Problem w/tk11-r2

[fenixmad]

As i said in a previous post, this is the Circuit not the batteries, one thing i noticed about my TK10 though it had a yellowish (and i don't like yellow) tint to it, so much so compared to my LD10 and P2D it had a puke looking color...

Does your TK11 by any chance also have a more than yellow tint to it? as now they changed the head it's a pure white beam much much better now it gives my PD30 a yellowish tint to it lol

 

[garnish]

Wow. Thanks for tracking this down John! I've sent mail to Emily (who coincidentally also managed to get hold of my wife at home)...

So is this a common problem with TK-11's? I know fenixmad reports it but a few others have as well on CPF...

 

[garnish]

Does your TK11 by any chance also have a more than yellow tint to it? as now they changed the head it's a pure white beam much much better now it gives my PD30 a yellowish tint to it lol

no. Seems pretty white but this is my first expensive flashlight so I have no way to compare...

 

[Marduke]

As i said in a previous post, this is the Circuit not the batteries,

And you know this how?

Hell, it started out being calling "defective" with dead batteries.

I have yet to see even a mention of trying primaries, or conducting maintenance, or troubleshooting the mechanics of how the light changes modes.

Is the pill tight? Are the turbo contacts cleaned and checked? Is the correct part of the light even being turned?

Until these most basic of questions are answered, the most likely answers, in order, are:

1) Bad and/or wrong cells

2) User error

 

[garnish]

Maybe you didn't see the part where I said:

I also tried tightening the bezel all the way, then inserting the battery and then the end-cap per another suggestion. I also cleaned the ring contact with some light emery cloth per yet another suggestion.

I said that in my original post. Also, I didn't use the word "defective". I said "problem with". I choose my words carefully; please don't alter them and put them back in my mouth.

Is the correct part of the light even being turned?

Since I reported that it _was_ working just fine for a few weeks and then just a couple days ago, it stopped working, one could probably assume I would remember which part of the light to turn. This might be my first expensive flashlight, but I'm not a retard.

1) Bad and/or wrong cells

I reported that I followed the dead-battery suggestion, charged my battery and confirmed it still isn't working. I charged the battery using my Zantrex XFR-35 using the CC/CV curve as specified in the datasheet for the battery.

Since it was working and now isn't, I think we can safely rule out "wrong cell"...

Pretty sure there aren't any "basic questions" remaining, do you?

John and his associate Emily are taking good care of me now. Woohoo j2ledflashlight.com!

 

[Marduke]

Pretty sure there aren't any "basic questions" remaining, do you?

I have highlighted the basic questions you have not addressed.

I have yet to see even a mention of trying primaries, or conducting maintenance, or troubleshooting the mechanics of how the light changes modes.

Is the pill tight? Are the turbo contacts cleaned and checked? Is the correct part of the light even being turned?

The pill of the TK11 can screw out if the loctite is released. No mention of checking the pill has been made.

 

[garnish]

I said I cleaned the turbo contact ring. I confirmed it was clean. I knew to do this because I examined the mechanics of the turbo mode and came to understand that the ring is pulled to gnd which obviously activates the turbo mode. So by stating that I cleaned the contact ring, you should have deduced that I did so by way of understanding the mechanism not just as a random stab in the dark. As an aside, I bench tested the head of the lamp with my power supply and pulled the turbo ring down to ground just to confirm it wasn't the chassis. I chose not to mention that because I didn't think it was important to itemize my every step.

Don't know what you mean by "primaries". You mean CR123's instead of an 18650? My bench-test ruled out battery state (at least in my mind).

I don't know what a 'pill' is. You got me there. Guess I'm a retard afterall.

 

[fenixmad]

Nah you're not a retard it's the circuit, fenix emailed me back almost instantly not even bothering with the cleaning part, for the simple reason even if it was dirty it would still flicker to high as you twist and tighten regardless and since it worked fine at one point not long ago that can safely be ruled out, I used my TK10 on high for about 5 minutes turned it to low and put it on the shelf by next day I refused to go into high, no flicker no nothing threads perfectly cleaned even my Dealer said just send it back they know this is a common fault with the TK10/TK11 I got that impression from both Fenix and my Dealer.