Questions for HDS owners

[Budman231]

I have really enjoyed my Novatac lights over the years. I understand Novatacs have the same design roots as the current HDS lights. I am close to purchasing an HDS light now and have a couple questions.

1. I mostly use my lights indoors so throw is not all that important. Hot spots tend to over expose near to medium distance targets for me. Is there an HDS light that is more flood than throw ?
2. What emitter would you suggest for indoor use ?
3. Clicky... Does it work similar to Novatacs Single, double, triple click interface ?
4. I like a raised (tactical) button. Is the HDS raised button like the Novatac's ? (Height and positive feeling click)
5. Is the sapphire lens worth the extra money (opinions welcomed) ?

Thanks in advance.
Bud

 

[think2x]

1. XP-G (HDS 200 or HCRI have this emitter) I use a diffuser(water bottle lid) on mine.
2. Same as #1
3. Yes
4. Yes
5. IMO no but I have no experience with one either, the standard lens serves me just fine.

 

[mrlysle]

Hi Budman231.
Your solution is extremely simple! Get the HDS rotary. It uses the XP-G, (so no choices here), it's available with the raised button, and unless it's personal peice of mind, even Henry says the sapphire isn't really worth the extra cost. Interface is similar to the Novatac, but the extra rotary control makes the HDS superior. You mentioned about the "hotspot" bothering you up close? With the rotary you can just "dial in" the perfect light level for the task at hand. Good luck and if you get one, let everyone know what you think. Personally, I think you'll love it like most of us do! :devil:

 

[shane45_1911]

Since the others questions are answered nicely above, I will add to #5 only...

5) No, there is no advantage to a sapphire lens. Even Henry says so. It adds some bragging rights I suppose, but there is no functional advantage and may even be a disadvantage in some instances. Sapphire lens are more brittle than glass, and may shatter easier under impact. They are harder than glass which means they won't scratch as easily however.

 

[write2dgray]

And be prepared for a 6+ week wait if ordering direct. These hot potatoes are backordered ATM.

 

[Snareman]

The older 170's with the GDP emitter had a more focused hotspot but now all the lights use the XP-G which is more diffuse. Unless you are super crazy hard on your lights, which most indoor stuff likely won't be, I can't imagine the sapphire would give you any benefit for the money. I just got a rotary which would probably be perfect for you if you want an HDS. Its super easy to twist the cap to get whatever brightness you need. Try and find one instock somewhere like Batterystation and you'll cut your wait time down to just a few days.

 

[AnAppleSnail]

Unless you are super crazy hard on your lights, which most indoor stuff likely won't be, I can't imagine the sapphire would give you any benefit for the money.

My philosophy when ordering was, 'I am paying good money for a light that will shrug off minor inconveniences.' My Quark has done good service, but picked up a fair number of scratches from encountering dust, mud, grit, and other things. Normally I'd rinse it, but sometimes all I had was a mud-covered light window and a shirt - and a need to see. I'll report on the sapphire lens and let y'all know if it chips during my use. I'm not TOO abusive of lights, so I don't expect it.

 

[SaVaGe]

Hi Budman231.
Your solution is extremely simple! Get the HDS rotary. It uses the XP-G, (so no choices here), it's available with the raised button, and unless it's personal peice of mind, even Henry says the sapphire isn't really worth the extra cost. Interface is similar to the Novatac, but the extra rotary control makes the HDS superior. You mentioned about the "hotspot" bothering you up close? With the rotary you can just "dial in" the perfect light level for the task at hand. Good luck and if you get one, let everyone know what you think. Personally, I think you'll love it like most of us do! :devil:

+1 good answer

 

[HotWire]

I vote for the rotary. I have 3 HDS (all with sapphire lenses) All three are great lights and you can see the Novatac greatness in their heritage. No problems of any kind with the three of them. The rotary is very nice because of the extremely low output when wanted. No scratches or cracks in the sapphire lenses.

 

[Tommygun45]

Get the rotary and an f04 diffuser from overready. Its 19 shipped. Or just use a waterbottle cap. You will never need another flashlight. Well of course youll buy more but the rotary is just the best light going right now. I think at least.

 

[eh4]

What is the source for info about the sapphire being more brittle than glass? Everything that I've read has stated that sapphire is more thermally stable, much harder, and has greater elasticity (less brittle) than glass, as well as passing a slightly wider spectrum of light and being a better thermal conductor.
-with the heat conduction and wide spectrum transmission there may be an added benefit for a high CRI led and playing with filters, red and IR for instance.
The only downsides that I've found researching are slightly less light transmission than treated optical glass and a bit higher cost.

+1 to the muddy shirt treatment, I have not intention of abusing the lens like that but it happens sometimes, usually when you really, really need to see.
Sapphire is an optical quality crystalline form of aluminum oxide... I really like that for the business end of an aluminum flashlight for some reason.

http://www.rayotek.com/techincal_info_glass_sapphire.htm#q1

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sapphire#Transparent_and_tough

 

[OCD]

For $27 for a new glass lense from Henry (that includs shipping), IF I ever scratch my glass lens I can order a brand new one for $4 less than the sapphire costs when ordered with a light and I will have a brand new lense. And that covers the "if" I ever scratch it.

 

[derfyled]

For indoor, I would suggest you try to find an older one that uses a Seoul led (SSCP4). They are plenty bright for inside and the beam is the floodiest one that HDS ever did. The hotspot is blended to the point where it's hard to determine where it ends compared to the spill. It's by far the most uniform beam I've seen for an HDS and I tried LUX III, SSC, GD, XP-G and XM-L mod.

The XML also give good results but it's a modified one, not a stock.

 

[AZPops]

I know you guys think I ***** about certain aspects of the process of ordering things directly from Henry. I may be more vocal then most, but that’s just how I feel about these type of situations.

Having said that, Henry’s lights just plain work! So IMO as long as the brain stay’s online, this is the type of light that will be in service for a long time.

When you purchase a Clicky (or at a later date), you have the ability to purchase an option in how you plan on carrying or using the light, e.g. raised or flush tail cap. This will give you the ability to change it’s physical profile when you decide to carry it in a different way such as if you wear a glove.

For example, I install the raised tail cap when I holster carry my 170T and the flush tail cap when I clip it to my pocket. The reason for changing the tail cap is I found the light clicking on several times in my pocket when I had the raised tail cap installed. When it did, the light got pretty hot!

However, I don’t have this option for my Rotary and since I ordered the raised tail cap (as well as not having a proper clip for it), it’s designated as a holstered carry. If there is a option to purchase a flush tail cap body, I’ll more then likely purchase it.

Another thing I found, as mentioned by a few members. That the XP-G’s larger hot spot and spill has a much better overall user beam profile (if I’m describing it correctly). I wouldn’t describe it as a total flood because it does throw some light. The GDP has a more of a dedicated beam profile that’ll give you more distance if needed, so it’s has a tighter hot spot.

This may sound stupid, but when we’re on property and the dogs are on their free time. I much rather have the XP-G on me if I’m looking for the older dog (the younger one is well trained and has excellent recall. His sister on the other hand “The Vicious Attack Dog“, well she‘s 12, so she‘s getting a bit of Alzheimer’s. Since she’s black she disappears real quick … LOL), as well as if I’m checking the ground to see if I missed picking up one of their craps!

Anyways, IMO HDS lights are meant to be used, and designed IMO to handle a situation where it gets treated extremely rough, but will still come to life after being treated in this manner. This is why IMO, a few dings, dents or scratches on a HDS are only character marks!

The way I use my HDS’s, both lights think their on vacation in the Bahamas or sun bathing on the beach below Diamondhead. Both looking for that tight bodied Twisty wearing that micro bikini!... LOL

When you decide to purchase a HDS, I don’t think you’ll regret your decision in doing so. However one advantage you'll have should you decide the HDS is not for you. You won’t have difficulty selling it on the secondary market, as well as not taking the type of hit (or loss) you would if it was anther manufacture’s light.

Good Luck!
　
　

 

[greatscoot]

After looking for a good EDC, I picked up and HDS Rotary several months ago to replace my SF E1B. This is one fantastic light. Like you I use this primarliy indoors and in close spaces which makes the adjustable nature of this light really special. I chose the raised button for ease of use and carry this in my pocket every day. I have not had it turn on accidentally yet.

 

[tobrien]

this thread makes me unable to wait to order my clicky 200 soon!

 

[Budman231]

Thanks to all that replied. There was a time when I thought spending $200 on a flashlight was nuts, but over time I've purchased a lot of lights and found that the ones I valued the most were those that were made well, rugged, and work when I need them. My novatac lights are probably the best built light I own to date. With all I've read, here and in other threads.. the HDS will most likely be a long term keeper for me.. (right next to my LF3XT :thumbsup:).

Still torn on the Clicky and Rotary though. Wasn't a big fan of the V10R because of the 2 handed operation.

Bud

 

[notsofast]

Still torn on the Clicky and Rotary though. Wasn't a big fan of the V10R because of the 2 handed operation.

Bud

I am confused, V10R takes two hands, how?

You have to change positions with grip but it is all done with one hand.

 

[someguy4747]

Still torn on the Clicky and Rotary though. Wasn't a big fan of the V10R because of the 2 handed operation.

Bud

I was worried about my Rotary being a two handed light as well. I have twisty lights like the quark minis(aa2) and ld01's and I can use those lights one handed but when it comes to actually using the lights(not playing with them) I always use two hands. The rotary I can use with one hand and I actually use it with one hand. The threads are super smooth and for me it truly is a one handed light and my first (functionally)one handed light at that. However, I have no experience with the V10R. Hope that helps.

 

[Budman231]

I am confused, V10R takes two hands, how?

You have to change positions with grip but it is all done with one hand.

I tend to hold my lights with my arm vertical (elbow down) shining the beam from the shoulder not the waist. Not sure why I prefer this but with a clicky I can use my thumb to change modes easily. With a rotary style dimmer like the V10R (near the head), changing brightness was near impossible.

The fact that the HDS has the dimmer in the tail cap might make all the difference.. It is in the tail cap.. right ?

Bud