Powering some indicator lights

[HarryN]

Hi, I am working on building a DC breaker panel - similar to the ones used on boats.

It will be typically be for controlling ( on / off / safety ) of 24 volt, LiFe batteries in the 100 - 200 amp-hr range.

I have the basics worked out, more or less just some off the shelf DC breakers.

It would be nice if this could also activate an led indicator light for when that breaker is activated. So for instance turn on a pump - an indicator light would turn on.

Here is an example of some.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/8082/DC_10_Position

It would be nice if it could work on 12 or 24 volt, but that is not a "must".

Any led in the 3 - 5 mm range is fine.

Thanks

Harry

 

[TPA]

I don't have any specific LEDs to recommend, but just a reminder that "24v" in battery systems like that can easily mean 30v+ at times. Plan accordingly when selecting LEDs. Overdriving LEDs, especially ones which will be illuminated most of the time, will kill them. I have several appliances from major manufacturers where the LEDs have aged unfavourably. One of them being a Samsung fridge. You'd think Samsung of all places would understand not to overdrive an LED.

 

[LEDphile]

There are quite a few pre-integrated options for this on the market (LED, dropping resistor, protection diode, panel mount housing). But if you want to roll your own, you'll need an LED, a signal diode in series with the LED for protection (since not all LEDs are happy being reverse-biased), and a resistor sized to control the current (sizing is (max operating voltage-LED forward voltage)/target drive current). All those parts go in series, and if you want to get fancy, adding a zener diode or TVS across the LED for additional protection isn't a bad thing.

 

[HarryN]

There are quite a few pre-integrated options for this on the market (LED, dropping resistor, protection diode, panel mount housing). But if you want to roll your own, you'll need an LED, a signal diode in series with the LED for protection (since not all LEDs are happy being reverse-biased), and a resistor sized to control the current (sizing is (max operating voltage-LED forward voltage)/target drive current). All those parts go in series, and if you want to get fancy, adding a zener diode or TVS across the LED for additional protection isn't a bad thing.

I am open (prefer ) to buy a "canned solution" vs rolling my own indicator lights.

I found these from dialight as a possibility.

I am still trying to interpret the diagram on some aspects. The goal is to have 5 or 6 circuits ( for things like a 24 volt pump, refrigerator, etc ) and the light to come on when the switch or breaker is actuated. So just in parallel with a 15 or 20 amp circuit. For instance, why are there 3 wire leads on the package ?

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www.digikey.com

I am open to suggestions for tough indicator lights that work over a wide temperature range.

 

[LEDphile]

Digikey has the wrong datasheet linked, the correct datasheet can be found at https://www.dialightsignalsandcompo...v-6-wire-leads-non-tinted-non-diffused-26-awg

The 3-wire lead versions have 2 colors, so one wire per color, plus one shared wire (looks like it's probably the cathode given the wire colors)

Based on the correct datasheet, you should be in good shape - that's an 85C rated part, and if you are running a 28V variant at 24V, things will be slightly dimmer but should last longer.

 

[TPA]

Back in the day when I built/repaired controls, I'd often order from AutomationDirect:

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/pushbuttons_-z-_switches_-z-_indicators/indicating_lights#sort=price%20asc&start=0

 

[HarryN]

Thanks for the information - very helpful.

Is the assumption that the thin wires act as their own - "fuse" - in case something goes wrong ? There could be 20 - 30 amps in the main power wires.

Both the single and multi color options look viable - I just need to think about how each one fits and looks.

Those are pretty thin wires but I guess normal for leds.