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Doug Owen said:
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IsaacHayes said:
ah, that high won't be perceveable. Do they use this PWM to overdrive the led more than they could with constant on?
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Hey, please don't try to tell me what I didn't see.
And I just checked my Derringer and Eclipse in a dim room without the string trick. Both are clearly visible.
I assume you're guessing? That is have never tried it?
And no, I know in the case of the Derringer at least bright is 100% duty cycle, mid about 30% and Dim a bit over 5% 'cuz I measured them. FWIW there's no energy storage element (usually an inductor) in the Derringer, just the IC, switch and a single cap across the battery.
To be technically correct, we probably shouldn't call it a PWM controller, but a duty cycle one (it's open loop, right?).
Anyway dimming is in fact done by on and off switching, at rates you can observe (at least for these two lights). At least from what I've *seen*.
Doug Owen
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PWM is PWM, whether closed loop or open. PWM and duty cycle variation are essentially the same thing.
There is *one* advantage of increasing the current and reducing the duty cycle - While white LEDs are much less susceptible to color changes when dimmed by current reduction as compared to incandescents, some LEDs (esp. Luxeons) will change color somewhat as the current is increased/decreased. Underdriven Luxeons are more likely to be a "greenie", overdriven ones more likely to have a bluish tint. (I'm guessing due to nonlinear responses of the phosphor.)
As such, if you have a LED with slight green tendencies, you may be able to fix it by increasing current and decreasing duty cycle. But doing it for the sake of efficiency won't work.