Norland 61 help

Splat_NJ

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Oct 19, 2007
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I'm new to the whole gid powder thing but I'm very techno-savvy and would like to add some gid features to some flashlights (Jetbeam Jet-II Pro), knives, and other things. I see Norland 61 seems to be a popular adhesive choice but the curing thing poses a problem. I have found this blacklight http://www.blacklightworld.com/6_inc..._blacklite.htm or http://tinyurl.com/5qkq37 but I don't know if it'd work. It's only 4W and the stated wavelength is 350nm-360nm. Direct from Norland's site: "NOA 61 is cured by ultraviolet light with maximum absorption within the range of 320-380 nanometers with peak sensitivity around 365nm. The recommended energy required for full cure is 3 Joules/sq. cm in these wavelengths." Would that blacklight I linked work? Also, has anyone here used Norland 61 with Glowinc's powders and what method did you use for curing?
 
The UV lamp will work to cure Norland 61 but I would not mix Norland 61 with glow powders or anything else. It works great for bonding glass like the glass tubes of tritium vials. I would use clear epoxy for mixing with glow powders.
 
I forgot to say that Norland 61 will cure in sunlight, it justs takes a while longer (a few hours).
 
Thanks for replying guys. Beamhead, how'd your items come out mixing the gid powder with N61? Is it still holding up well?
 
I have mixed Norland 61 with glow powder and sun cured it with success.

When I tried it cured with success too but it was rather brittle, the top surface started flaking off from use in a few weeks. I might have used too much powder, I don't know, I only tried it once then switched to clear 30 minute epoxy.
 
Only reason I'm contemplating Norland is you don't have to mix it like 2-part epoxies. Morelite, which epoxy are you using? Thanks.
 
When I tried it cured with success too but it was rather brittle, the top surface started flaking off from use in a few weeks. I might have used too much powder, I don't know, I only tried it once then switched to clear 30 minute epoxy.

You more than likely did put too much glow powder in.

Splat_NJ, Devcon clear works but it will yellow over time, Norland won't.
Which ever you decide to use experiment with a small batch or 2 first, if you mix too much glow powder in it will feel gritty. I try to make sure it has some sheen left to it after mixing.
 
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Only reason I'm contemplating Norland is you don't have to mix it like 2-part epoxies. Morelite, which epoxy are you using? Thanks.

I've used both the Devcon and Loctite. Devcon Flow-Mix is a little clearer but that stuff is only 5 minute so you have to be quick. The Loctite is available in 5 and 30 minute set times, but it is not crystal clear. I'm not to sure if being really clear is that important since the glow powder turns both into a translucent color close to the glow powder.
 
I would use the devcon 2-ton epoxy over the 5 minute stuff. It ages much better and gets less yellow then the 5 minute devcon. IMO, you do want to use the clearest epoxy possible to get the maximum brightness from the glow powder.

FYI, here is another thread discussing lights for curing Norland 61.
 
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