Shiningbeam XP-G circuit wiring

[niverin]

Hi,

I have recieved these boards and I am not sure about the wiring.

http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-133/**NEW**-3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit/Detail

I assume the ground is the outer ring on the back side, and the battery positive + is the inner ring?
Where to solder the switch?

The shiningbeam products lack of any documentation and I am not as good in electronics to figure it myself (also don't want to damage it by wrong wiring).

Thank you!

 

[Black Rose]

As you guessed, ground/negative is the outer ring, positive is the centre ring.

Normally the postive post of the battery contacts the centre ring and then the switch at the end of the light simply completes the circuit when activated.

What are you going to be using this circuit in?

 

[niverin]

Thanks, Black Rose!
And what about the switch to change the modes?

I am building some kind of DIY helmet light, in my first light I used the well documented bFlex but it is too expensive board to another DIY for me :-(

Thank you for your help!

 

[AnAppleSnail]

Hi,

I have recieved these boards and I am not sure about the wiring.
I assume the ground is the outer ring on the back side, and the battery positive + is the inner ring?
Where to solder the switch?

The shiningbeam products lack of any documentation and I am not as good in electronics to figure it myself (also don't want to damage it by wrong wiring).

Thank you!

Wire LED+ to the red wire and LED- to the black wire. If those aren't long enough you can add jumpers or replace the red/black wire. Supply + goes to the center circle and Supply - goes to the outside ring.

The switch MUST go on the Supply + or - wire. NEVER connect a powered driver to an LED. Try not to power a driver with no load. If you power a driver with no load on it, connect LED+ to a resistor to LED -. If you don't do this you risk toasting the driver or the LED.

LED Drivers try to output power at a voltage that allows them to send a particular current. If there is only a high-resistance connection (air gap) then the driver will crank LED+ to its maximum output voltage (or higher, that's why some break when you do this), trying to pump the current it's rated for through an air gap. Then you connect an LED and the current surge can damage the LED or driver.

You can easily solder wires to the battery contact pad if you're making a non-tube light.

 

[Hallmcc]

what about the switch to change the modes?

Any switch you use will allow mode changes, a toggle switched on-off-on will change mode. A push button that has momentary capabilities will also allow mode changes with a light press and release.