Pocket light/Fenix E11 replacement

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N8N

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Apr 26, 2013
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So I've apparently lost my Fenix E11 and my pocketknife... I have no idea where they went, I probably emptied out my pockets somewhere and left them laying out and now they're gone (doggie has a habit of picking up stuff and hiding it, I'll probably find them a year from now.) I'm probably looking for a durable, not-too-expensive or collectible AA or single RCR123 light (because it's going to get beat up.)

What I like about the Fenix - size is just right, not too big, not too small. I've gone swimming in a lake with it in my pockets with no apparent issues. I prefer the tail clicky to twisties.

What I don't like about the Fenix - I don't like the turn the head to change brightness arrangement. I would prefer a control ring arrangement if such is available in such a small format but I kind of doubt it. I'd prefer to have the option of a pocket clip so it doesn't fall to the bottom of my pocket. I'd prefer a high CRI emitter if available, although the Fenix really wasn't offensive. I'd like the option of a moonlight mode as I don't have a single light with same. Doesn't tailstand.

I was looking at a L3 Illumination L10 4-mode with 219, but it's a twisty (yuck) and doesn't appear to have a pocket clip option.
Also have thought about a Malkoff MDC 1xAA or 1xCR123 which would be darn near perfect but no high CRI emitter available. Opinions on the emitters Gene's using? Comparable at least to my Fenix? (really would be more money than I wanted to spend, but I like my 219L drop in and keep hearing about how Gene's stuff is great.) I'd rather have a control ring to change modes, but L-M-H would be my second choice.
Also thinking maybe a custom Malkoff MD1, although that might be on the large size and out of my price range and still not meet all my wants.
Finally thought about a Peak El Capitan with the optional tail switch.

At this time I'm thinking I should just suck it up and pay the extra money for the Malkoff MDC or Peak but not sure if there's something I'm missing, and also if I go Malkoff if I'd prefer the AA or 123. Thanks for any input!

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__x__This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
__x__Up to $50.
____Up to $100.
____Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
____Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

____I am not sure, please help me decide.
__x__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
____I want a self-contained headlamp.
____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
__x__TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
__x__SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
____MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
____I don’t know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

__x__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

__x__I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
__x__I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
__x__I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
__x__I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
__x__I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
____I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)
____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
____I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)
__x__I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
____I don't care


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
__x__I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
____I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

____SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

____All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
__x__Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
____Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
____Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
__x__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
__x__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
__x__90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A “night-stand” light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
__x__Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don’t know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
__x__I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
__x__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today’s high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
__x__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
__x__I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ---...--- emergency pattern)
____I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
__x__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s higher end flashlights).
__x__Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
__x__Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________.

15) Water resistance
____None needed
____IPX4 (Splash resistant)
__x__IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
__x__IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

16) Storage conditions
____In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
____Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
__x__Other_EDC________________________________________ ____


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____“Hybrid” light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
__x__Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments
 
How about another Fenix like... LD12? Don't mind me, I'm a new owner of one and happy about it... :X :D
 
Interesting. That one flew under my radar somehow. I could easily see myself destroying the mode switch though, and if I get a multi-mode light I'd prefer the lowest mode to be sub-lumen. Keep 'em coming though.

This just got more academic as I have located my E11, but now that I've started thinking about it I would still be interested to see if there's a "better" (for my needs/wants) EDC light available for not too much coin. I do like the E11 a lot; it's just not "exactly" what I would have designed.

I'd like the E11 a lot better if it did have a pocket clip, is there one that will fit? Looks like there is a groove near the tail where one could be used.
 
did you want me to read the review to understand your previous comment re: flickering, or are you suggesting that the LD12 clip will work on my E11? (looks plausible, and if so, are they available separately?)
 
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By the way, I am thinking that my "ideal" EDC light would probably be something like a HDS rotary hi-CRI but with a pocket clip and able to tailstand. And about 1/4 the price :(
 
The link refers to flicker issue only. As far as a clip for E11...I'm sure you'll come across something that works for you.
 
did you want me to read the review to understand your previous comment re: flickering, or are you suggesting that the LD12 clip will work on my E11? (looks plausible, and if so, are they available separately?)

I have both flashlights and just tried this idea out. The LD12 clip seems to click solidly/firmly on the E11, but it's only strong enough in terms of... not sliding out of the flashlight. Once you apply very little pressure, you can "pop it out" easily. At least on my new version E11.
 
You might take a look at an EagleTac D25A or D25C clicky. Available in XPG2 or XML2 depending on if you prefer more throw or flood. Available in cool or neutral white. Available in aluminum or titanium. Terrific EDC lights. Reverse tail clickys. With head tight you get turbo/strobe and head loose you get low/med/high controlled with half presses of the clicky. Hidden blinky modes available too. Deep pocket carry clip and lanyard mounting point on the tail.

I carry one of these most every day.
 
^^^
Yep. I can't say enough good about my D25C Ti Clicky XM-L2. Just the perfect combo of throw and spill. I am amazed every time I use it.
 
thanks, also looking at Quark QPA, thoughts? I like the idea of a reversible clip, to use it in a pinch on a ball cap as a ghetto headlight.

Edit: also intrigued by zebralight SC52W, although it appears to be a plastic body (or is it just an aluminum body with smoothly rounded edges?) and clip not reversible? I know I said tail switch but I think I could deal with the ZL switch just as well.
 
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Looking some more... looks like Jetbeam RRT-01 might be the win, only things it's missing off my wish list is that the clip be reversible an no high-CRI emitter. It's got everything else, looks like - I assume the tailcap switch is a forward clicky?
 
Looking some more... looks like Jetbeam RRT-01 might be the win, only things it's missing off my wish list is that the clip be reversible an no high-CRI emitter. It's got everything else, looks like - I assume the tailcap switch is a forward clicky?

The RRT-01 is a great light but doesent have a clicky at all. The thing on the end that looks like a button is a lanyard post. The magnetic ring controls everything with a detant on each end for off and max and smooth fully variable in the middle. It can also take an 18350 which gives it great battery life.

The Sunwayman V11R has a forward clicky on the tail cap and a magnetic ring on the head. Also can take any flavor of 123 or (with optional extender) any flavor of AA. It's a little big compared to the EagleTac D25's though.
 
Ah... well I looked into it more as a small control ring light still appeals to me, I'm still thinking that if I decide to upgrade my EDC that that is the current front runner. I did also look at the Niteye Eye 10 and I'd rather have the LOP reflector but detents in the control ring I think would kill it for me. The Sunwayman also looks really nice but the price that I saw (at least for the Ti version) is getting up there into HDS territory, are they really that good? Also really wanted sub lumen capabilities, although otherwise it's a really appealing light.
 
Ah... well I looked into it more as a small control ring light still appeals to me, I'm still thinking that if I decide to upgrade my EDC that that is the current front runner. I did also look at the Niteye Eye 10 and I'd rather have the LOP reflector but detents in the control ring I think would kill it for me. The Sunwayman also looks really nice but the price that I saw (at least for the Ti version) is getting up there into HDS territory, are they really that good? Also really wanted sub lumen capabilities, although otherwise it's a really appealing light.

IMO the niteye10 is an exceptional choice. The RRT0-1 and niteye10 are virtual clones.

I too thought the stepped control ring would be a downer...but it's not. In fact it is better than the v11r control ring. With the v11r you will eventualy have to split the LOCTITED head to repack the grease ring to keep it running.

The incremental ring on the eye10 does allow you to cheat.. You can dial it between the detents with a steady hand. No problems with the incremental ring whatsoever.
 
Ah... well I looked into it more as a small control ring light still appeals to me, I'm still thinking that if I decide to upgrade my EDC that that is the current front runner. I did also look at the Niteye Eye 10 and I'd rather have the LOP reflector but detents in the control ring I think would kill it for me. The Sunwayman also looks really nice but the price that I saw (at least for the Ti version) is getting up there into HDS territory, are they really that good? Also really wanted sub lumen capabilities, although otherwise it's a really appealing light.

The latest XML2 RRT-01 is rated at 600lm max and sublumen min so has quite a range. While not as bright on primary CR123s it can also take LiIon 16340 or 18350 cells. The ring action is light and short enough it's easy to almost instantly go from off to max or anywhere in between with one hand without changing grip. Being able to select the exact brightness you want is a compelling feature of these ring lights. It has a nice white tint and a beautiful floody beam without artifacts. This light also has a high quality look and feel.

The ring action is so light I worry about it coming on in my pocket but that hasent happened yet. And it's not quite as compact as the smallest single CR123 lights but it's not as big as others. I should have an Eye10 in a few days to compare.
 
you're trying to make me spend money, aren't you? (now's not a good time as I probably dropped $200 yesterday as my mobile toolbox literally fell apart, so I not only bought a new top chest for the sturdiness - Sears has a nice one on sale now for $94 BTW - but also while cleaning/organizing all my tools felt it necessary to fill some of the holes in my tool collection as a lot of my stuff was bought at yard sales, pawn shops, etc...)

Seriously, thanks for the recommend, I take it you have a RRT-01? Right now I think that is on my short list as I already have RCR123s and I don't have a sub-lumen light. I'm guessing you hold it like a Mag/other traditional flashlight and adjust the ring with your thumb?
 
Seriously, thanks for the recommend, I take it you have a RRT-01? Right now I think that is on my short list as I already have RCR123s and I don't have a sub-lumen light. I'm guessing you hold it like a Mag/other traditional flashlight and adjust the ring with your thumb?

Yup, I have an RRT-01 and a bunch of 18350s and use it regularly. I use it a lot when flying, particularly night flying and highly value its fully variable output from sub lumen to brilliant and its nice lanyard attachment point for a neck lanyard.

I hold it in an underhand grip with the tail in my palm and my last three fingers wrapped around the body and my thumb and first finger sit on the ring/head which is pretty much how I hold all small twisty interface lights. The ring action is light enough and is knurled so you could likely just adjust it with one finger or thumb, but I'm used to twisty lights that are a lot firmer so use both out of habit, plus I think it gives finer control.

I should have an Eye10 and Eye15 in the next week or so to compare it against and I'll let you know how that goes.
 
This is likely irrelevant to the OP but I finally received my Niteye Eye10 and Eye15 today.

The Jetbeam RRT-01 and Niteye Eye10 are extremely similar lights. The only notable differences being:
- The RRT01 is available in XML2 and the Eye10 is still only available in XML (so 600lm max vs 500 on LiIon)
- The control ring on the RRT-01 is nicely knurled all the way around while the Eye10 uses its bumpy format found on the rest of the body for half the ring and the other half has a series of embossed stripes (the other half used to be smooth which a lot of folks did not like so now the ring is grippy all the way round like the Eye15).
- The RRO-01 ring has very light detent at off and max and is smooth anywhere in between while the Eye10 has an off detent, a bit of a long twist to 10 evenly spaced brightness detents from lowest to highest (all these detent have about the same resistance and are much heavier than the ones on the RRT-01)
- The wrist lanyards for each are different with the RRT-01 being light an plain and the Eye10 one being heavier with a few bells and whistles (adjustments).
- My RRT-01 came with the pocket clip installed and no spare screws (but did include a hex key), while my Eye10 came without the pocket clip installed but the clip and four screws (and a hex key)

I think the RRT-01 and Eye10 are similar enough in all respects that is comes down to personal preference to choose between them. Obviously an XML2 is better than an XML because it gives you higher maximum output or longer run times at a given output level. But in my case the lightness of the detents on the RRT-01 always makes me nervous about is coming on in a pocket or bag. So I actually have a slight preference for the Eye10. But it is a slight preference and these are both great lights that are extremely similar.
 
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