Probably a stupid question but

[laser771]

Will I need a driver if I have 10 18650's connected to this http://www.bulbconnection.com/ViewSIMItem/bcrw/simid/2027/item.html

?
Sorry if this is the wrong forum I don't know where to put this.

 

[mattheww50]

The short answer is no, you don't need a driver. Icandescent lights will operate over a fairly wide range of input voltages, if the input voltage is a little less than spec, you get a little less light, and little longer life. A little over voltage, and you get a little more light, and little less life. The resistance of the light rises with rising filament temperature, but over a relatively limit range +/- 10% of nominal voltage the device is essentially linear. By contrast once you get past the minimum Vf on a LED, the current rises very rapidly with rising voltage in an LED, they are non-linear devices. As a result to maintain output throughout nominal battery discharge, LED's almost always have drivers.

However there is a problem with what you want to do. Unless you are going to use IMR cells that are rated to provide the 13 amps or so required, things are going to get ugly very quickly. Standard 18650's are simply not designed to provide the 13 amps of so you will need. In fact if you use protected 18650's, the protection generally trips somewhere in the 4-5 amp range. If you use unprotected cells, you risk
catastrophic battery failure. NOte that even with IMR cells, your batteries will run the light for perhaps 10 minutes.

 

[LuxLuthor]

The short answer is no, you don't need a driver. Icandescent lights will operate over a fairly wide range of input voltages, if the input voltage is a little less than spec, you get a little less light, and little longer life. A little over voltage, and you get a little more light, and little less life. The resistance of the light rises with rising filament temperature, but over a relatively limit range +/- 10% of nominal voltage the device is essentially linear. By contrast once you get past the minimum Vf on a LED, the current rises very rapidly with rising voltage in an LED, they are non-linear devices. As a result to maintain output throughout nominal battery discharge, LED's almost always have drivers.

However there is a problem with what you want to do. Unless you are going to use IMR cells that are rated to provide the 13 amps or so required, things are going to get ugly very quickly. Standard 18650's are simply not designed to provide the 13 amps of so you will need. In fact if you use protected 18650's, the protection generally trips somewhere in the 4-5 amp range. If you use unprotected cells, you risk
catastrophic battery failure. NOte that even with IMR cells, your batteries will run the light for perhaps 10 minutes.

Emphasis on Matthew's 2nd paragraph. Make sure you know your various lithium ion/Lipo battery capabilities and dangers.

 

[laser771]

The short answer is no, you don't need a driver. Icandescent lights will operate over a fairly wide range of input voltages, if the input voltage is a little less than spec, you get a little less light, and little longer life. A little over voltage, and you get a little more light, and little less life. The resistance of the light rises with rising filament temperature, but over a relatively limit range +/- 10% of nominal voltage the device is essentially linear. By contrast once you get past the minimum Vf on a LED, the current rises very rapidly with rising voltage in an LED, they are non-linear devices. As a result to maintain output throughout nominal battery discharge, LED's almost always have drivers.

However there is a problem with what you want to do. Unless you are going to use IMR cells that are rated to provide the 13 amps or so required, things are going to get ugly very quickly. Standard 18650's are simply not designed to provide the 13 amps of so you will need. In fact if you use protected 18650's, the protection generally trips somewhere in the 4-5 amp range. If you use unprotected cells, you risk
catastrophic battery failure. NOte that even with IMR cells, your batteries will run the light for perhaps 10 minutes.

What type of battery(s) do you recommend for running this blub?

 

[laser771]

The short answer is no, you don't need a driver. Icandescent lights will operate over a fairly wide range of input voltages, if the input voltage is a little less than spec, you get a little less light, and little longer life. A little over voltage, and you get a little more light, and little less life. The resistance of the light rises with rising filament temperature, but over a relatively limit range +/- 10% of nominal voltage the device is essentially linear. By contrast once you get past the minimum Vf on a LED, the current rises very rapidly with rising voltage in an LED, they are non-linear devices. As a result to maintain output throughout nominal battery discharge, LED's almost always have drivers.

However there is a problem with what you want to do. Unless you are going to use IMR cells that are rated to provide the 13 amps or so required, things are going to get ugly very quickly. Standard 18650's are simply not designed to provide the 13 amps of so you will need. In fact if you use protected 18650's, the protection generally trips somewhere in the 4-5 amp range. If you use unprotected cells, you risk
catastrophic battery failure. NOte that even with IMR cells, your batteries will run the light for perhaps 10 minutes.

would this work?

http://www.orbtronic.com/batteries-...0a-18650-rechargeable-battery-cell-high-drain

 

[Admiralgrey]

would this work?

http://www.orbtronic.com/batteries-...0a-18650-rechargeable-battery-cell-high-drain

Check this out:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

If you can fit them, 26650s would of course be advantageous

 

[laser771]

would this work?

http://www.orbtronic.com/batteries-...0a-18650-rechargeable-battery-cell-high-drain

Just want to be sure

4 of http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Xtar 26650 4000mAh (Black) UK.html would work?

 

[LuxLuthor]

The size of those (26650) is fine, but I would recommend you start looking for Lithium Manganese (IMR) or Lithium Iron Phosphate that both are designed for HIGH current output. That bulb will suck the living beejeebies out of the more common Lithium Cobalt cells.

Although my post is 5 years old, you can get some basic idea of the types of Lithium Chemistries Over the last few years, member HJK's battery posts and tests are more up to date.

 

[laser771]

The size of those (26650) is fine, but I would recommend you start looking for Lithium Manganese (IMR) or Lithium Iron Phosphate that both are designed for HIGH current output. That bulb will suck the living beejeebies out of the more common Lithium Cobalt cells.

Although my post is 5 years old, you can get some basic idea of the types of Lithium Chemistries Over the last few years, member HJK's battery posts and tests are more up to date.

Thank you so much! helps alot!