speleo technics headlights

[crislight01]

i would like to get comments from people who got this lights: the FX headlite and the FX5 or 3 from ST, are they worth it for the price?(because they are damn expensive)

 

[uk_caver]

I'd suggest trying http://ukcaving.com/board/index.php as your best-chance place for finding Speleotechnics users in some quantity.

 

[crislight01]

thank you ,interesting forum.

 

[half-watt]

They are expensive. Since, not being a caver, i couldn't justify the expense of the FX5, and being a collector of sorts of all things illuminating, i went with a Western Rivers Halogen Hot-Lite system from innermountainoutfitters.net, but cabelas.com has it cheaper. Sometimes eBay has them brand spankin' new, but not usually too much cheaper - Cabelas seems to be the cheapest (~$109,...IIRC???).

very nice glow in the dark membrane switch control on the 6VDC SLA battery. uses standard PR-based halogen bulbs as GITD "THE SWITCH" takes very good care of the bulb (gentle start/ramp-up when turned on). has brighter/dimmer multi-levels of light output + min + max + strobe membrane switches.

it's plenty bright, let me tell you! can't compare it to the FX5, nor, not being a caver, and it's way too heavy (4lb-5lb range) for ultralight backpacking. can't comment on burntime yet. i play with it in the workshop and wooded backyard doing after dark chores and have a few hours on it and it's still very bright on MAX, but don't really have enough hours on it to comment further.

The nice people at IMO (innermountainoutfitters.net) tried to steer me away from incandescent to LED, more specifically the StenLight S7. They told me cavers are moving away from incandescents and they sell tons of Stenlights.

hope this info helps.

 

[crislight01]

yes from what i've heard they are pretty expensive even compared to their quality, some caver says that a head and battery cell of an oldham is much tougher and reliable than ST light , pretty sure it is true, the best oldham type lights where built in the past the best is to switch them to led if you want to upgarde them, i discovered that model you bought few days ago yes it looks very powerfull.

 

[jhscaver]

Hello there,
I have caved extensively with the ST FX-ion 14 led/ halogen spot, until I upgraded to the stenlight last year. I hired a fellow on this board to mod my sten with new reflectors and SSC P4's so the ST is mostly a bookend now. That being said, it is very robust headpeice, everything about Speleo's products is damn tough, really. Even the Chargers have beefy plugs that go beyond mil spec, I imagine. I would think you might be able to find one used if you know any caving people. It's true, most cavers have left incandescent completely. On a trip with 6 people it is typical that all 6 sport LEDs of some sort. It's all about saving weight so long as you don't jeopardize safety..

 

[uk_caver]

The headsets may be externally tough, especially if compared to an average plastic headlight, but IMHO the switch isn't nearly as good as an Oldham headset - the rotating contact being flat with sharp edges (rather than a round pin), it is more prone to catching on and distorting the outer contact springs. The contact behind the rotating centre contact can lose its spring. With the centre contact not being removable with basic tools, field repair isn't always easy.

Despite having played with rather fewer S-T headsets than Oldhams, I've seen more switch problems despite the fact that many Oldhams have been very old and well-used.

 

[crislight01]

yes i agree that switch doesnt look good, i found this :
http://ukcaving.com/board/index.php?topic=295.0;prev_next=prev

that FX headset litteraly exploded, if it would have been a typical headlamp nothing would be left...


Shot at 2007-07-20

 

[cave dave]

I've never used one, but one of my caving buddies has one but now uses a Petzl Myo XP which he prefers.

I have a Stenlight but if I had to do it all over again, I'd just use a moddified PT Apex with a P4 and a reflector.

 

[AndyStroup]

I have been caving for years. I have tried a ton of lights, from free railroad headlamps all the way to custom made LED lights. The simple fact is that you get what you pay for. That light is a good light. I have caved with Speleo-technics before. Heck, I'd even say that a carbide is a good light. It really depends on what kind of caving you do. If you do alot of ropework, obviously, you would not want a carbide. If you stay in a cave for an extended period of time, you would not want an incandecent. I am a hardcore caver. I stay a long time, swim, rappel, bump my head alot, and sometimes, on my back, almost use my light as a digging tool. As I said "hardcore". If you are like me in any way, let me suggest the best light company on the market. That is, in my opinion only. That company is Lupine. I have had a Lupine Spe-Lu for about the past four years. It has survived everything I could throw at it and then some. It can last for a long three day weekend (that is about 10 hours or so a day in cave) on one charge. It is lightweight and very bright. And my newest one is even better. Look at Gretnabikes website, they sell Lupine in US, and don't be shellshocked at the price. Just remember, They are the best light out there!!!!!!

 

[AndyStroup]

P.S. The Stenlight is a poor excuse for a light. Sorry to all that have one. Should have bought a real light for that kind of money.

 

[jhscaver]

P.S. The Stenlight is a poor excuse for a light. Sorry to all that have one. Should have bought a real light for that kind of money.

Wish I'd read this comment before I responded to your other thread, Andy (the one where you go on and on about how awesome your photon keychain light works for caving). I would not have suggested the Stenlight, since it seems you've determined for us all, that the Stenlight is junk. Wow. Bold statement, considering there are hundreds of cavers like myself, who consider themselves hardcore or at least moderately hardcore and depend on our Stenlights every weekend.
Thanks for sharing the final word on the "best" light for caving, the Spe Lu. Those 1990's Nichias are real barn scorchers, aren't they? All 30 of them, lol...
P.S.
I need to get down there to the Gom' to bounce those 500' pits sometime

 

[AndyStroup]

To respond: First of all there are just 26 LED's. This light is by far not the perfect light. This light does however kicks butt when compared to the Stenlight when you compare useable light and run time. The only reason I used this example is that it is the most afordable headlight that I have that I have really tested and know that this is probably the most durable light I have. I do have better, alot better. I had to read my post again, and I suggest you do too, and I only said that I thought that Lupine was the best light company on the market. Please, try to prove me wrong. How many have you ever tested???

Also there are no decent pits anywhere close to Montgomery. Ever hear of TRAVEL? Heck there are pits outside of the US too!!!!! Come on down but be prepared to travel when you get here. There is no caving to be done where I live.

That little light that I said that it was perfect for caving?????

I would never take that light anywhere I needed dependable lighting. It's a keychain!! Good Grief!!!

 

[PeLu]

...let me suggest the best light company on the market. That is, in my opinion only. That company is Lupine.

I know most of the Lupine lights which could be of any use in a cave and I've caved with several people with Lupine lights on expeditions. These are nice lights, but they are no caving lights, although they might be used as such ones.
I've also seen troubles with Lupine lights (but only few).
In my opinion, they are far behind a Scurion or Dave's Bisun.

 

[crislight01]

the beam of the Scurion is excellent! doesnt last too long tho but the spill is very nice. the design of the head is

 

[PeLu]

the beam of the Scurion is excellent! doesnt last too long

? It lasts almost 10 hours on full power and ~25 on one step down. Even when both beams on full for filming, it never turned out to be a problem (that means changing batteries in cave).

I might not regard as a hard core caver for some real men here, because I only spend 5 weeks a year from my valuable vacation for caving expeditions every year now since the late 70ies (was about 9 weeks a year back then) (plus a couple weekend trips). But I've managed to break almost all caving gear or have watched others to do so. And I'm usually the person who is in charge for the technical equipment.

 

[half-watt]

? It lasts almost 10 hours on full power and ~25 on one step down. Even when both beams on full for filming, it never turned out to be a problem (that means changing batteries in cave).

I might not regard as a hard core caver for some real men here, because I only spend 5 weeks a year from my valuable vacation for caving expeditions every year now since the late 70ies (was about 9 weeks a year back then) (plus a couple weekend trips). But I've managed to break almost all caving gear or have watched others to do so. And I'm usually the person who is in charge for the technical equipment.

Not hardcore???? You're a veritable troglodyte!!! Good for you!

did i read a wee touch o' sarcasm in the tone of your wording?

 

[AndyStroup]

Ok Ok, so my Lupines might not be the ultimate, they are still great lights. I will try a new Scurion and tell ya'll what I think. I went online and looked at the Scurion. Nice light! I ordered one in Blue. I did not like the fact that they did not have one in stock but I'll wait. I guess when it is a half-way custom light it is nice that you get a fresh one. The fit and finish is not exactly what I expected but overall it looks pretty good. I was told it has always been used as a main light but I have read that it likes to eat batteries too. Guess i'll have to get spares.

 

[crislight01]

i need to charge this miner lamp, is the + i pointed the correct + ? is that the + on a Oldham head?

 

[uk_caver]

In an Oldham headset, the positive connection is a 'pip' on the lower rim of the headset behind the bezel.
The negative connection is made by a keyed pin on the charger to a contact in the back of the headset. The headset is placed onto the pin, which slides into a rotatable barrel, and then the headset is rotated around the pin+barrel, and it's only after rotation that the negative contact is made.