So I pulled out my Pacific last night...

[Gatsby]

which is a Lux III HP version - nothing new or fancy. Popped on the AA body (which is the lowest power but longest running configuration - and is slighly dimmer than the CR2 version) and started comparing it to my Liteflux LF5, my Jil JCR2 IT (with a P4 mod) and darn if it doesn't put out a really nice amount of light, a really useful beam and runs for 12 hours on a lithium AA! The LF5 on max with a lithium AA is not suprisingly a lot brighter, but the Pacific is comparable if not a tad brighter than the LF5 at 50%.

I admit that I've been seduced recently by the digital lights which do offer a lot of flexibility and had been neglecting the Pacific. But for a rock solid reliable light, very well made, with a nicely balanced beam and a really efficient driver, it is hard to beat the Pacific. Add the option of 3v configuration with the CR2 body and it remains a great EDC light and if I was facing a long blackout, I know which light would end up in my pocket!

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Have you used a NiMh AA? Lower output than Lithium? Just wondering because circuits that can run with AA and CR2, or CR123 seem to operate as constant current devices when voltage is closer to three volts, and in direct drive when the circuit does not see enough voltage to run in regulation.

Bill

 

[h_nu]

I have two Pacifics. The original has the Luxeon and my SS version has the SSC. The SS head with the SSC emitter on the Aluminum AA body is definitely going with me on my next camping trip. A CR2 body with the plastic cap is a lightweight spare battery holder. Of course I will have several other lights but the Pacific is great.

 

[Gatsby]

Have you used a NiMh AA? Lower output than Lithium? Just wondering because circuits that can run with AA and CR2, or CR123 seem to operate as constant current devices when voltage is closer to three volts, and in direct drive when the circuit does not see enough voltage to run in regulation.

Bill

I've run it on NiMHs and it seems to run well - if a little less runtime. Somewhere in this forum there are some tech notes for the Pacific with a whole host of runtimes for the LuxIII HP version - and while the lithium is the best AA option it performed well with NiMHs (as does mine). You have to view the old thread on the Pacific in the MKPLC forum (linked in the copied thread) as the AA NiMH runtime didn't make it into the new thread. Around 8+ hours to 50% and just a hair dimmer than the Lithium test.

 

[paulr]

I thought the Pacific was supposed to be regulated (constant power) until the battery voltage gets below about 1.2v, after which is supposed to drop to "battery saver" mode (half power and tapering down from there). So it should run at the same brightness on a 3v, 1.5v, or 1.25v (NiMH) battery. Mine is supposedly a little bit out of adjustment because it uses battery saver mode even on a fully charged nimh and I've been meaning to call Peak about getting it fixed.

In my subjective view the Pacific's beam is too narrow and I've been thinking of swapping out the reflector for a wider beamed one.

 

[Gatsby]

paulr - I am no electrical engineer ... but from what I recall from ThisisNascar's output runtime charts, flashlightreviews, as well as those from Peak, the Pacific has higher output with a 3v configuration (either 2xAAA or CR2) - and more runtime as well in the 2xAAA configuration (compared to the single cell configuration). On either a 1.2, 1.5 or 3v setup it does stay regulated and drop to "moon" mode but it is brighter on the 3v setups - not screamingly so, but visibly.

 

[arty]

I get more output from the CR2 than any AA or AAA battery. The increase is at least 100 cp going from the AA to the CR2.

I was also surprised to find that my Lux III UP puts out more light than the UP Seoul I recently bought. MY wife got one of my older Pacifics in HA, so this gave me a reason to get another one.

I have 3 (2 brass+1 HA), while my wife has an HA with a CR2 body.

 

[rgc]

I have one of the original Peak Pacifics in Brass. This is my edc and truth be told my favorite light. I think it is a great amount of do every thing light at night backed with 12 hours of flat regulation (AA lithium). I am now looking for a leather maker to make a belt pouch to hold the Pacific and a SAK Farmer side by side as they are always in my pocket and this would free up the pocket and keep em handy.

rgc

 

[this_is_nascar]

Like others, I have neglected the Pacific over the last year or so. If I recall correctly, I really liked the performance of this light. It's the largest 1xAAA light I've ever seen, but it's still a great light.

 

[paulr]

Yeah there's a smaller version called the Baltic, wider beam but otherwise the same as the Pacific from what I undertand. Maybe someone can correct me. I think the Pacific makes the most sense in a 1aa configuration rather than AAA. It looks like a normal light that way.

 

[cave dave]

The single stage lights don't get the attention they deserve. Peak really does them right because you can choose from 4 drive levels. I just ordered a AA Pacific P4 in XLR. Specs say 40 hour runtime and brighter than a CMG infinity ultra.

On my Lux HP model I can't really tell the difference between CR123 Edit CR2, and AA. The charts show a difference but I can't really see em.

Peak really needs to work on their marketing and website though, its like they don't even care if they sell lights.

 

[paulr]

The CMG Ultra is/was a great light but is now several generations old in led technology. With a new led running at 15 ma or so, it would also run 40+ hours while being brighter than the old model. The Pacific is quite a bit larger and more mechanically complicated, plus has that narrowbeam reflector, so not such a good comparison. Anyone know if a wider angle reflector is available for it?

Anyway, if you want a low powered 1aa Peak, I think you should also consider the Kilimanjaro, which is more CMG-like up to a point.

Re Peak doesn't care if it sells lights: hehehe, yeah, that describes it pretty well.

 

[cave dave]

The CMG Ultra is/was a great light but is now several generations old in led technology. With a new led running at 15 ma or so, it would also run 40+ hours while being brighter than the old model. The Pacific is quite a bit larger and more mechanically complicated, plus has that narrowbeam reflector, so not such a good comparison. Anyone know if a wider angle reflector is available for it?

I wouldn't call it narrow, its wider than a HDS, Fenix L2D, etc. Also its not that mechanically complicated if you use it as a twisty. The pocket body is exactly the same, twist to compress battery till both ends contact. The keychain body does have a small spring to prevent denting your battery. So twist till it turns on not till its tight.

The spill beam width is a function of the diameter of the window and the depth of the LED. There is no way to change that with a reflector swap. You would need to raise the LED closer to the window and find a reflector with the same width and a shallower depth.

If you are talking about the spot width then the P4 has a much wider spot and brighter spill then the Lux. You could also use a mild diffuser.

 

[cave dave]

Anyway, if you want a low powered 1aa Peak, I think you should also consider the Kilimanjaro, which is more CMG-like up to a point.

The beam on the pacific is way better then the Kilimanjaro. Plus the P4 is much more efficient at these low drive levels. Pacific is the way to go if you want a simple, small, one stage, low power, long runtime, AA light.

 

[NutSAK]

The Pacific is quite a bit larger and more mechanically complicated, plus has that narrowbeam reflector, so not such a good comparison.

A Pacific with pocket body is exactly the same size as a CMG Infinity Ultra.

 

[NutSAK]

On my Lux HP model I can't really tell the difference between CR123, and AA. The charts show a difference but I can't really see em.

How are you running a Pacific on CR123?

 

[paulr]

Hmm, I forgot about the pocket body but then you've got a light with no lanyard hole, which has just never seemed right to me.

The Pacific is still more mechanically complicated than the CMG because of the bezel ring (that holds the lens in place), the lens itself, and the o-ring around the lens. With the keychain tail, there's still more parts: the removable tailcap, the removable keychain post, and another two or three o-rings. Pacific: four or five metal pieces, four or five threaded fittings and 3 or 4 o-rings plus a lens. CMG: two pieces, one threaded fitting, one o-ring, no lens.

And the Pacific is still larger in diameter than the CMG, I think. I don't know the weight comparison.

As for the beam, I like the CMG/Kili beam a lot better just because it's wider. I don't think it's appropriate to compare an HDS beam to a low powered Pacific beam. High power lights like the HDS (or the more powerful Pacific setups) can reasonably have narrow beams because the main point of a powerful light is to illuminate over distance. Low power lights are for closer distances and should in general have wider beams. They really should offer some different reflectors for the Pacific, with wide-angle ones shipped in the lower power versions unless the customer requests otherwise.

As for led efficiency at low power, I think the P4 and the current generation of 5mm leds (Nichia DS and so forth) are comparable. The Kili's "snow" led is older and maybe a little less efficient but not by enough to really care about IMO.

 

[NutSAK]

Hmm, I forgot about the pocket body but then you've got a light with no lanyard hole, which has just never seemed right to me.

And the Pacific is still larger in diameter than the CMG, I think. I don't know the weight comparison.

The Pacific AA body is narrower than the CMG body, and the Pacific head is about 1mm wider than the CMG head. The Pacific weighs 52 grams, the CMG 56 grams, both with alkaline battery. I agree with the Pacific being more mechanically complex, but that is the nature of most lights that employ a reflector, and is one reason I prefer the pocket body.

As for the beam, I like the CMG/Kili beam a lot better just because it's wider. I don't think it's appropriate to compare an HDS beam to a low powered Pacific beam. High power lights like the HDS (or the more powerful Pacific setups) can reasonably have narrow beams because the main point of a powerful light is to illuminate over distance.

I think it's more appropriate to compare a Pacific beam to an HDS than to a 5mm LED light like the CMG. Reflectored lights are generally tuned to have a more concentrated hot spot, especially smooth ones. The Pacific has a good amount of spill for a reflectored light, and still has a great deal more throw than a CMG. I think it's a nice balance, but the reflector could easily be sputtered if you want more flood. The tint of the Pacific P4 is certainly much better than the CMG's Nichia, at any power level.

 

[cave dave]

Peak Pacific pocket Al AA w Li = 44g
Peak Pacific pocket Al CR2 = 32g
Arc AAA w Li = 17g

Edited above post with CR2 not CR123, got too many cell types in my house and my brain.

 

[arty]

The Pacific with the pocket CR2 body is just about 2.3" long.