New Preon Clicky Tailcap Modification (DIY / different method)

[taylorID]

Hey all,


So we all know about the issues with the Preon clicky tailcap... the button sits up way too high and it turns on in your pocket. Bummer. To resolve that, there are basically two options... (1) take out the metal cap and have difficulty reaching the on/off button due to the depth, or (2) get Zodiac Engineering to cut down your clicky's ring to make it easier to reach down into with your finger. I was leaning toward the ZE option... however, they're a bit backed up at the moment and both methods have the exposed rubber boot, rather than utilizing the metal tail cap.


So I took apart my clicky tail cap, brought it out to the garage and worked it over with a grinder (removing height from the metal cap off of the bottom section, as well as slightly cutting down the height of the plastic on/off switch) and a mill bit (cutting down the metal nipple/indentation inside the metal cap). Added an o-ring to the screw on top ring (for height/click activation purposes... plus it helps with waterproofing a tiny bit too).


I'm happy to say, it is perfect. The button is nearly flush (doesn't turn on in my pocket), utilizes has the metal cap (protecting the rubber boot), works flawlessly, feels like stock, it tail stands(!), and most importantly, it was free for me to do.

 

[tobrien]

nice work! i didn't even know this mod was doable. good job bud and welcome to CPF

 

[taylorID]

Well, here's how it started. I wanted a AAA keychain light, with a pocket clip (in case I wanted to remove it from my keys), reasonably priced, made from titanium, with a simple UI, etc. Several other makes and models were considered, but I chose the Preon 1 Ti for many different reasons. Done, sorted.

I had already read about the issues with the clicky tailcap and how it basically sucks. So before I had even received my Preon and clicky tailcap in the mail, I was planning to send it off to Zodiac for the modification. As mentioned above, they're a bit busy lately with life and such. Totally understandable. I'm impatient though. So I ordered a second clicky tailcap (in case I made a mistake) and decided to do it myself, with a drill and a dremel. Turned out pretty well, I must say so myself. (I'll probably end up selling this modded screw-on ring to a board member if they want it)

But I still wasn't happy. As now I have this little titanium cap sitting on my desk, designed to protect the now exposed rubber boot. What I really wanted was to keep the titanium cap (for both protection and aesthetics) as well reduce the overall height of the switch so it wouldn't so easily activate by accident when in pocket. So the clicky went back under the knife. I will admit, this took me several hours, lots of grinding and remeasuring, test fitting, thinking, and trying different parts from the two clicky assemblies as well as the standard flat-back cap. Lots of head scratching and staring at parts. It may seem easy now, but when you're working with these tight tolerances, any mistake can ruin the project.

Here is what I did. Only use this as a guide, I will not provide specific measurements or instructions. This is all about finding the sweet spot, as there are five different components that affect the overall height of the switch. If you mess up one, it may be ruined. However, you could also tweak the other four components to make up for your mistake on the one. It's push/pull, give and take, finding a balance. Basically, this is up to you. It isn't too hard now that there are some basic instructions. In fact, I'm sure this can even be further improved... as long as we call it the "Taylor Clicky Mod" or something, hahah!

First things first, grind down the overall height of the tail cap by removing from the bottom. You want to remove a good bit, but still keep that "lip" which catches under the screw-on ring, keeping the cap from falling out.

Then, using a milling bit in my drill, I milled down the metal nipple inside the cap. Just a bit. Maybe I could've done more, I don't know. (See how it is all messed up inside, read below)

Take off the rubber boot. Grind down the overall height of the plastic on/off switch, just a bit. I don't have a "before" photo of this, just an after. Grind a little, then test, grind a little, then test. You're screwed if you grind off too much here.

Now, see that little lip/ring on the rubber boot? That's adding height. A seal will still be made without that lip, as the screw-on ring keeps the rubber boot firmly in place. So carefully trim off just that little lip/ring. I quickly trimmed this with the spare rubber boot I had, just for these photos for this post. So you can probably make a cleaner cut if you take your time.

Finally, I added one of the larger of the two spare O-rings to the screw-on ring. This adds an extra little bit of height to the ring, which essentially makes everything else lower. The O-ring even helps a bit with waterproofing, maybe. Screw it all back together.

Yes, it will tail stand. With a clicky with the cap.

Sometimes the cap will rise a bit. But not much. The reason being, the rubber boot was designed for the taller on/off switch (which you just ground down). So if it were possible to get a shorter rubber boot, it would always stay in there flush. Now, I even tried gluing the rubber boot's interior to the on/off switch, to keep it down and lower. I also tried gluing to top/exterior of the rubber boot inside of the metal cap, to keep it flush. I ended up needed to slice out the rubber boot from inside the modded cap as I messed up the boot's edge when I set it down near something sharp. So that's why the inside of the modded cap looks all messed up. Basically, if you have a shorter rubber boot, that has the exact same diameter on the bottom (for waterproofing), it would be perfection. And if you do, please send it to me free of charge!

Well, that's it. Happy modding. I'm sure you can knock this project out in less than an hour.