Regulated lights which will still switch on with half-dead batteries?

[E=MC2]

My D10, which I wrote about last year, just isn't cutting it for my work. I'm not sure if it's defective or not (it fires up on fresh Eneloops, but not on ones that have been used for 10 minutes, then put away for a day with the light switched off - very disappointing, and I feel like I wasted 50 bucks, but I guess it's out of warranty now and not worth sending in). It's just not a light I would trust at all, unless I could somehow carry a bucket (and yes, I would probably need a bucket) of fresh batteries with me.

Anyway, the question is, is there anything in this size range which is more high-end than a maglight which doesn't require you to have a supply of fresh batteries on hand every time you want to use it? And doesn't cost $200? I was looking at the Fenix lights (e.g. the L1T) and the Quark AA, but I'm just looking for input on whether I'm going to be throwing money down the drain again based on my expectations, or whether these are going to be lights which will switch on every time, even if in moon mode or half-power etc.
Actually being able to switch on and provide some light, even with 30% battery charge, takes ultimate priority for me, rather than high power.

Any input welcome! Thanks.

 

[Gunner12]

That sounds weird. I don't have a D10 or Eneloops but you light doesn't seem to be acting normally.

Many regulated lights even turn on with an almost dead battery, just much dimmer then with a fresh battery. What else would you like the light to have besides the ability to light up on low batteries.

 

[Buckley]

Based upon your description, your D10 is almost certainly defective. I own both Fenix and Quark flashlights, and any of them will sit for weeks (and probably months) without being used, then light reliably.

I would recommend that you purchase either the Fenix or Quark of your choice from 4sevens.com, and if it does not perform as advertised you can return or exchange it without hassle.

 

[E=MC2]

Thanks for the replies!
Buckley, I'm strongly considering it, but I'll have to read up a bit more on the rough threads on the 4Sevens lights (I'm assuming this applies to the Quark as well as the Preon), as I'm not willing to spend $50 for something unless it looks and feels pretty special

Gunner, I'm looking for something with a simple UI (or at least easy to use, like the D10), and long battery life (I guess runtime and reliability are my primary concerns, along with price). I'm hesitant to go with a 'piston drive' light again, based on my experience.

I'm going to give it one final try with the contact cleaner, and then I guess I'll call it defective.

Cheers!

 

[Gunner12]

See if you can disassemble and clean the light that way. There was a thread on how to take it apart IIRC.

If a two mode light would do, look at the Eagletac lights or the iTP ones.

 

[carrot]

The only threads that are rough on the Quarks are the titanium ones, as titanium binds quite readily to itself and is difficult to machine fine threads on. They will smooth out after some use, and some come smooth from the factory (it is difficult to perfectly refine this process, but David says they have improved their processes with the introduction of the CR2 MiNi)

All the aluminum 4sevens lights I have tried are fantastic and very smooth to use.

 

[Moonshadow]

That's certainly not normal behaviour for a D10.

There was a batch last year that had a higher than usual battery drain. They were recalled but it is possible that you may have one of these.

If that is the case you may be able to get it replaced even if out of warranty. Got to be worth a try.

 

[PCC]

I can't speak for any of the other lights listed but I have had a Quark MiNi AA that I just gave to my daughter. On a tired old NiMH battery the light output will dim to the point where high is indistinguishable from medium. At this point the voltage is about .8 volts and it was my way of knowing that I needed to put the battery into the charger. In theory, it will drain a cell down a lot farther on low.

 

[HDS_Systems]

E=MC2,

Take a look at the HDS Systems/Ra Lights. They will still come on with nearly dead batteries. Take either link in the signature line below.

Henry.

 

[JWRitchie76]

E=MC2,

Take a look at the HDS Systems/Ra Lights. They will still come on with nearly dead batteries. Take either link in the signature line below.

Henry.

:twothumbs Sounds like you (OP) need an EDC 120!!!

 

[E=MC2]

Thanks for all the replies and recommendations.
It's certainly strange behaviour - I cleaned it last night, put in a fresh battery, and it ran perfectly on high for about 20 minutes. I then switched it off, and it switched on again just fine (on high). Then I switched it off, unscrewed the head a bit, and left it for about an hour or two. Screwed the head back down, pushed the tail to switch it on, and - surprise surprise - no dice. I don't get it.

I'll contact 4Sevens (that's where I bought it) and if that doesn't work, I'll try pulling it apart.

In the meantime, I guess now's a good time to pick up another light, with the Canadian dollar so high

 

[Swedpat]

I like regulated lights, because I want stable output. But I like when they continue to run direct drive until the battery is dead (though it's not good for recheargables). This is good when one in a case of emergency doesn't want to be left in the darkness. Fenix TK10, Olight M20 and Malkoff MD2 are examples of lights who continue to run direct drive several hours. Some lights can run with very low but usable light 10-20 hours or more after regulation. Which can be good to know if you don't need the full power.

Regards, Patric