Quark electronics into a Fenix??

Gather App
Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

L

LEDburn

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
265
Hey guys I'm new here but have been looking on for a while and have subsequently purchased a few lights. All are good, but none are great.

I started with LED Lensers and quickly moved onto a Fenix LD10 and now I've got a Quark tactical.

This is where my problems start. I bought the Fenix as it was a major upgrade to my Lenser; regulation, better beam etc. The reason I bought the Quark was due to having moonlight and not having to cycle through all the modes all the time with the tactical, also support for 14500.

So..here we go..after having a look at the electronics for them both they look very similar: I even noticed a reviewer said something along the same lines.

So does anyone know if they are in fact the same dimensions?

I'm sure you know where I'm going with this...I love the Quark but it's only problem is the threads. I cannot stand the threads on my Quark; my Fenix on the other hand has absolutely beautiful threads and even looks a tad better overall IMO.

What I want to do is to take the electronics out of my Quark, put them in the Fenix head and swap out the reverse clicky for a forward clicky in the Fenix tail.
This will essentially give me all I want as of now; nice threads, nice body, regulation and 14500 support..

Anyone thought about this, know if it's possible or if you think it's just an epic :fail:

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Even if you know how to get the electronics out of the heads that would be a great help and I'll try and work out the rest on my own...
 
Cheers for that - was it very difficult to take the Quark head apart; any tips on tools to use etc?
 
I'd say the difficulty depends on your skill level. Applying heat can help with separating the head, but it can also cause the epoxy to break free from the driver at the same time. If that's what your trying to accomplish that's fine, but if you want to keep the driver in place, it's best done without heat. Use the body tube with the clip removed. This adds support on the threaded end of the head. Use two pairs of channel-locks with a piece of leather in each jaw, grip each head half and twist counterclockwise. It's not quite as easy as it sounds, but you just have to try it. Someone probably makes a $30-40 tool for this, but you'd have to buy two of them, so I just stick with what I have. Oh yeah, for obvious reasons, you want to make sure the leather stays between the jaws of the channel-locks and the head :D. Just take your time; you caaannn dooo iitttt.
 
Last edited:
Thick rubber and a metal hose clamp are a good option too. With this method the majority of the clamping pressure is from the hose clamp (no worries of bite-through with the sharp tips of the pliers jaws).
 
Awesome, thanks again! I'll try with some pieces of bike tube as I've got heaps of them lying around and they should provide sufficient grip and protection I believe.

I'll take some pictures along the way and if all goes well I'll post them with my results up here..might be a few weeks so I'll let you all know when I've tried.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top