Stupid Ra Clicky Tricks

[jblackwood]

Your mention of doing this when changing batteries is what mostly threw me, as the tail cap doesn't get removed just for a battery change. The only way that air could get trapped before reaching the o-ring would be if there was enough lubrication on the threads to make an airtight seal and my threads are dry.

If this method is actually working for you then I'm envious but I suspect that the best one I've seen posted so far has to do with heating up the light and letting the natural cooling cause a vacuum to draw the cap down. Every time I put the cap back on I hold the button down all the way as I screw it down and I suppose it's a little better than naught...

Air freely travels from the battery compartment to the electronic switch. I know this because when I change the battery, my normally flat button protrudes. I unscrew the tailcap (I have the newest model that can fit the new clip) and push the button in while I screw it back on and all is good!

I suspect this method works better than pushing the button down while changing the battery (at least for me) because less air is displaced when taking off the tailcap verses replacing the battery.

 

[jblackwood]

I think that if everyone who puchased a light that was supposed to tail stand and it does not were to return it to the dealer/manufacturer, and insist that it be addressed or a refund requested, then it would soon become apparent that we will no longer accept "poorly" designed lights.

Yeah, Henry never claimed the lights would tail stand. They're more effectively sealed against the environment than other lights, which is what causes problems in tail standing. As I'm sure you've realized by now, no one else on this thread (heck maybe the whole forum) is about to come out and claim that Henry's lights are poorly designed, it just isn't the case. And yes, all of us wanting a tail standing light CAN get a twisty (I have one), but I'd prefer to have a Clicky that does so. Like someone else said, treat yourself to an RA light. Just make sure you know what you want in a light before ordering, that way you know what to expect when you get it. As one of the most famous concierge light makers on here says in all his sales threads:

If you receive one of these lights and decide that it does not meet your expectation then you can either lower your expectations or simply send the light back for a full refund. I won't offer an exchange for probably obvious reasons. (please don't abuse this offer).

That's not Henry, but Don McGizmo. Like I said, treat yourself and have fun! :wave: :welcome:

 

[kaichu dento]

The ideal behind #3 is that screwing the head on traps air and compresses it as the head is screwed down, buldging the switch cover out. If you screw it down as far as possible but without engaging the o-ring and let it sit for awhile the compressed air will escape.

It will still compress more air when you do the final tightening down, but not as much as just installing the head and tightening down the full way all at once.

Air freely travels from the battery compartment to the electronic switch. I know this because when I change the battery, my normally flat button protrudes. I unscrew the tailcap (I have the newest model that can fit the new clip) and push the button in while I screw it back on and all is good!

I suspect this method works better than pushing the button down while changing the battery (at least for me) because less air is displaced when taking off the tailcap verses replacing the battery.

I had never even suspected that the air pressure within the battery compartment would be connected to the tail cap area.
With this new realization I tried the button depression technique while screwing both the head and tail cap down and think it may be working better.

Next I ran it under hot water before closing the ends and am now waiting for it to cool to see how the vacuum method works. Will report back later, at least an hour or so... :sssh:

 

[Vesper]

LOL @ the slightly ambiguous thread title.
Is it the Ra Clicky you think is stupid, or the tricks? Does the title mean:
1. Stupid Ra Clicky! Tricks...
~ or ~
2. Ra Clicky: Stupid tricks
I'm sure you mean #2, but I don't think your trick is stupid at all - it's a good idea.

Just an ambiguous use of the term "stupid" ala David Letterman's "Stupid Human Tricks" or "Stupid Pet Tricks" segments.

 

[kaichu dento]

Having just finished my test I believe the best combination for getting the button to flatten out and allow easy tailstanding is getting the light hot, then while fully depressing the button, screwing both the tailcap and head on and when the light cools the button is flatter than I've yet been able to accomplish by any other method.

My Clicky still wobbles but it won't fall down. :nana:

 

[Henk_Lu]

Having just finished my test I believe the best combination for getting the button to flatten out and allow easy tailstanding is getting the light hot, then while fully depressing the button, screwing both the tailcap and head on and when the light cools the button is flatter than I've yet been able to accomplish by any other method.

My Clicky still wobbles but it won't fall down. :nana:

That's exactly what some moron said in post #19. It works best on the newest compartments however, where the tailcap only carrys the rubber boot and as my 17670 stands flat by now I suppose it also works better on the longer body! :wave:

 

[cave dave]

I tried the heating in the sun method and in 20 min I could barely handle the light just from 95°F and direct sunlight on the black body. However this trick did not work well for me. Maybe the insides didn't get as hot as the outside or perhaps i didn't let it cool it off enough.

The Vacuum bag thing above works so well that if you overdo it the button actually becomes concave, and you can see the indentation made by the switch underneath it. It makes it sort of hair trigger responsive since the rubber is now pressing on the switch itself. I usually have to let a bit of air back in because I prefer the button to buldge a bit but not so much it affects tailstanding.

I have to say this is the 3rd iteration of the tailcap (7th if you include previous designs), you would of thunk Henry would just have recessed the button another mm or so by now, to prevent accidental activation if nothing else.

 

[leon2245]

Yeah, Henry never claimed the lights would tail stand.

o.t. but it should be emphasized if tailstanding is not an advertised feature of this light. expecting tailstanding because it looks like it should is still less tricky than jetbeam's "flat push button at the tail makes the light tailstandable", if you don't read carefully- not recessed, but actually designed to stand on the button itself:

kind of tailstandable.

 

[Theatre Booth Guy]

Cave Dave, Tried out the vacuum bag trick today - my Clicky is really stubborn - no luck. Thank's for the great trick though!

Mine is back to having a "vent" to let the pressure out. I wrapped a small piece of coffee filter around the edge of the rubber boot so the boot leaks just a tiny bit.

 

[cave dave]

Cave Dave, Tried out the vacuum bag trick today - my Clicky is really stubborn - no luck. Thank's for the great trick though!

Mine is back to having a "vent" to let the pressure out. I wrapped a small piece of coffee filter around the edge of the rubber boot so the boot leaks just a tiny bit.

For the vacuum bag trick to work the head has to be in just the right position. If it seals firmly against the O-ring the air won't be sucked out. If is too far from the o-ring the air will rush back in when you open the bag. The amount of lube on the threads may also affect air transfer.

I think the what you want to do is twist on the head till it just touches the o-ring, but then back it off just a tad. This allows the oring to act as sort of a one way valve, where air coming out will push the o-ring out of the way, but air trying to go back in will suck the oring against the head, sealing out air trying to enter. It is also possible to twist the head some while it is still in the bag. So after you suck the air out, you can twist it to seal the head, before you open it. I don't do this because it works too well and makes my button concave.

 

[gswitter]

Not a practical work-around, but you can also temporarily fix the tail-standing issue by opening the Clicky when you're out of town at a higher elevation. I always make a point of opening mine when I'm in the mountains, whether I need to change the battery or not.

 

[Theatre Booth Guy]

For the vacuum bag trick to work the head has to be in just the right position. If it seals firmly against the O-ring the air won't be sucked out. If is too far from the o-ring the air will rush back in when you open the bag. The amount of lube on the threads may also affect air transfer.

I think the what you want to do is twist on the head till it just touches the o-ring, but then back it off just a tad. This allows the oring to act as sort of a one way valve, where air coming out will push the o-ring out of the way, but air trying to go back in will suck the oring against the head, sealing out air trying to enter. It is also possible to twist the head some while it is still in the bag. So after you suck the air out, you can twist it to seal the head, before you open it. I don't do this because it works too well and makes my button concave.

I unscrewed the switch end past the O-ring and managed to tighten the thing while in the bag under vacuum (what a pain). Tried 3 times before I gave up. Either I'm doing something wrong (which is possible) or my Clicky just wants to be a pain. Love the light. Wish it would properly tailstand. Maybe, I'll try later - thank's again for the great tip!

 

[Lord Bear]

Today I received my Malkoff Turnkey MD2/M61 Hi/Lo Flashlight. I also ordered the pocket clip and tail shroud to go with it. Back to this later.
Per DM51's post, tried the SF red filter with lens pushed out with my Ra Clicky for candlestanding. Fits too loosely on the tailcap to keep it on, (it will slip off all by itself), but it does candlestand very nicely that way. :thumbsup:
Back to the Malkoff. When I received the MD2, I seemed to remember reading somewhere on CPF that this tail shroud would fit the Ra tailcap. It does. Since I might put it back on the MD2, I'll try it without boiling it first on the Ra for awhile. Always wanted that bezel down carry and no wobble candlestand! :thumbsup:
As for the MD2, the SF filter w/o the lens fits perfectly on the tailcap for candlestanding! Tight enough to STAY attached. Can't push it down all the way to the lens ledge(?) or the cone switchboot will protrude and it will not candlestand. Also helps to prevent rolling. I usually don't EDC 2 battery lights anymore (the MD2 is more of a nightstand light for me) so I'm quite happy with this result even if it all turns out to be temporary. :thumbsup: