thedoc007
Flashlight Enthusiast
Spoken like a true troll! Thanks for your input!
Nitecore Flashlights: Are they durable?
- Thread starter radu191289
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Spoken like a true troll! Thanks for your input!
I only mentioned my EX10 as an example since it is the oldest Nitecore I've got . I also didn't have any issues with the newer lights (P25 , EA1, SRT3, MH2A and several others).
I did however experience issues with a Zebralight H51Fw , Fenix PD30, Olight M10 Maverick.The latter two were handled under warranty.
Like others have said, each brand has some faulty lights now and then. I don't feel Nitecore is a bad manufacturer.
Thanks for your reply. I am starting to feel I am probably one of the unluckiest person on earth. Maybe I should give their products another go and see how it goes.
Labrador72
Flashlight Enthusiast
Though I think Nitecore do not have one of the best QC and their build quality and finish may not be as good as other Chinese brand as Fenix, I have to admit that I've never had a problem with my Nitecore lights.
My first LED light was Nitecore Infinity Defender which I EDCed for two years and though is now relegated to a drawer, it still works fine.
I've had an several lights from their MT series for nearly a year now and though they are not the most used lights I have, I haven't had any problems with them either so far. I went for basic no-frill models with no (electronic) side switches or other fancy features which means the Nitecore lights I own have fewer parts that could potentially give problems or simply fail!
My first LED light was Nitecore Infinity Defender which I EDCed for two years and though is now relegated to a drawer, it still works fine.
I've had an several lights from their MT series for nearly a year now and though they are not the most used lights I have, I haven't had any problems with them either so far. I went for basic no-frill models with no (electronic) side switches or other fancy features which means the Nitecore lights I own have fewer parts that could potentially give problems or simply fail!
thegaunlet
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2014
- Messages
- 5
Here's a P12 driver that had failed at the solder joints indicated by the arrows. Seems like repeated pressing of the side button caused micro fractures on the (lead-free) solder joints. This was a very simple fix though i highly recommend you don't press too hard on the button
Next is an EC25. Water came in through the side button. Turned the copper green especially on the other side of the PCB. Non-repairable
Next is an MH25 with very poor workmanship on the driver:
So yes Nitecore is the least-reliable among the major chinese brands
Thanks to Overclocker for posting those pictures. I was about to get a Nitecore P12 for kicks when I saw it and realized that flaw. Yes we can't expect top notch quality at an average price but structural/design flaws immediately predisposes it to many problems.
That being said I have 2 SRT3s and 1 SRT5 that are durable IMHO. I do not baby them, have dropped them time and again. There're scratches and dings but they still work. The SRT ring seems well built and we've probably played with the ring more than we need to and show no signs of failing.
I really love the SRT UI and the compactness of the SRT3 and SRT5. Although the SRT5 isn't driven to 900+ Lumens we do get that extended runtime especially on 3400mAh (Nitecore rates 1hr 45 mins on 2600mAh).
Seems like I'll be sticking to the SRT3 and SRT5 for a long time.
An interesting thing is the SRT3 and SRT5 heads are lego-able so I bought adapters from cpfmarketplace for AAA, AA, 16340 to fit a 18650 form factor, put the SRT3 head on SRT5's body and you have a light that can handle AAA (10440), AA (14500), CR123 (16340) and 18650. Sure it's only 550 lumens max but the versatility is pretty sweet.
Only weird thing is they always provide an extra tailcap boot even though it seems extremely difficult to impossible for the lay person to service it if need be.
Danielsan
Enlightened
I cant agree with that, the nightcore anodizing is really good, i never get nightcore lights with silver spots. I got many other brands with little silver spots in the anodizing. Overall for me nightcore has just the same quality as most chinese lights, i cant see a difference in it at all. The chinese lights are all so similar it looks like they come all from the same factory. The most problems in terms of anodizing i had with sunwayman. My D40A was sparkled with tiny silver spots and the sharp edges on my D20A were not anodized at all. My jetbeam SRA40 has a rattling power port at the bottom. my Olight SR Mini had glue or talcum powder inside the reflector. The lens of my Thrunite Lynx was scratched up. The only cosmetically perfect light i can rember was a Nightcore P25 Smilodon, a P12 and a EC1
I own TM26, and gong to TM06. Can't say anything about 06, but I have dropped my 26 one time on a hard surface (ceramic floor squares). Broke a lens glass. Had to order another one. IS were surprised, but sent me two of them (as i asked, referring to my luck)...
My V10A and V20As have some of the best anodising I've encountered, yet the anodising on my D40A is nothing to write home about. It's like they were made by different companies and, given the way Chinese industry works, I wouldn't be surprised if that were true. I would also not be at all surprised if Nitecore have significant variability between models.
david57strat
Enlightened
- Joined
- May 29, 2012
- Messages
- 485
Thus far, I've obtained 10 of their lights, but continue to have zero negative issues with any of them. I'm very pleased with them, so far 
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Overclocker
Flashlight Enthusiast
well i'm happy to report that more recent nitecore builds have greatly improved in quality and reliability
I still have my EX10 in working condition (but high parasitic drain seems to be a major issue with it these days). I never had any problem with my Nitecore lights. The recent builds seem to have indeed improved on quality further.
Hondo
Flashlight Enthusiast
I avoid parasitic drain in the EX10/D10 by turning them off by turning the head when I won't be using them for a while, it's a full mechanical lock-out. When the piston switching/ramping is available, you are using power. You can still have momentary piston activation in this state, though.
Lumencrazy
Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2015
- Messages
- 369
2015 and we still accept that kind of parasitic drain? We are light years behind in technology. The overseas manufacturers know that as long as they print 100000 lumen super-tactical bad guy vaporizer on the box cover we will want to believe it and will buy it. So why try harder. When it comes to selling flashlights they have figured us out.
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Hondo
Flashlight Enthusiast
Actually, we are talking about lights now that were new back in 2008.
And it is only an issue when you activate the piston feature, they have literally zero when backed out to momentary only.
My (newer) HDS lights have a pretty high overhead when running on low modes, although still extremely low in the off state. None of the control ring lights have decent very low mode runtimes due to high overhead draw from the circuit. And unless they have a mechanical switch to disconnect the battery, they draw quite a bit in the off position. HDS is the exception to the latter, as it's switch is electronic, but still prevents significant parasitic drain from the Rotary when off.
I am very interested in the lights that are not made overseas and have the technology that we are so far behind. Could you point me to some? If their prices are not overly prohibitive, I would consider purchasing some. But since none of my current lights have unavoidable parasitic drain that effects their use for me, I won't be willing to pay a lot more for their features.
Oh, and all of my Nitecore lights are still working.
And it is only an issue when you activate the piston feature, they have literally zero when backed out to momentary only.
My (newer) HDS lights have a pretty high overhead when running on low modes, although still extremely low in the off state. None of the control ring lights have decent very low mode runtimes due to high overhead draw from the circuit. And unless they have a mechanical switch to disconnect the battery, they draw quite a bit in the off position. HDS is the exception to the latter, as it's switch is electronic, but still prevents significant parasitic drain from the Rotary when off.
I am very interested in the lights that are not made overseas and have the technology that we are so far behind. Could you point me to some? If their prices are not overly prohibitive, I would consider purchasing some. But since none of my current lights have unavoidable parasitic drain that effects their use for me, I won't be willing to pay a lot more for their features.
Oh, and all of my Nitecore lights are still working.
Lumencrazy
Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2015
- Messages
- 369
As we all are aware, with an electronic switch you will always have parasitic drain. The issue is how much. Companies like Zebralight and Armytek have drain rates lower than the self-discharge rates of most batteries (kudos to them). Battery protection circuits also continually pass current which is one reason I use unprotected batteries for both my Zebralight and Armytek flashlights (these lights have a battery protection curcuit built into the driver so no sense in having two in series) . Again the question is how much current is being used? Ultimately it is a reflection of both the quality of the components and the circuit design. For example, for the EA41, the Nitecore manual recomends keeping the batteries out of the light EA41 to prevent from draining them during storage (high drain rates were confirmed by Selfbuit during his evaluation of this light) meanwhile I can keep my Zebralight and Armytek products ready to go with no problem.
WarRaven
Flashlight Enthusiast
I wonder how many Joe six packs or regular Joe's, read the manual to realize the high parasitic drain?
Quite a few of them will be using alkaleaks and this light equals a clean up on isle 3.
No one expects it to drain away cells not in use.
Pass.
Quite a few of them will be using alkaleaks and this light equals a clean up on isle 3.
No one expects it to drain away cells not in use.
Pass.
Lou Minescence
Flashlight Enthusiast
Average Joe will probably blame the batteries and not realize the light was the problem.
I have a TM06 I like a lot. I discovered the extreme uneven battery drain on my own and then read about it in CPF.
I will never gift this light to anyone incase there is an unsafe battery problem caused by the drain. I might be paranoid, but the average person can't be expected to check there batteries every couple weeks for uneven drain and recharge them.
WarRaven
Flashlight Enthusiast
+1
Considerate friend indeed.
I guess an option would be to print on the light itself to lock out power supply when not in use.
That is, if it's not already on one?
Lou Minescence
Flashlight Enthusiast
There's no label on it but I should make one. Locking out the light is not easy. You almost have to unscrew the tail cap completely. About 2 1/2 turns it's locked out. At 3 turns ithe tail cap comes off. It can be locked out but it's not designed to do that.
WarRaven
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks, I had no idea it was that far.
I wonder if pipe thread sealant tape, like one or two thin wraps to limit tail cap ability to make electrical contact unless seated would or may help?
