Search And Rescue Headlamp Suggestions

[Tachead]

Here is my backcountry setup. The entire thing including 2 x 18650 headlamps, 2 x headbands with top straps, 2 x 3500mAh 18650's, and the carry case weighs in at 305 grams.

 

[Tachead]

Tint is important to me and I hate cool white beams. I was wondering how fenix compared to ZL. They do have a model that interests me.

Ok, then stay away from Petzl(they are great other then that though). Fenix makes pretty nice stuff but, they are definitely a step down in build quality and features(beam types, available modes, tint and CCT options, weight, etc.) compared to ZL. They do have pretty good quality still though, good customer service, and they make some nice headlamp models although not many are available in neutral white.

 

[Lumen83]

Here is my backcountry setup. The entire thing including 2 x 18650 headlamps, 2 x headbands with top straps, 2 x 3500mAh 18650's, and the carry case weighs in at 305 grams.

Nice Set up! I'll have to post mine when its complete. Right now its an older ZL floody cr123a. Not sure what model anymore. And, a yellow surefire g2X pro (the beam is a good combination of spill and throw for the distances I am searching and the 2 cr123a's are a good option for the temp range). I have a lot more powerful surefire hand helds but this one seems the best all around for the task. Cheapest too which is kind of funny. But, hey it works.

 

[Tachead]

Nice Set up! I'll have to post mine when its complete. Right now its an older ZL floody cr123a. Not sure what model anymore. And, a yellow surefire g2X pro (the beam is a good combination of spill and throw for the distances I am searching and the 2 cr123a's are a good option for the temp range). I have a lot more powerful surefire hand helds but this one seems the best all around for the task. Cheapest too which is kind of funny. But, hey it works.

Thanks, I normally just leave the batteries in the headlamps with the tail caps cracked. But, I threw that extra cell on top for size reference and to show that an extra 2 or 3 cells can fit in the case too in addition to the ones in the lights.

Nice setup too:thumbsup:

 

[Lumen83]

Checking out the zebraligt 18650s. Theres a lot to choose from. XHP35, High CR!, XML-2, XPH50.2. I have no idea what the differences are. And, what is considered neutral white? 4000K or 5000K?

 

[Tachead]

Checking out the zebraligt 18650s. Theres a lot to choose from. XHP35, High CR!, XML-2, XPH50.2. I have no idea what the differences are. And, what is considered neutral white? 4000K or 5000K?

That's a bit of a loaded question. And yes, ZL has a lot of models and options. Which is part of the reason why a lot of us like them so much.

The MK IV are the newest models and are available for pre-order. They start shipping in about a month, are the brightest, most efficient, and have the new fully programmable UI. They use different emitters depending on the model(I wont talk about the cool white models). "w" models use the XHP35 and are 4500K at 80+CRI. They are the standard neutral models. "c&d" are the High CRI models(93-95CRI) and are 4000 and 5000K respectively.

There isn't really a set definition for neutral white. They are all neutral really but, you have options. IMO the "w" 4500K is probably what most consider the most neutral but, is the lowest CRI and will have the most tint variation(tint lottery). The "c" 4000K will be towards the warm side of neutral and the "d" 5000K will be towards the cool side of neutral. The "c&d" will have the nicest tints and highest CRI.

Feel free to ask if you have any more questions or need further clarification of anything:thumbsup:.

 

[Lumen83]

Oh wow. Thanks for going into all that detail. Definitely leaning toward a ZL 18650 at this point. Just got to figure out which model. Any thoughts on how tight the beam or how pronounced the hot spot is on non-floods lights? Trying to figure out if I should go all flood or if I should go standard model. Seems like that kind of light would have a good amount of spill anyway.

 

[MX421]

Oh wow. Thanks for going into all that detail. Definitely leaning toward a ZL 18650 at this point. Just got to figure out which model. Any thoughts on how tight the beam or how pronounced the hot spot is on non-floods lights? Trying to figure out if I should go all flood or if I should go standard model. Seems like that kind of light would have a good amount of spill anyway.

I have a H602w and a H600w (MK2 i think).

The breakdown of the beams is as follows:
H600(w): This is as much of a throw that the headlamps will throw, they most likely will go out to 100 to perhaps 150m would be my guess although it wouldn't be lit up much after that.
H600F(w): This is basically the H600 with a frosted lens to even out the hotspot. Although i don't have one, i would think the beam pattern might be similar to my Wizard which has a "checkered" pattern instead of a fner frosting. Check out the thread on the lenses cracking though and make your own call on that. I've almost been talked into trying this lens, but then i'm now a Zebralight junkie and need a fix from time to time
H60X(w): Flood beam, almost a mule. Basically the reflector is a GITD reflector. No hotspot, just one even beam throughout the 120 degree range. X=2 thru 4 now.

Few other things...the 'w' designates warm, The newer models have warm around 4500k, but the older models like my H602w are around 4000k. I found i really like warm tints, so the 4000k is nice, but i like warmer than that. Since the newer models are coming out, the older models are on sale now. Even though they are on backorder, you can get a H602w for close to $50 now!. The H603w is $10 off and of course the new models are full price. For seeing the close proximity around you, the H60X might be good, especially if you have a thrower to complement it. Even with its sheer power, it will not throw out past 10 to 20 feet or so or if it does it lights up everything closeby and causes to much glare to see beyond it. When i work in the yard, i wear the H602w around my neck for close up light and a H600w as a bonafide headlamp with the beam pointing where i want to see in the near distance. I like my handheld throwers a whole lot though and the H600w can't touch them. There are lots of threads about Zebralights, but you should check out the one where they mod them, there are some interesting ways people have come up with to make their lights more practical. These idea can also be applied to other lights. I could go on, but I better stop for now before i popen up a window and order the H604c Zebralight I've been drooling over.

Back to Armytek. Even though i'd had bad luck with the headlamps, i've had really good luck with the handheld lights. I keep wanting to give them a try and indeed i do carry the wizard from time to time, i just have the Zebralight with me to ensure i have light...lol. The Armyteks will take 2 CR123s so that would be a reason to still consider them.

I also have a Fenix HP12 that i liked quite a bit before i got the H602w. It now resides as a backup though. It also can take 2 X CR123s so it might be worth considering. They don't come out of the headband though so its not a light you can carry separate from the headband which is why mine doesn't get used that much. The beam profile on the HP12 is similar to the H600, but it is a cooler tint.

I hear good things about Nitecore and even Olight. The Olihts i have are much cooler than i prefer.

Hope this helps.

 

[eh4]

For a dedicated headlamp, the Zebralight H600F (floody) models are great, they don't throw quite as far as the clear lens versions, but they do a very good job of blending the hotspot with the spill while still giving most of the range of the hotspot that the clear lens version provides.
The pure flood versions are much too specialized, they're awesome for working at arm's length in the dark, using power tools in the dark, etc, but they give a pronounced dim zone in your central view because your peripheral vision works well with less light, while your central focal area benefits from more light, the floody (F) models hit that balance nicely.
With an old, discounted H600Fw MK II, you can get nearly 30 hours of 60 lumens.
Also, if you check the version details, the newer ones accept up to 6 volts input, which means that you could use 2 CR123 primary cells in place of an 18650 in a pinch.

For reliability, don't mess around with Armytek til they get their act together, imo.
ZL are light and strong, meticulously designed, and the one year warranty is 60+X longer than you need to find out if you've got one of the rare lemons...
The Armytek 10 year "No,... (it's a real) Hassle" warranty doesn't hold a candle to ZL customer service.

There was a short window of time where a few people here were getting cracked lenses on the floody versions, those were repaired and i haven't heard of any more instances, there was speculation that the frosting process might have made the lenses more vulnerable to stresses in the glass.
If you're worried about that, get the clear lens version and cut some diffuser tape in a circle to stick over the clear lens, you can rationalize that the added impact protection will balance out the slight loss in efficiency vs the frosted lens.
Mine is holding up fine to daily pocket carry and drops.
I suspect the ZL warranty department is looking for anything to fill the time between orders much of the time... or they've offloaded that job onto a couple engineers.

- I'm sorry, I misread the OP as saying single cell OR CR123... but honestly that's a terrible requirement, a non rechargeable CR123 has 1/2 or less the watts of an 18650, and they're pricy, really pricy compared to a decent 18650 and a basic charger.
I can see the logic of wanting CR123 if you're getting them for free when you show up for the S&R, but it's pretty limiting, and you are'nt going to save much weight or volume at all, and you won't get as high a max level when you need It.
It might make good sense as an exercise in justifying stockpiles of aging CR123 batteries, but getting one of the newer ZL that can handle 6v fills that void... just use the same single 18650 again and again,
and maybe swap it out with a spare
18650 to even out the wear between them, and hold the accumulating pile of unused CR123 back for emergencies... by all means keep two CR123 primaries with you in case your 18650 run down.

- in all fairness, I should try an AT Wizard Pro, I just know about the two Predators I bought a few years back, the QC and warranty situation and the steps involved.
Looking at the Wizard's exposed switch boots though, I don't think they'll last very well in my care.

 

[Lumen83]

Thanks for all of that info on the beams. I am not leaning toward two models at that "floody" but not flood models. That sounds perfect for my use case. These are the two:

H600Fw Mk IV 18650 XHP35 Floody Neutral White (pre-order)
H600Fd III High CRI Floody Neutral White

I like the lumen ratings and 4500K tint of the H600Fw. But, there are no run times listed yet and the CRI is rated at 70+, which I was hoping more for 80+. I wonder if they will update those stats when the light is released.

And, I like the 80+ CRI of the H600FD, but it is nowhere near as bright as the H600Fw. Both look like awesome lights. Decisions, decisions...

 

[eh4]

Look at the runtimes and lumens of the discounted H600Fw MK II, the runtimes and brightness will be as good or better for the Fw MK IV... The Fd should be the same deal, with the Fd MK II as a baseline.

Back when I was agonizing over which one to order, I thought that the w models seemed to be a good compromise between brightness and tint, and after having mine for a few years and getting a spare on discount I still like them, but as they get incrementally brighter and more efficient I'm leaning towards an H600c or H600Fc for my first MK IV.

 

[jlittle]

I got my H32F yesterday it is an amazing little lamp. I need to familiarize myself with the settings but out the box it had a low light and a high option. It's really light i was worried it would be heavy is why i went with the single CR123 option but will likely switch to the 18650 and guess I'll get a 18650 tube for my HDS as well

 

[LedTed]

The real reason I need to use a primary over an 18650 is because of extreme temperatures. There has been times when I have been above treeline when it is below 0 degrees F. The 18650s just do not handle that the way that a primary cr123a does.

I'm glad I learned more about Armytek issues. I really need a light that is not going to fail. Even though I take a handheld for searching, when we are doing a litter carry, I want that free hand to be there in case of falling, to grab trees, or use a pole for support. Having a head lamp that will not fail ensures that hand is free.

The Armyteks seem to beat the zebralights in terms of lumens and run times for the cr123a lights. But, it sounds like zebralight might be more reliable. Are there any other alternatives?

I don't help with S&R. I do know a few LEOs who prefer 18650s for run time. I personally duplicate multipurpose headlamps / batteries as my new EDC. As per the issue of cold, NiteCore has something new; the NL 1835HP.

 

[Jerimoth]

It depends on what region you're in. In some western states your fellow rescuers are LE- sheriff, etc. In other areas they are wardens or mountain rescue teams. I bring this up because battery compatibility with fellow rescuers is a consideration if it turns into a longer search or carry than you anticipated. Brightness can be overrated- e.g. keep in mind for litter carries you don't want to blind the other five carriers or the patient. so super bright isn't necessary-unless you're out front route-finding. I use a Black Diamond Storm- it takes lithium AAA's which should be good at low temps- have used it way below zero. Also have used the Nitecore HC 90- sometimes I'll use just the red LED for hiking alone in the dark, and the slider for brightness control allows you to light up a path for a low angle lowering, or dim it down to avoid blinding the other rescuers. Since I'm using an 18650 in the headlight I use a bright handheld for searching, and carry two spares in my radio harness which is close to my chest and therefore warmed by my body on cold nights. If you're on a mountain rescue chances are they'll be some recruited climbers helping and they all use Petzl or BD so I carry spare AAAs, some of them lithiums for cold temps- they also work in my pulse oximeter and other medical devices. I've used the Petzl Nao 750 lumen light- the reactive lighting takes getting used to but works on rescues because when you're looking down it dims, and then you just need to look up and out to survey the terrain below the litter - and you can still keep your hands on the litter -- no need to switch brightnesses by hand. As suggested by others here, I carry two headlights- i LOVE the BD Ion, at $24, or less with prodeal, it's superbright, superlight, and I stick it in my harness as a backup. Can use lithium AAA for low temps. My experience with BD has been good as far as reliability is concerned, in mountain rescue ops.

 

[Lumen83]

Update: I ordered a ZebraLight H600Fd Mk IV H600Fd Mk IV just in time for my qualifying night hike this Friday night. And it showed up completely dead. Will not light up using any of my known good 18650 batteries. I put this all in a note to Zebralight and their response was to try speciffic batteries that they listed including their own. Not very happy at this point. Now I have to figure out what I'm doing for a headlamp friday night. And not feeling very good about trusting a brand for Search and Rescue that showed up completely dead. Hopefully Zebralight replaces this and the replacement doesn't have any issues. So far I'm really regretting taking the Zebralight plunge.

 

[eh4]

What a shame, I wasn't expecting that when I clicked this updated thread.
I was going to ask if anyone had been running the new MK IV lights on 2x CR123 and how that was working out.
The listed voltage range for the MK IV is 2.7v to 6v.

 

[Lumen83]

The service is pretty disappointing too. I get one response from them a day. The first one was try new batteries. Today its try holding the button longer. I'm really unimpressed at this point. I'm asking for a refund not an exchange.

 

[eh4]

That sucks that you got a lemon while you're in a time bind.

 

[eh4]

So I guess you've sent it back without trying two CR123 in the light.
I've had one lemon myself out of 6 lights in 3+ years, and it was very frustrating, made me feel pretty fickle about my near fanatical love of the design and manufacture.
I sent it back and requested a repair rather than a replacement, and about 4 weeks later received the same light back, which has been my daily carry, daily use light for the last year and a half or so.
Whatever light you get, run it hard when you first get it, it seems like most failures pop up early if the lights are stress tested.

 

[Lumen83]

So I guess you've sent it back without trying two CR123 in the light.
I've had one lemon myself out of 6 lights in 3+ years, and it was very frustrating, made me feel pretty fickle about my near fanatical love of the design and manufacture.
I sent it back and requested a repair rather than a replacement, and about 4 weeks later received the same light back, which has been my daily carry, daily use light for the last year and a half or so.
Whatever light you get, run it hard when you first get it, it seems like most failures pop up early if the lights are stress tested.

They haven't gotten back to me since Thursday so I can't send it back. Last note they sent me was to hold the button longer.

I do agree that typically most lights will either have problems right out of the box or not at all. That makes sense. I'm still on the fence with this. The light seems like the perfect tool for the task. I'd be willing to give another one a try if they can exchange it in a timely manner. But, at this point the service is really disapointing.