It was not immediately clear to me how to use deoxit and progold. It looks like deoxit is used to clean contacts, and is wiped off. Progold is left on to protect the contact? Will this stuff work on older flashlights with copper contacts?
Progold/deoxit
- Thread starter bill7695
- Start date
I use Deoxit everyday in the electronics repair business. I typically clean the contacts in question, if possible, then apply Deoxit. I have not found ProGold to be useful. Yes, it will certainly help copper contacts as long as there is an uninterrupted film. But, copper being very reactive, periodic cleanings will be necessary. There is also a Deoxit grease, L260Np, that I have just begun to use in some applications. This may be a better solution, as it should stay put. I use Deoxit for virtually every type of contact, gold, silver, copper, carbon resistive tracks (pots), connectors, you name it. It has served me well for many years in my business.
Sub_Umbra
Flashlight Enthusiast
Deoxit first, then Progold. I've had very good results with these products using them not only on lights but also XLR cables all kinds of electronic equipment.
I have read one report (here at cpf) by a guy who slopped around too much Deoxit too often and the resulting overexposure softened the circuit board. I'm pretty careful with it and have never had any problems like that.
I have read one report (here at cpf) by a guy who slopped around too much Deoxit too often and the resulting overexposure softened the circuit board. I'm pretty careful with it and have never had any problems like that.
Echo63
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for reminding me !
I need to get some more deoxit - i used the last little bit in my spraycan the other day
I need to get some more deoxit - i used the last little bit in my spraycan the other day
I find DeOxit Gold works best in a sealed environment like the inside of your flashlight. The less exposure to the outside the better.
I have seen some improvement with lights I've treated that are meant for leaving in the vehicle or as "just in case" lights -- the ones that don't get used often. When I've checked them they seem to do better than a light that wasn't treated.
That's a pretty limited purpose since we all tend to use our lights and will be changing batteries as needed but it works in that niche for me.
I still use Gold for the contacts in most of my lights after that unscientific testing. Even if it only adds a bit of peace of mind it certainly can't hurt.
All I do is spray the contacts with cleaner, allow several minutes for it to dry and then spray with DeOxit Gold and allow that to dry for several minutes as well.
Unless the contacts are really grundgy I don't need to wipe them down.
If the contacts are nasty I'll first use a cotton swab and if that doesn't work I'll use a pencil eraser to gently clean the contact(s).
If they're still dirty after that I'll clean the contacts with a piece of an emery board -- they're used for buffing finger nails. Works great.
Once the contacts are visibly clean then I'll apply the DeOxit and the ProGold.
Be sure to allow several minutes for each of them to dry before you apply the other and also allow them to dry for a few minutes before you put the batteries in and put the light back together.
I have seen some improvement with lights I've treated that are meant for leaving in the vehicle or as "just in case" lights -- the ones that don't get used often. When I've checked them they seem to do better than a light that wasn't treated.
That's a pretty limited purpose since we all tend to use our lights and will be changing batteries as needed but it works in that niche for me.
I still use Gold for the contacts in most of my lights after that unscientific testing. Even if it only adds a bit of peace of mind it certainly can't hurt.
All I do is spray the contacts with cleaner, allow several minutes for it to dry and then spray with DeOxit Gold and allow that to dry for several minutes as well.
Unless the contacts are really grundgy I don't need to wipe them down.
If the contacts are nasty I'll first use a cotton swab and if that doesn't work I'll use a pencil eraser to gently clean the contact(s).
If they're still dirty after that I'll clean the contacts with a piece of an emery board -- they're used for buffing finger nails. Works great.
Once the contacts are visibly clean then I'll apply the DeOxit and the ProGold.
Be sure to allow several minutes for each of them to dry before you apply the other and also allow them to dry for a few minutes before you put the batteries in and put the light back together.
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Captain Obvious here, emery boards, sand paper, pencil erasers, etc. will remove surface material which is great for dealing with serious corrosion to bring back a dead machine, but should be used as a last resort as you'll grind off any gold electroplating or other treatments applied at the factory to improve conduction...
I only mention it because it's the sort of bone headed mistake I've made in the past, being "thorough".
I only mention it because it's the sort of bone headed mistake I've made in the past, being "thorough".
Yes, gold is very, very soft.
However, for most purposes it should not tarnish or corrode unless it is exposed to some chemical contamination.
Also not all flashlights use gold for their contacts on the springs, battery terminals, etc.
Lastly, use any abrasive gently as I said before.
Under those conditions you shouldn't have any problems.
The basic idea is to work gently and try to do the least amount of potential harm. Start with the most gentle/softest material and the work up gradually.
There are a lot of folks on this planet who when cleaning the house will grab the bead blaster when a feather duster might just be a better choice.
However, for most purposes it should not tarnish or corrode unless it is exposed to some chemical contamination.
Also not all flashlights use gold for their contacts on the springs, battery terminals, etc.
Lastly, use any abrasive gently as I said before.
Under those conditions you shouldn't have any problems.
The basic idea is to work gently and try to do the least amount of potential harm. Start with the most gentle/softest material and the work up gradually.
There are a lot of folks on this planet who when cleaning the house will grab the bead blaster when a feather duster might just be a better choice.
Guilty, now reformed.
__philippe
Enlightened
Sub_Umbra
Flashlight Enthusiast
I mostly use the pens but the liquids are very handy in tight places when applied with a long hat pin.
I've read that the pens may be refilled through the tips with the liquids, but I've never tried it..
I've read that the pens may be refilled through the tips with the liquids, but I've never tried it..
