lights at work was a fair enough trial. I'm watching the marketplace, I'm hoping someone has a P60 style dropin LED they bought and never used that I can snag. I need a flashaholic next door neighbor who has parts laying around so I can just borrow them and try them. :whistle:

Now, for the next thing to plunk down more money on... Rechargeable batteries for the 6P. I can get a line on 3 volt RCR123A batteries through my job, so those will be my batteries of choice..

And I can use the really high quality charger at work, set inside a fiberglass case coated in fire retardant with it's own smoke detector circuit breaker! :nana:

I'm sure you are probably aware of this, but don't use any of the SF "6v" (i.e. P60) bulbs with your "3v" rechargeable cells. The "6V" lamps actually run around 5v due to CR123 voltage sag. A bulb such as the SF P90 would be safe to run on 2x 3.7v li-ion rechargeable because they normally run around 7.5v on 3xCR123 primary cells.

See this thread for learning how to put together safe incandescent combos:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536

On the topic of LEDs, there are a few emitters out there that are specifically high-CRI LEDs. They still aren't as warm as incans, but they do render colors quite well. I have always preferred incans over LEDs, own quite a few of both, but I must say, I am REALLY impressed with my fairly recent purchase of my HDS EDC High CRI flashlight. If I get some time, I can try taking some comparison pics for you showing a "normal" LED, a high-CRI LED, and an incandescent.

BTW, :welcome:

-Robert

 

[Sailboat]

I'm sure you are probably aware of this, but don't use any of the SF "6v" (i.e. P60) bulbs with your "3v" rechargeable cells. The "6V" lamps actually run around 5v due to CR123 voltage sag. A bulb such as the SP P90 would be safe to run on 3x 3.7v li-ion rechargeable because they normally run around 7.5v on 3xCR123 primary cells.

See this thread for learning how to put together safe incandescent combos:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536

On the topic of LEDs, there are a few emitters out there that are specifically High-CRI LEDs. They still aren't as warm as incans, but they do render colors quite well. I have always preferred incans over LEDs, own quite a few of both, but I must say, I am REALLY impressed with my fairly recent purchase of my HDS EDC High CRI flashlight. If I get some time, I can try taking some comparison pics for you showing a "normal" LED, a high-CRI LED, and an incandescent.

BTW, :welcome:

-Robert

I assumed with sag I would be okay with the P60 lamp, but I guess not! Oops!

Most of the RCR123As at work are like 3.2 volts, not the 3 volts they say on the cases. Hmm..Or do they say 3.7 and put out 3.2? I can't remember. Our batteries go into regulated equipment so, within reason, we don't really care how many volts they put out..:party:

Running the two 3.7 volt cells on a P90 makes a lot more sense, thank you so much!

 

[RobertM]

Sailboat,

As promised, I've taken some comparison pictures showing the differences between an incandescent, a normal "cool" LED, and a high-CRI LED. I posted them in the HDS EDC thread. You can view them here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3538133&postcount=363

-Robert

 

[Sailboat]

The high CRI indeed bested the incan.. Interesting!

 

[Brigadier]

The high CRI indeed bested the incan.. Interesting!

Um, well, depending on the white balance setting of the camera......

 

[Sailboat]

Um, well, depending on the white balance setting of the camera......

I was assuming the experiment was executed well enough to control that variable, that is leaving the WB set the same for all the pictures..

It wasn't terribly scientific a test either way, but it did demonstrate at least good CRI performance out of an LED.

The proper way to do this test is to compare the graphs from the RAW file of the originals to the RAW files from the different bulbs..

I hope they were taken in RAW!

 

[flashfiend]

The high CRI LED indeed does a good job of rendering color in the sample photos but I'm not sure if the amber color of the P60 is a good comparison. Can I see that comparison using a hotwire such as the WA1185 bulb.

 

[KiwiMark]

The high CRI LED indeed does a good job of rendering color in the sample photos but I'm not sure if the amber color of the P60 is a good comparison. Can I see that comparison using a hotwire such as the WA1185 bulb.

How much light do you get out of a high CRI LED? I would also like to see a comparison with a good hotwire, but I suspect that my hotwires not only have 100 CRI but also put out a LOT more light than the high CRI LEDs do. I have at least 5 incans that would put out over 1000 Lumen (at least 2 that would be >5000).

However I can see that for the lights you want to be smaller and more efficient like for EDC - high CRI LEDs are a good option.

 

[flashfiend]

It appears I may be getting 400-700 lumens otf of a nailbender sst-90 CRI 83. However, I don't have an IS to confirm. The tint is similar to what I can get out of my incans.