Peak McKinley 1 LED

AFAustin

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
1,801
Location
outside of Austin, TX
I am the proud owner of a Peak model that you don't see or see discussed around CPF much, but I am tickled to death with it and thought I'd show it off a bit. It is a brass McKinley 1 LED UP (Ultrapower).

Here's its story. I bought it from a fellow CPFer on B/S/T a few months ago, mainly out of curiosity and lured by the bargain price. When I received it, I immediately loved the short, chunky, heavy brass form factor, as well as its silky smooth twist action. However, the beam was really bad---the hotspot had very pronounced blue and yellow rings, the beam had artifacts, etc.

I am not a modder or even handy, but decided to try sanding the LED down to see if that would smooth out the beam. I figured, what the heck, I couldn't make it any worse. Well, I made it worse. I guess I overdid it, because I certainly smoothed out the beam---to the point where the output was so dim as to be almost useless.

I decided to kiss goodbye the bargain aspect of the light and try to save it, because I still loved the form factor. I called Peak and spoke with both Curt and Robyn, both of whom couldn't have been nicer. They told me that they weren't making McKinley 1 LEDs any longer, but they did have just a few parts still in stock, including a small number of brass heads in UP only. I had wanted a HP (High Power) because I saw this little guy as a potential runtime/suck-up-spent-CR123As champion, but I was just happy that any were available, so I gladly bought an UP.

Robyn shipped it right out, and when I received it I was very pleased indeed---the beam was now a winner---a clean white hotspot and a very wide spillbeam (although with several rings at various intervals, which don't bother me). And it is surprisingly bright on a new primary or an RCR123A, with slightly more overall output (as per the venerable ceiling bounce test) than my McKinley 7 LED HP (old style, w/ recessed LEDs). With a nearly spent cell, it also performs its original intended duty with honor, making it a very nice read-in-bed light.

I had previously been impressed with the results of an informal runtime test I'd done on my McKinley 7 LED HP---7h 45m on an (old style blue) AW protected RCR123A, with fairly flat output to my eye, till the protection circuit kicked in. So, I couldn't resist seeing how the 1 LED UP would do. The result was right at 9h 45m till the protection circuit on the same type RCR123A kicked in. And output was surprisingly flat throughout that entire period (as measured by my eyes, comparing it to a "yardstick" light).

[As a non-Peak sidenote, I also was testing another new (to me) acquisition---a gen.2 (reflector, long runtime) Inova X1 that I just received from Kevin at Batterystation (yep, he's still got the gen.2s, and at an attractive price). Running on a fully charged AA eneloop, the X1 had similar overall output to the McKinley 1 LED for 7 hrs., then began dimming fairly quickly. When the McKinley gave up at 9h 45m, the X1 was still going, but was so dim as to be almost useless. So, I was very pleased with the X1's performance as well.]

All in all, I couldn't be happier with my little brass McKinley 1 LED UP---its performance is now commensurate with its unique and appealing form factor.

Here are a couple of photos, one of which is to show size comparison with my McKinley 7 LED (old style).

P1010195.jpg


P1010197.jpg
 
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You need a brass pocket body for your new light. It cuts weight down and is handy.
I have a couple of the Mckinleys, but tend to use my Pacifics more.
I do like the old style Mckinley in brass - I have a new one in HA - but have pocket bodies on both of them.
 
arty,

Thanks for your comments---I know you appreciate Peaks.

You have a point about the advantages of the pocket bodies. They also can tailstand (although so can the keychain bodies if you take a second to unscrew the end piece). But, you know, I actually had a CR2 pocket body for my brass Pacific and found it to be too short for my liking---it just didn't feel right in my hand and didn't have enough length for a good grip. OTOH, I also have an AA pocket body for the Pacific, and, due to the greater length of the AA bodies, much prefer it to the AA keychain. So, I guess to each his own....
 
I'm a fan of the old Peak McKinley single-LED model too! :thumbsup: I bought this one recently, HA keychain body with a red LED:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=2112094&postcount=1

For a single 4mm emitter it has a fair amount of throw, probably due to the high dome LED.

Austin, now I'm wondering if this is a HP or UP. I'll have to check it when I get home.

Yep, I noticed that one when it went up for sale. Good snag on it---looks like a real collector's item to me. If you get the chance, slap a protected RCR123A in there and post the runtime you get till the protection circuit kicks in. I bet it will be impressive.
 
Okay, so I did this: put a freshly charged 750 mAh AW protected RCR123 cell into my single-red-led McKinley and started a run test. It conked out (protection circuit kicked in) at just under seven hours.

This is the HP model. Output was (to my eye) the same from the beginning to end, and there was no moon mode.

Truth be told, I was kind of expecting quite a bit more runtime out of this light, what with the single led and all. But in practical terms, I'm happy with seven hours.
 
Okay, so I did this: put a freshly charged 750 mAh AW protected RCR123 cell into my single-red-led McKinley and started a run test. It conked out (protection circuit kicked in) at just under seven hours.

This is the HP model. Output was (to my eye) the same from the beginning to end, and there was no moon mode.

Truth be told, I was kind of expecting quite a bit more runtime out of this light, what with the single led and all. But in practical terms, I'm happy with seven hours.

Thanks for doing the test.

I likewise would have expected a bit longer, though that's still a long runtime. I hope someone who understands electronics (which I don't) will speak to it. I do know there are a lot of variables---LED lottery, circuit differences, flashlight vintage, condition of battery, etc., that might come into play.
 
Yeah, if you do the math (750mAh battery / 7 hours) you get a drive current of a little over 100mA. I suppose that's appropriate for this emitter type, a small low-power LED.

I think I'm gonna need some Peak brass soon, I keep looking at that picture in your first post :D
 
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