Solarforce L2r Tailcap problem

[nerrad]

I bought a SolarForce L2r a couple of months ago. The problem is that the tailcap clicky does not work anymore.

Has anyone else had this problem from this AA light?

Is there a replacement I can find?

Thanks

 

[Volks73]

I'm not sure if they sell just the switch by itself, but you can get a whole L2r host directly from solarforce for $9.99, or just the body and switch for $6.99.

 

[odd]

HAve you tried the advice from this thread?:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?227518-LED-Troubleshooting-guide-(budget-lights)

 

[nerrad]

Thanks for the info!

 

[Brian10962001]

Almost seems to be a rash of bad Solarforce tailcap switches going about, hope it's not a chronic problem...

 

[PCC]

I guess, for $10, replacing the entire host would be cheaper than trying to find a replacement switch. I was given an L2R body, minus the tail cap, because the switch failed and the previous owner lost it or threw it away. I contacted one of the domestic resellers of Solarforce lights and was told that the L2-R is such a slow mover that the small parts for it just aren't available separately for them. I guess I'll just make my own tail cap on the lathe for this light. At least I'll be able to set it up with a proper, easily replaceable, and more reliable switch than what Solarforce put into these things.

 

[spexmaniac]

I'm really no expert on these things, but having two SF tailcaps fail in two days this is what I learned, the inards of both the L2i and L2 (18650) tailcap are exactly the same -unfortunately both dead. It may be worth emailing solarforce sales in HK and see how much the replacements are (not that expensive but are they reliable?) or email some of the dealers recommended in this forum to see what higher quality replacements are available, I have a thread going in budget lights about the same quest. It looks like SF may have "spoiled the ship for a haypeth of tar" by putting cheaper switch modules in :-(
DX also have some similar looking switch blocks at are $5 for 10! again, reliability may be an issue!
hth
John

 

[CarpentryHero]

Wouldn't hire to contact SolarforceUSA and see what they know. There the fellas that have done a few you tube videos about solarforce lights

 

[Darvis]

For what it's worth, I've replaced my switch with a McClicky. The oveready brass adapter fit my Solarforce L2P perfectly and I just use an o-ring between it and the rubber boot for a perfect fit. Converts it to a forward clicky as well.

 

[PCC]

Wouldn't hurt to contact SolarforceUSA and see what they know. There the fellas that have done a few you tube videos about solarforce lights

I sent them an email yesterday. Awaiting a response...

For what it's worth, I've replaced my switch with a McClicky. The oveready brass adapter fit my Solarforce L2P perfectly and I just use an o-ring between it and the rubber boot for a perfect fit. Converts it to a forward clicky as well.

Is this for the L2R or L2P? The L2R is not SureFire 6P compatible when it comes to the tail cap because it is thinner on that end of the light.

 

[Darvis]

Ah, I thought they might be similar... mine is the L2P tailcap

 

[nerrad]

Fixed my L2r problem with some parts laying around. I looked at the end and tried a Nite Ize AA Mini M*g push button tail cap on it. It worked, but I had to sand some off and tapped it into place with a rubber mallet. Works but does not look good because of the exposed threading on the L2r. I have to put the batteries in from the head now since the tailcap was force fit into place.

 

[PCC]

So, three months later, and I still have a L2r without a tailcap. I'll cut one on the lathe, but, what a poor excuse of a light from a somewhat reputable manufacturer.

 

[PCC]

Some more information:

I was very generously given a failed L2r tailcap from a forum member (let me know if you want to be named). It arrived today and the first thing I did was to take it apart. I now know why this particular switch failed. Well, technically, the switch didn't fail, the switch heated up from shorting out a Nailbender drop-in and the heat combined with the spring pressure from the drop-in and tailcap switch deformed a plastic ring that is fitted between the switch and the rubber button. This deformed plastic ring was causing the switch to be depressed enough to not allow the switch to turn off once turned on. A new ring or one made from aluminum would solve the issue.

One of the first things that I'd tried was to put a McClicky into it. While it physically fits, it won't work as it's too long. Screwing the tailcap onto the body fully compresses the McClicky spring and it becomes a battery crusher as the O-ring is covered by the cap. The inside diameter of the tailcap is too small to fit the shorter Shiningbeam forward clicky switch so that one's a no-go. I could always put one of those into the lathe and reduce its diameter to fit if I was desperate.

Some other thoughts: I thought about making a Delrin ring to allow a standard L2 tailcap to be used with the L2r body. This would allow the tailcap to be locked out by unscrewing it a small bit and it should work with any clicky tailcap that would fit a SureFire 6P (sorry twisty fans). I could also make a low resistance Z41-style twisty mechanism for the standard L2r tailcap. One other idea, and the one I definitely will try making, is to make a twisty tailcap that incorporates a QTC to allow varying the output of the light infinitely.

 

[PCC]

Another update: on a whim I took apart the tail cap on my Quark 123T and the forward clicky sort of fit. The L2r tailcap has two different thread diameters, the larger of the two for threading onto the body itself and the smaller one for retaining the clicky mechanism, much like the 123T tailcap. The 123T clicky mechanism slides into the L2r tailcap but stops at the slightly smaller threads. The clicky is long enough that it works with the stock rubber button, but, the tailcap barely covers the O-ring before it bottoms out on the switch. This works, for the most part, though I would put the tailcap onto the lathe and cut the threads back 1mm to allow the clicky to sit a touch deeper which would take out a bit of mushyness from the button. An alternative might be to put the clicky button on the lathe and reduce the diameter of the circuit board by 1mm, which would require that a stopper be made so that the switch mechanism doesn't slide all the way in due to the spring.

 

[PCC]

One of the first things that I'd tried was to put a McClicky into it. While it physically fits, it won't work as it's too long. Screwing the tailcap onto the body fully compresses the McClicky spring and it becomes a battery crusher as the O-ring is covered by the cap.

So, I tried this again, but, this time I took a Solarforce switch cover that I had removed the rubber nub on, making it compatible with SureFire tail caps, and I was able to make it work with a McClicky. I cut a small threaded aluminum ring that will allow me to secure the McClicky as well as provide an electrical path to the tail cap from the switch itself. First a picture of the ring and McClicky installed:

Here's a picture showing three extra rings that I had made along with a fourth ring on a McClicky. To the right, the black switch cover is the stock one with the rubber nub in place sitting next to an orange Solarforce switch cover that has had its rubber nub removed using a sharp knife:

How well does it work? It works great! It'll have a greater ability to handle current compared to the stock switch and I just like forward clickies. The most important thing, though, is that I can now repair the switch if it fails using a readily available McClicky switch.

 

[nerrad]

Thanks PCC for all your great insight

I still have my "modified" L2r and I am going to get a lantern head for it.

I am planning to use it camping in Oct in northern WI.