Sandblast Preon 2 Question

[TheTomas]

I posted a response in this thread, but I don't think the OP of that thread is around anymore, so I was hoping I could get my question answered if I posted here.

I just ordered a Titanium Preon 2 from 4sevens (thanks for the Cpf8 coupon code!) And I'm planning to have it sandblasted to match the finish of my Sebenza and County Comm Embassy pen. What would be the best way to protect the lens of the light when I get it blasted?

If anyone has any experience sandblasting Ti (or other) lights, please let me know.

 

[TheTomas]

So I was pleasantly surprised to get my Preon 2 in the mail and find that it already had a satin finish, but after a week of carry, it's starting to wear much more harshly than my Embassy Pen, so i'm here to bump this thread in hopes of an answer. I need to know how to protect the lens of this light when I have it sandblasted to match my pen. Does anyone have any knowledge on this topic, or have a suggestion where I could post this question to get an answer?

Thank you.

 

[leon2245]

Guess you can't D.I.Y. with Ti like you can with S.S. (too bad they don't make diamond coated scotchbrite pads). Maybe ask over in the custom section to find someone offering Ti sandblasting services? Will probably cost you a few preons though.

>preon
>sebenza
>countycomm

:eek:

 

[TheTomas]

The sandblasting isn't the problem, I already have a great local shop that did my Embassy pen. I just don't wanna take my Preon in there and not have any way to protect the lens. The custom section will probably be my next stop, any other feedback I can get here would be appreciated, however.

Thank you.

 

[leon2245]

A pro shop will have a method of protecting the parts you don't want blasted. Or replace the lens afterward, or just enjoy the extra diffusion of a nice frosted lens?

 

[Jay R]

Can't replace the lens in a Preon. The head is potted.

 

[knifeMaker]

I do a lot of bead blasting here in the Knife Shop. I find that heavy grade duct tape, multi-layered, does a fine job of protecting what I don't want blasted!:thumbsup:

KnifeMaker

 

[dixemon]

The shop will have good recomendations. But i would say to use a thick piece of electrical tape finely cut with an exacto knife. depending on the medium used it should hold up pretty well.

 

[precisionworks]

What would be the best way to protect the lens of the light when I get it blasted?

If anyone has any experience sandblasting Ti (or other) lights, please let me know.

I glass bead blast quite a few lights for members, mostly Ti, and the easiest way to protect or mask is to fabricate a press fit Delrin sleeve. They make up quickly, taking about 15 - 20 minutes on the lathe. The big advantage of a custom fit Delrin sleeve is that it leaves a very sharp line of demarcation where the BB stops and the remainder of the light. Photos show this more clearly:

You certainly can use a tape material, but bead blast or sand blast is so aggressive that it will quickly eat away the tape & leave a less than perfect edge line. Ti takes quite a bit of air pressure (my normal setting is 110 psi) and even then the light doesn't abrade quickly, so it spends quite a while under the gun. The Delrin shields are the best I've found so far.

Even a super clean Delrin shield will often leave slight scratching on a polished light, so the parts not bead blasted are hand rubbed to a satin or patina finish. They could be brought to mirror finish, but mirror shows every tiny scratch & satin/patina hides those a lot more effectively.

 

[TheTomas]

That would be great, but I don't have access to a lathe or any Delrin. Thanks though.

 

[precisionworks]

That would be great, but I don't have access to a lathe or any Delrin. Thanks though.

Delrin comes up for sale on different forums from time to time. Or you can telephone McMaster Carr today & you will have it tomorrow. Take the delrin rod to any machine shop and they can easily make press fit caps.

If you do not protect the head and tail with an abrasive resistant material, you may not get the results you want. Your light will be in front of a high velocity stream of abrasive particles for at least 15 minutes. To assure complete coverage, the blasting gun has to spray every square inch of the surface - and it is really easy to miss a spot or two, which means another trip through the entire process.