Ra Clicky hack?

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strideredc

Enlightened
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Dec 13, 2006
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After reading about people doing led swaps on HDS edc’s (I did myself) and ra clickys.
The point always comes up that by putting in a new led it wont be calibrated?

The questions is can anyone calibrate these lights to the new led’s?:shrug:
 
After reading about people doing led swaps on HDS edc’s (I did myself) and ra clickys.
The point always comes up that by putting in a new led it wont be calibrated?

The questions is can anyone calibrate these lights to the new led’s?:shrug:

I wouldn't worry about it. For what it's worth, I've always felt the output calibration was pointless since even 30% difference in output is borderline differentiable by eye. Most people say you need at least a 50% difference to begin to tell the difference in output. Now 30% or 50% of runtime is a HUGE difference that is easily noticed by everyone. I think it is better for manufacturers to calibrate the current so everyone has nearly the same runtime because without instrumentation, it is really hard to tell the difference between 100lumens vs 120lumens, but 100min vs 120min is significant.
 
The questions is can anyone calibrate these lights to the new led’s?:shrug:

Not unless there was a way to attach a data cable to the electronics and manipulate the flashlight's internal software via a program on a computer system.

Just by looking at the accessible areas on the inside of the head, besides those four little solder patches, I'm not quite sure where the I/O port would be. Secondly, the electronics are potted, which would make removing them out of the body very difficult, I imagine. (edit: perhaps not removing, but accessing the surface of the electronics, since they'd be covered with the potting substance)

Since these lights use constant power, you could measure the vF of the original LED, then find the vF on the new LED you want to install. If they're close, then calibration will hypothetically be the same/similar.
 
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Like Enzo said you would need to solder a data cable to somewhere and also have Henry's software, which I assume he wrote himself, so probably not possible without him.

Still it's no big deal, if your light doesn't output exactly 140lm on high, who cares?
 
Since these lights use constant power, you could measure the vF of the original LED, then find the vF on the new LED you want to install. If they're close, then calibration will hypothetically be the same/similar.[/quote]

good thinking, but how do you measure the vF on the old and new LED?

could i do this on my basic digi multi meter?
 
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