i have a flashlight shell with a xr-e that works, but the driver is broken somehow, it was a boost driver as it only required one AA battery, i have a few extra amc drivers of the same size and was thinking about some kind of replacement but the problem is that i need about 4v, is there any battery that will allow me to power an xr-e at 1000ma, voltage drop on the driver is about .1-.2 and fit in the same space as a AA battery?
noob battery help
- Thread starter doctaq
- Start date
Mr Happy
Flashlight Enthusiast
A lithium ion 14500 cell would give you the right voltage, if you are prepared to get involved with a lot of new battery complications.
Note it is extremely unlikely the XR-E was being driven at 1000 mA. On an AA cell that would require a current draw of about three times that at least, needing 3 to 3.5 A. Even if some NiMH cells could manage that in theory, single AA size lights are seldom designed that way.
Note it is extremely unlikely the XR-E was being driven at 1000 mA. On an AA cell that would require a current draw of about three times that at least, needing 3 to 3.5 A. Even if some NiMH cells could manage that in theory, single AA size lights are seldom designed that way.
Mr Happy
Flashlight Enthusiast
If the original light did not drive the emitter to 1000 mA (it didn't) you cannot drive it now to 1000 mA. If you try, all you will succeed in doing is destroying the emitter. The usual drive current for a 1 AA light is ~350 mA.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.28546
okay, i guess i might have made a poor assumption, but guessing off of the 220 lumens i figured it was being driven to 1000ma
okay, i guess i might have made a poor assumption, but guessing off of the 220 lumens i figured it was being driven to 1000ma
Lighthouse one
Flashlight Enthusiast
You're better off to just buy another light if you really want that much output. A small light can't handle the heat given off by driving the led at 1000ma.
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Lumencraft (Matt)
Flashlight Enthusiast
If it was my light I would use an AMC 7135 700ma driver (if it will fit), with a 14500 li-ion. If you get a good 14500 like one of AWs you could even use the 1050ma board. The light would get hot pretty quick, and run time would only be about 30 min. I have built several small lights that were driven much harder than what they were intended for. The heat does become an issue, but it sure is a blast to get that many lumens out of such a small light. KD even sells a 2 mode board that would give you a high of 1A and low of 250ma that's a 7135 base board.
If you are not familiar with li-ion safety I recommends that you read up carefully on it before placing an order for some.
If you are not familiar with li-ion safety I recommends that you read up carefully on it before placing an order for some.
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i will certianly look into the saftey, that kick is exactly what i am looking for. i am okay with the heat, i will use thermal compound to transfer the heat to the shell and im going to be using it for parking lot directing at night so its only going to be on for 10 sec at a time
Lumencraft (Matt)
Flashlight Enthusiast
If you are running the 700ma driver you should be able to run it for quite a while before it starts to get hot. On the 1050 it would eventually start to burn your hand, but if the body gets hot that's a very good thing. It means the emitter is transferring the heat.
What exactly do you mean you are going to use thermal compound to transfer the heat? Are you going to re glue the emitter?
If so be sure to get the layer of epoxy as thin as possible.
Li-ion are some of the best batteries on the planet IMHO. The most important thing is not to over charge them above 4.2v and not to overdischarge them, meaning at to high of a current. If you bet protected cells this will aid in safety, and will also help you to keep from damaging the cells.
Member Mdocod has a couple of good threads on the subject.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536
He dives into most of the safety issues, and other importants.
What exactly do you mean you are going to use thermal compound to transfer the heat? Are you going to re glue the emitter?
If so be sure to get the layer of epoxy as thin as possible.
Li-ion are some of the best batteries on the planet IMHO. The most important thing is not to over charge them above 4.2v and not to overdischarge them, meaning at to high of a current. If you bet protected cells this will aid in safety, and will also help you to keep from damaging the cells.
Member Mdocod has a couple of good threads on the subject.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536
He dives into most of the safety issues, and other importants.
i dont quite understand the c value
and whats the deal with chargers? is it something i have to sit and watch? how can the battery overcharge?
can you reccomend a battery and charger combo for 14500 it seems like is the same size as AA generally?
is overcharging the battery from leaving it in there for too long?
i sorta understand that i cannot use too much power from these since if i drain the whole battery in less than one hour or so it will damage the battery but what about charging?
will running the battery at 1000ma drain too quickly?
and whats the deal with chargers? is it something i have to sit and watch? how can the battery overcharge?
can you reccomend a battery and charger combo for 14500 it seems like is the same size as AA generally?
is overcharging the battery from leaving it in there for too long?
i sorta understand that i cannot use too much power from these since if i drain the whole battery in less than one hour or so it will damage the battery but what about charging?
will running the battery at 1000ma drain too quickly?
SilverFox
Flashaholic
Hello Doctaq,
If you have a battery that has 2000 mAh of capacity, a 1C load would drain the battery in 1 hour. If you drained the battery in 2 hours, it would be a 0.5C load.
When charging, a 1C charge rate is a rate that matches the capacity of the battery. Back to the 2000 mAh cell, a 1C charge rate would be 2 amps. A 0.5C charge rate would be 1 amp.
Most batteries can handle a 2C discharge rate, but that rate will cause them to heat up and heat will do damage to the battery resulting in fewer charge/discharge cycles.
If your load is 1 amp, you then have to decide what you want for run time. If you want 1 hour of run time, your battery needs to have 1000 mAh.
Also, it is important to understand that there may be a difference between the batteries labeled capacity, and the actual capacity that the battery is capable of. It seems that many labels are very optimistic.
Tom
If you have a battery that has 2000 mAh of capacity, a 1C load would drain the battery in 1 hour. If you drained the battery in 2 hours, it would be a 0.5C load.
When charging, a 1C charge rate is a rate that matches the capacity of the battery. Back to the 2000 mAh cell, a 1C charge rate would be 2 amps. A 0.5C charge rate would be 1 amp.
Most batteries can handle a 2C discharge rate, but that rate will cause them to heat up and heat will do damage to the battery resulting in fewer charge/discharge cycles.
If your load is 1 amp, you then have to decide what you want for run time. If you want 1 hour of run time, your battery needs to have 1000 mAh.
Also, it is important to understand that there may be a difference between the batteries labeled capacity, and the actual capacity that the battery is capable of. It seems that many labels are very optimistic.
Tom
Lumencraft (Matt)
Flashlight Enthusiast
"C" stands for capacity. If the capacity of a cell is 1000ma and the max discharge rate is 1.5C than you cannot discharge the cell at more than 1500ma.
Something else you may already know but I will mention anyway. Cell capacities are labeled in milliamp per hour. So if you have a cell that is 2 amp @ 3.7v and you discharge it at 1 amp (1000ma) than you will get 2 hours run time.
No, not exactly. It is highly recommended by most members including myself to never leave batteries (especially li-ion) charging unattended. There is of course some forgiveness with NICAD and NIMH recharge ables, but I personally don't even like leave the consumer type batteries charging when I leave the house, my NICAD drill pack out in the shop is about the only thing that "stays" plugged in.
Some battery chargers will finish a charge cycle and then do what is called a trickle charge, meaning it will continue to charge the cell at a very slow rate even after the initial charge cycle is terminated. For NIMH cells this is not a big deal because they self discharge at a fairly quick rate, and if I am not mistaken the trickle charge is to ensure that they remain at full charge.
If you were to put an unprotected Li-ion cell into a charger that did this it would charge until eventually the cell would either vent toxic fumes or even flames. I read a post on this forum where someone put a non rechargeable li-ion into a charger and it actually exploded. This is why it is not a good idea to leave cells charging if you leave the house or while you are asleep.
This being said if you are careful, and take the necessary precautions you should never have to experience this.
The charger I prefer is the Ultrafire WF139. I like this charger because it will charge about any cell that is commonly used for flashlights, and it is a smart charger (meaning it knows when to shut itself off). It will charge both protected and unprotected cells. 14500 li-ion cells are about the same physical size, but you cannot charge them with an AA charger because rechargeable AA cells are 1.2 volts and a li-ion cell is 3.7 volts.
If you want quality cells that live up to their rated capacity AW has them for 9$ each. If you want some cheaper DX has protected cells 5.50 a pair. The capacity on most DX cells is exaggerated these claim 900ma, but they are closer to 700ma.
You should be able to drain the battery for this light in as little as 45 min because the max discharge rate for most li-ion cells is at least 1C. The max charge rate I think is around 1C but if you get a smart charger you don't need to worry about it.
You could discharge AWs cells at that rate safely since his are a true 750ma, with the DX cells it may be a little hard on them. The true capacity of the Trusfire 14500 cells is 700ma and 1.5C would be 1050ma. You may want to ask around about taxing that cell so hard.
One other thing I wanted to mention. What ever cell you decide on be sure to get the protected version. On this there will be a PCB added to the end of the cell that makes it slightly longer, but this will help avert any disasters. The PCB will protect the cell from over charge, over discharge and it will cut the power at the end of the battery life to prevent deep cell discharge.
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Mr Happy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Not milliamps per hour, but milliamps times hours. If you run 1000 mA for 2 hours, this is equal to 1000 mA x 2 h = 2000 mAh.
Contrast this with speed. If you travel 1000 km in 2 hours, this is an average speed of 1000 km / 2 h = 500 km/h.
Lumencraft (Matt)
Flashlight Enthusiast
can anyone reccomend a battery for my application that is small? i could cut a couple springs off if the battery is way too huge i can get a trustfire charger and surefire battery
http://www.libradi.com/librad/Show.aspx?PID=121
http://www.libradi.com/librad/Show.aspx?PID=126
would this be a good combo? i read in the saftey link not to charge them past the 4.2 i think but how do you know when to stop and will this charger or any other charger automaticly stop charging?
http://www.libradi.com/librad/Show.aspx?PID=121
http://www.libradi.com/librad/Show.aspx?PID=126
would this be a good combo? i read in the saftey link not to charge them past the 4.2 i think but how do you know when to stop and will this charger or any other charger automaticly stop charging?
Lumencraft (Matt)
Flashlight Enthusiast
Exactly what light did you decide on? I am guessing you gave up on the AA thing?
Yes that charger and those batteries would work fine. I have a pair of the protected 2400ma Trustfire cells I still use.
That charger should have an automatic cut off when the cells reach 4.2V. Just be sure to remove the cells when the charge cycle is done, dont just leave them in the charger( the red light at the bottom will turn green when the cell is charged).
Since the cells you linked are protected, even if the charger did not have a cut off the protection circuit on the battery would terminate the charge when they reach 4.2V
hi!
I plan to buy the Fandyfire A10B flashlight with xm-l led, 1 mode 700 lumen (2.2A?) ....
This is my second flashlight and want to buy batteries too. I was thinking that A123 would be a better choice. What would be the drawback of this type of battery?
Many thanks!
I plan to buy the Fandyfire A10B flashlight with xm-l led, 1 mode 700 lumen (2.2A?) ....
This is my second flashlight and want to buy batteries too. I was thinking that A123 would be a better choice. What would be the drawback of this type of battery?
Many thanks!
Lumencraft (Matt)
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hi szbalogh,
Welcome to CPF :)
I am not that familiar with A123 cells because I dont use them but one thing that could be an issue is the voltage. Even with the low VF of XML leds if the driver in that light does not have boost capabilities, the 3.2V life cell may not drive the emitter to full power.
Most often Lipo cells are only used in flashlights when the current demand exceeds what is save for Lico cells, or when you need to be able to recharge at a very high rate.
Welcome to CPF :)
I am not that familiar with A123 cells because I dont use them but one thing that could be an issue is the voltage. Even with the low VF of XML leds if the driver in that light does not have boost capabilities, the 3.2V life cell may not drive the emitter to full power.
Most often Lipo cells are only used in flashlights when the current demand exceeds what is save for Lico cells, or when you need to be able to recharge at a very high rate.
