Quark AA2 Tactical goes out

[JohnR66]

I have it programmed for high, head loose and turbo, head tight. When head is loose and I bump it or push down on it the light may blink and go out. Actually it is a very dim sub moon mode like output. Turning off and back on restores it to normal. Why?

 

[Zendude]

Sounds like bad continuity through the threads. What kind of lube are you using? Try it with no lube just as a test.

If that makes no difference, try programming it to a lower level.

 

[Rocketman]

Another example of why a simple twist-on twist-off mechanism is no replacement for a real switch.

 

[Per-Sev]

I have a Turbo and I know when I loosen the head a small amount and apply pressure to the head I can change modes because of the play in the threads so if I put to much pressure when I turn the head it can do some weird things.

 

[Ragiska]

this undocumented "ultra moon mode" happens with fenix also, among others. it's an artifact of the way it switches modes.

if you do it often you will break the light eventually.

 

[Rocketman]

Maybe you should order another O ring that is perhaps thicker that will tighten up the head. My Jetbeam came missing an O ring and I ordered a batch from an online store. I ordered silicon O rings. I'm using Super Lube on my O rings and threads.

 

[JaguarDave-in-Oz]

I have it programmed for high, head loose and turbo, head tight. When head is loose and I bump it or push down on it the light may blink and go out. Actually it is a very dim sub moon mode like output. Turning off and back on restores it to normal. Why?

if you play around with it you'll actually find at least two different levels of "sub-moon" mode on it. At least that's the way one of my tacticals is.

 

[fisk-king]

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=3132574


Ragiska is right, I wouldn't do it alot:faint:


but it is cool though:)

 

[Zendude]

Another example of why a simple twist-on twist-off mechanism is no replacement for a real switch.

Well....it does use a switch.;) Tighten/loosen is for changing modes.

This UI style has been successfully implemented in countless lights.

 

[jcw122]

Are you sure your not putting it into programming mode? That's what it kinda sounds like.

 

[JohnR66]

Thanks for the replies. I never lubed it. It is pretty new. I use a single AAA as my edc, This quark is my "special purpose" light. It is the brightedst light I have and I only use it every now and then. I discovered this phenomenon by accident when I was using it and bumped it into something. This seems to lock up it's little cpu brain as nothing will get it out of sub moon outside of turning it off and back on again.

I guess it is not a serious issue, I just wanted to find out what others knew about it. Since it is not unique to my light, I guess I'm okay with it.
John

 

[JaguarDave-in-Oz]

Are you sure your not putting it into programming mode? That's what it kinda sounds like.

I don't know if it sounds that way when reading about it but when it's in front of you and you see it it's nothing like the normal programming mode. Access is repeatable and the torch'll stay lit in that mode, unlike programming mode which will switch itself out after a period.

These extra modes are two brightness levels that are less than a quarter of the brightness of "moon-mode".

As for comments in that other thread about wearing the threads, I reckon threads would wear more from screwing and unscrewing. On my ones if you have the head unscrewed the correct amount you don't need to press hard, just a very light touch on the end does it for me and that's not going to wear my threads. Whether using ultra dim mode has some mysterious electrical effect on the circuit I can't say though.

 

[JaguarDave-in-Oz]

I suppose it's probably also worth noting that doing the same thing brings about a different result when you do it on a Quark "regular" to what we see here with the "tacticals".

 

[glockboy]

Is the battery fit tight or loose?

 

[JaguarDave-in-Oz]

I discovered this phenomenon by accident when I was using it and bumped it into something. This seems to lock up it's little cpu brain as nothing will get it out of sub moon outside of turning it off and back on again.

I've even managed to do it in such a combination that even turning it off and on again won't get it out. I've had to open it up to disconnect battery power.

I guess it is not a serious issue, I just wanted to find out what others knew about it. Since it is not unique to my light, I guess I'm okay with it.

No, it's not unique. All my tacticals do it but they won't do it on all my battery tubes. That seems to be the battery tubes that have a slightly larger diameter O ring land and the heads sit much more rigidly on them and I don't seem able to manipulate the really short duration momentary flash on the head that's required to slip into this sub-moon mode.

 

[shark_za]

I have seen this one mine too.
Its like the contacts on the square threads stop for a little and it happens then the bezel is just not making contact with the tight mode surface.

Just make sure to twist the bezel about a 1/4 turn and then mine does not do this.

 

[bstrickler]

I have it programmed for high, head loose and turbo, head tight. When head is loose and I bump it or push down on it the light may blink and go out. Actually it is a very dim sub moon mode like output. Turning off and back on restores it to normal. Why?

I have mine set up the same way, and recently started having that same exact problem. Doesn't matter what batteries you do. You don't even have to press on the head. If it gets tapped slightly sometimes, it'll do it.

One thing I've done to help reduce its frequency of visits, is take the tailcap off, tighten the hell out of the switch retaining ring, move on to the body, try to slide the clip to the other side of the body, while tightening the ring that holds that in, then screwing the tailcap back on, and tightening it up. It does it about 1/2 as often now. I now replace the batteries through the head of the flashlight, to avoid having to re-tighten the tailcap every time, and risking galling (cold welding, or torque welding) the threads.

~Brian