Noob mistake?

[Casebrius]

I just purchased some AW R123's. I charged them and popped them into my SF M95 and, you guessed it, immediately flashed the bulb. Are these batteries not supposed to be run in incan. lights? How often do these bulbs flash? It's the first time this has happened to me.

 

[nanoWatt]

From what I read you should let them sit after charging. Someone else will fill in, since I only have an LED light that I use RCR123 cells in.

 

[SAVAGESAM]

Yep. Too much, too soon.

 

[nobody]

Well you goofed a little bit but no biggie. That light uses 6v bulbs. You hit it with about 8v. RCR123's don't work all that great on incand bulbs, with a few exceptions. There is an easy fix: Malkoff M60 LED drop in.

http://www.malkoffdevices.com

 

[Casebrius]

so after they sit for a while what does the voltage drop off to? I haven't priced them yet, but I imagine these bulbs aren't cheap. I guess I'm supposed to use primaries only for stock incan. bulbs? I have a DX SSC drop in ordered from DX, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4068 ,do they fit in this light? Also, this light was given to me and I'd like a tube w/o the weapon mount - Where would I procure one?

 

[angelofwar]

They'll work...but like they said, let them sit for a bit...and test 'em with a multi-meter before you put them in to make sure they've "cooled down"...each one should read at just under 3-Volts before you put them into a "delicate" incan. I've tried 'em in my SF 6-P, and after they drop there voltage a bit, work just fine.

 

[nobody]

There is some incorrect info posted in this thread. CPF'er mdocod has done an exhaustive compilation on what works for rechargeable's in every configuration.

Do yourself a favor and read this to get up to speed on using li-ions:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=161536

 

[SilverFox]

Hello Angleofwar,

You are thinking of NiMh cells. A R-CR123 cell is Li-Ion. You charge them up to 4.2 volts/cell. Letting them sit for a while doesn't do much, unless the cell is damaged. You may see the voltage drop from 4.2 down to 4.18 volts.

Now if you let them sit for 3 - 5 years, it may drop all the way down to 4.1 volts...

Tom

 

[Illum]

if your thinking of using rechargeables, might want to consider changing out the stock LA as a 6V lamp will take a little overdriving vltage at the cost of bulb life, but 8Vs =

Although lithium rechargeables are labeled 3.6V [nominal] when they are fully charged they are 4.2V, enough to instaflash anything that runs on 6V.
a fully charged cell in storage will self discharge to [wasnt theres a thread on this somewhere :thinking:] a steady level around 60% but this takes a long long time, it took about two months for my 17670 to drop from 4.2V to 4V [10%], and that was in a fairly hot storage condition

EDIT: interesting SilverFox, Im not sure if they take THAT long, but I suppose for a new cell it might be possible, my 17670s have, unfortunately, been deep cycled a couple times

[the recommended storage of rechargeable lithiums around 3.8V or 50% in a cool dry place]

 

[Casebrius]

Thanks for the education. Will any of the drop-ins from DX (LED or incan)work with this light?

 

[Gunner12]

Li-ion batteries = 4.2v fully charged
Primary CR123 = 3.3-3.2v fresh

The LED drop-ins have a circuit in them to lower the voltage so the LED is not connected directly to the battery or the LED would fry. Most white LEDs take 3.7v.

Any of the DX drop-ins that take 9V or more will work fine if you use 2 Li-ion batteries. This drop-in will take 18v.

Most Incans don't have a circuit and I think Li-ion batteries sag less the primary when under high draw so don't use lamps meant for primaries with rechargeable batteries(Unless you know that they will work).

 

[nanoWatt]

Under 3V doesn't sound right oo: for RC123's. If they go under 3V they won't hold a charge any more. Off the charger, RC123's should read about 4.15V. I don't know about other batteries, but I don't think after charging the voltage will drop that far.

They'll work...but like they said, let them sit for a bit...and test 'em with a multi-meter before you put them in to make sure they've "cooled down"...each one should read at just under 3-Volts before you put them into a "delicate" incan. I've tried 'em in my SF 6-P, and after they drop there voltage a bit, work just fine.

 

[Casebrius]

What is the shutoff voltage for AW RCR123's? Also, what is the proper name for the Marine issue SF six volt weapons light- M95? Is this considered a P series light? Rather than start another noob thread, I'll keep asking ?'s in here - Is there a tube conversion that I can use two 18650's with a HO-9 D26 drop in for this light? It seems this would be my brightest/longest option for this light. Thanks for edumacating a Noob!

 

[Grox]

What is the shutoff voltage for AW RCR123's? Also, what is the proper name for the Marine issue SF six volt weapons light- M95? Is this considered a P series light? Rather than start another noob thread, I'll keep asking ?'s in here - Is there a tube conversion that I can use two 18650's with a HO-9 D26 drop in for this light? It seems this would be my brightest/longest option for this light. Thanks for edumacating a Noob!

Re: the AW RCR123 cells

From the sales thread over at CPF marketplace

- Overcharge protection at 4.35V
- Overdischarge protection at 2.45V

I can't help you out on the M95 unfortunately, but if it takes P60 style lamp assemblies, as others have mentioned, you could try an LED drop-in. Surefire's P60L would work in your application.

There is also a list of P60 sized led drop ins here.

To run 2x RCR123 you will need an assembly rated at (2x 4.2V which is) 8.4V or higher.

As the others have suggested above, it is absolutely imperative that you read about the dangers and how to properly care for rechargeable lithium ion cells before you use them. The linked thread by mdocod has excellent information.

I hope that helps you.

 

[Casebrius]

thanks all for the help! After 6 hours of reading, I won't have as many noob questions!

 

[nzgunnie]

easy solution....

Use your RCR123s and simply replace the P60 with a P90.

Shorter run time, but no worry about flashing the lamp.

If you want to go the LED drop in route, don't waste your time with 2xRCR123s, use one 17670, and get a drop in that works at 3.7v. One 17670 will give way more run time than 2xRCR123s.

Post a pic of your light. Surefire doesn't make a light called the M95. It makes several lights with the part number M95x (ie the M951XM07, or the M952UM07, the XM and UM parts refer to the type of tail cap, the 1 refers to thumbscrew mount, the 2 has an arms throw lever).

Basically the M95anything is a 6V weapon light with a M2 head.

 

[Casebrius]

My light is a M951????. It has a momentary on button or screw on, no pressure switch. This will fit one 18650 correct? Is there a tube available to convert this to a 2x18650 configuration using existing tailcap and head? I didn't see a Leef body that fit the bill.

 

[nzgunnie]

The M weapon series lights can also take the momentary push button tail caps, just like the standard M and C etc series lights can, the threads are the same.

I'm not sure about 18650s though? Generally speaking SF lights do not have a large enough internal dia for the 18XXX cells. I can't fit them in my classic series (660) weapon light.

You will be able to fit a 17670 cell.

 

[Casebrius]

Light looks like this minus pressure switch

 

[tsl]

Looks like the older M2 head and a SW01. If so, a Leef C-C body should work. And from what I understand, a run of C-C bodies is in progress. You can email Lighthound and ask to be put on a pre-order list. I assume that you'll then be notified when they come in.