Solder!

[jch79]

Hey guys,

I know there's been threads on this before, but I'm trying to be more specific with my soldering needs.

I am assembling my first Aleph LE :duck: and wanted to get some advice on what accessories I should get.

1) I've already decided on the Hakko 936, however Tequipment.net gives three choices: a small iron, medium, or large. I'll assume small, but who knows?

2) Flux: what/where

3) Wire: what/where

4) Any other equipment? Helping hands?

Thanks a lot!! :)

john

 

[greenLED]

1. I'm not familiar with that one, but I'd recommend using fine tips regardless of what you get. Also, a super-duper powerful soldering iron will fry the small circuits we work with.

2. Modern solder comes with flux, but I dab a tiny bit anyway. Makes a *huge* difference in soldering. I went from not being able to solder to assembling nice sammies once I started using flux. I use the liquid type that I bought at the local ACE hardware store.

3. 22-26 AWG works nicely for most of what we do; 24AWG is just right for dat2zip's boards, and 22 will fit goldserve's FluPIC's (but 24 works as well). I've used 30AWG for tweaking sense resistors in Zetex-based circuits. I've been spoiled by teflon wire and will never use anything else (the jacket doesn't melt back as you solder).

4. For the longest time before getting some helping hands, I just used "blue tack" to hold things in place. I learned the trick from KevinL.

Other random advise:
- go slow, don't let the excitment of build a LE (and/or being close to finishing) overcome your cautiousness. I've smoked "one or two" ;) boards or Luxes for rushing to finish a sammie or LE
- make sure you have spare components
- did I mention going slow?
- epoxy doesn't stick to good quality scotch tape; use the tape to hold the epoxy within the can, boards, plug holes, etc. before poring the epoxy.
- have fun and share your results (good or POS), that's what this hobby is all about

 

[TOMTEC]

You made a good choice with the Hakko 936. We've had a number of them over the years (along with the 937) running practically 24 hours a day for rework and large component assembly with almost no problems.

I'd suggest you get the Small iron (936-11) as you will be working with small components and don't need the extra bulk. As for tip selection... I like using the 900M-T-0.8D Chisel tip for 80% of the work I do. For fine work, look at one of the super fine conical tips, (don't have a number handy) and for rework & desoldering (where you don't really care about damaging components) you could always throw on a 900M-T-K Knife Blade for quick work.

TOMTEC

1) I've already decided on the Hakko 936, however Tequipment.net gives three choices: a small iron, medium, or large. I'll assume small, but who knows?

 

[jch79]

Wow! Thanks for the advice guys!

The "spare components" thing scares me - I'm banking on being a natural solderer!

That Sandwich Shoppe is an easy place to blow a lot of money.

greenLED - great tip about the tape!
Tomtec - thanks for the iron model no's.

I think I will get helping hands - they don't seem to cost too much, and might be of some help when I need an extra, well, hand.

Alright - off to do some digi-shopping!

john

 

[Kryosphinx]

Have some soldering wick handy. It's saved my butt more than once.
I also recommend any clamping device made of metal. It helps keep heat sensitive electronics cooler, giving you a couple extra seconds to work with em before they die from the heat.
Make sure you have TONS of light before you start working with small pieces. You don't want to strain your eyes.

 

[FirstDsent]

For the most sensitive or micro-work, I use a 20X field microscope (cheap on ebay). Very accurate pinpoint soldering between components is possible.

Bernie

 

[jch79]

3. 22-26 AWG works nicely for most of what we do; 24AWG is just right for dat2zip's boards, and 22 will fit goldserve's FluPIC's (but 24 works as well). I've used 30AWG for tweaking sense resistors in Zetex-based circuits. I've been spoiled by teflon wire and will never use anything else (the jacket doesn't melt back as you solder).

Anyone know where I can get 24 AWG wire from? It doesn't seem like RadioShack carries it, but maybe I'm not looking at the right area on their website?
Thanks!
john

 

[tetranitrate]

I usually use 26AWG for my projects. It's made by Alpha, and you can find it from mouser.com. I'm sure they have 24AWG as well, probably in many different insulator colors.

 

[ibcj]

Ebay

 

[jch79]

Geez... 50ft!!?? I plan on putting together a few light engines!

I believe that greenLED guy was saying that 24 AWG works best for the Aleph boards, correct? EDIT: Looks like Don says 24 or 26 AWG, teflon coated.

I wonder if there is a place that sells it by the foot or the meter. Chicago, surprisingly, doesn't have any great electronics supply stores - especially none anywhere near downtown.

Thanks!
john

 

[ibcj]

John,

PM sent.

 

[jch79]

And replied... thanks!!

 

[cyberhobo]

Kester brand solder (accept no other). Rarely, will you have to use additional flux. Flux should really be avoided when soldering fine electronics and if needed, should be thoroughly cleaned off the PCB once all soldering is completed. Kester Flows beautifully provided your surfaces are clean. Try to stay away from the Rat Shack stuff.