Royal Blue Lux III bin codes.......

[edison]

I'm going to modify a Q3 by installing a RB Lux III star. Is R5K a decent bin? Since the Q3 is 1x123; how should I go about driving it? This light will be a gift for a friend. Since he's an avid bow hunter I'm sure he'll be thrilled.

 

[3rd_shift]

That is a great bin for a royal blue!
Use a normal cr123 battery to drive it though.
A rechargeable 3.7 volt should also work, but may run shorter, brighter and hotter.

 

[idleprocess]

R would be outside of white Luxeon III binning (S is the minimum) ... but I'm not familiar with relative standings for colored LEDs. Assuming near top-of-bin flux, and 3W actual power, "R" flux would be ~20% efficient.

Check out the "Luxeon binning" link in my signature if you want to know what the codes really mean.

Flux bins for royal/dental blue are in milliwatts of emitted power instead of lumens because the primary application is adhesive/epoxy-curing.

 

[edison]

Thanks 3rd shift. That's reassuring; since I already bought a few of these in the R5K bin. I may pick up a couple more.

So, for use with a primary 123 in a Q3 host, are you recommending direct drive or just replacement of the stock star with the R5K star while leaving the OE driver intact? (Sounds too good to be true.)

The "RBQ3" that I mod for myself will never see a R123 since I only use primary cells. I'll tell my buddy not to use R123 in his as well. Any other thoughts?

 

[3rd_shift]

Leave the stock circuit like it is and just swap the stars.
That's all there is to it in your case.
Good luck!

 

[edison]

CRAP. I just checked; the RB stars that I bought are binned N5K, not R5K like I thought. I don't know why I did that.

 

[3rd_shift]

Those are still good and will impress for sure /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif

 

[edison]

So.......you're saying that the stock Q3 circuit will work fine if I just swap the stock star for my N5K binned star?

Any guess as to what kind of runtime I can expect?

 

[LITEmania]

[ QUOTE ]
edison said:
my N5K binned star?

[/ QUOTE ]

Is it R5K or N5K ? I never seen R.Blue having R-flux. Even 5watter has Q-flux.

BTW, --K Vf-Bin is fine for R123. Fine for stock circuit, either.

 

[edison]

[ QUOTE ]
eTendue said:
Is it R5K or N5K ?

[/ QUOTE ]It's N5K. I apologize; I mistakenly posted an incorrect bin code.

Thanks to everyone for all the replies.

 

[IsaacHayes]

N i think is typical and will be plenty bright no worries. they aren't rated in lumens but millawatts or something because of the eyes repsonse to the color or something.

I have a N something RB in my dome light, and my god it's bright!!! Just replace the white with the RB and you're good to go!! it will be very cool!!

 

[enLIGHTenment]

To hijack this thread for a moment, what's involved in replacing the LED in a Q3? Is this a beginners mod or something for experts?

 

[LoneRebel]

Enlightenment:Oh it involves your normal every day activity of boiling your flashlights in water.

 

[idleprocess]

[ QUOTE ]
IsaacHayes said:
N i think is typical and will be plenty bright no worries. they aren't rated in lumens but millawatts or something because of the eyes repsonse to the color or something.

[/ QUOTE ]

Gosh, why is that?

Surely it has nothing to do with...
[ QUOTE ]
idleprocess said:
Flux bins for royal/dental blue are in milliwatts of emitted power instead of lumens because the primary application is adhesive/epoxy-curing.

[/ QUOTE ]

 

[enLIGHTenment]

@Edison: could you post some beamshots when you've done this mod? I'm looking to do the same thing to a Q-III but I'd like to see how it turns out first. Thanks.