HDS Suggestions for HDS Part Deux...

Hogokansatsukan

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Continued from here.

Edit: I wanted to say here as well, HDS will supply a 3rd party with drawings if they want to produce parts or accessories for the HDS lights. They would need to be vetted and HDS will assist them, and if what they produce meets HDS standards, we will put a link on the HDS website to that third party in order to help that 3rd party with sales. We will not stock it ourselves or sell it ourselves but rather help promote that 3rd party.
 
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wacbzz

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Would these available schematics include Legacy and Novatac parts? There isn’t much available now at UT...
 

Stoneking

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I wanted to say here as well, HDS will supply a 3rd party with drawings if they want to produce parts or accessories for the HDS lights. They would need to be vetted and HDS will assist them, and if what they produce meets HDS standards, we will put a link on the HDS website to that third party in order to help that 3rd party with sales. We will not stock it ourselves or sell it ourselves but rather help promote that 3rd party.

You guys continue to impress, this is awesome news!
Looking forward to see what comes of this!
 

RCS1300

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Okay, I have four Sanyo INR 18650 batteries from HDS and a holster for two extra 18650 batteries from Thors Hammer Custom Leather. Wondering if HDS wants to think about extending the product line?

The High Noon High CRI LED emitter is Sunlight in a can and incredibly awesome at high lumens.

For those with 18650 battery tubes would Henry consider ramping up the lumens on the High CRI lights from 200 to 400? I realize that the run time with Burst enabled will likely go from 5:45 to 2:00 hours but wow would that really light up the way.

(The heat issue...I did not think about that...probably a constraint in the current configuration...)
 
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Modernflame

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For those with 18650 battery tubes would Henry consider ramping up the lumens on the High CRI lights from 200 to 400?

I may be strange, but I like my under-driven HDS. That's part of the appeal. A bump in luminosity would only be welcome if it maintained the same efficiency.
 

peter yetman

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I agree with MF, my HDS taught me to appreciate the value of lower output lights.
An output bump would completely spoil its appeal for me.
I'm going to gat Tana to make me a Nichia Triple and I intend to limit the driver current to around 1 amp.

P
 

thermal guy

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I agree. When I first started down the road with lights I wanted max output. Period! Now that I’m older but probably not any wiser i have turned 180 degrees on my thinking. Oh I still like and need high output lights. My Malkoff’s for example. But in reality 90 percent of the time I’m 50 lumens or much much less. And that’s where HDS lights excel
 

RCS1300

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Okay, okay, I agree. HDS is not and should not be in the lumens game.

I'll go buy some other high CRI high lumen light to test out. I know I will be sorry and I will probably use it once. How do I know that :rolleyes:
 
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peter yetman

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Get a high output High CRI Triple. That way it's a complete contrast to the HDS and will make itself a useful position in your arsenal.
I have a couple of OR Nichia Triple Drop Ins that I would never be without. But then I'd never be without my 170N.
P
 

RCS1300

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I have a couple of OR Nichia Triple Drop Ins that I would never be without. But then I'd never be without my 170N.
P

I do remember looking at Tana triple heads in a McGizmo wrapper a while back. Did not purchase because the technology wrapper was no where near the quality and functionality of HDS. Saw some inexpensive Convoy builds but again no where close to the HDS quality realm. Maybe BOSS, but again then I would be tied to a computer. This doom loop makes me realize why I went to HDS. :grin2: Are the HDS titaniums ready yet...?
 
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Modernflame

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Maybe BOSS, but again then I would be tied to a computer.

I've tried very hard to like the boss, but it just isn't for me. Nothing to do with price, either. If you have a lot of modes enabled, then you have to scroll through them in order. If you narrow it down to fewer modes, then you may have to make an adjustment on the fly, which is impractical if not impossible. I've considered programming one as a single mode, but then I'd want the low output red LED, and now we are back to scrolling.

The HDS is near perfect. That's why you don't see much from me on the suggestion thread.
 

usdiver

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I don’t know if I ve mentioned before but a micro usb Programming port however maybe impossible would be cool if it could be done... with military grade components and waterproof (sealed) so the user could switch user interfaces rather than sending it back to Henry.
 

peter yetman

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I do remember looking at Tana triple heads in a McGizmo wrapper a while back. Did not purchase because the technology wrapper was no where near the quality and functionality of HDS. Saw some inexpensive Convoy builds but again no where close to the HDS quality realm. Maybe BOSS, but again then I would be tied to a computer. This doom loop makes me realize why I went to HDS. :grin2: Are the HDS titaniums ready yet...?
Have you looked at Prometheus Delta? The Icarus Driver is very flexible with a click clcik hold for MAX, and they come in Ti.
There's nothing as good as Henry's driver though.
P
 

RCS1300

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Have you looked at Prometheus Delta? The Icarus Driver is very flexible with a click clcik hold for MAX, and they come in Ti.
There's nothing as good as Henry's driver though.
P

I will look into that light. Do you have one?

What I really like about Henry's lights is that you can dial them in exactly the way you like them. If you change your mind, you can dial them in differently. Plus, his lights take primaries and rechargeable batteries. I do not think anything I have seen in the last six years comes close to that.
 
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Johnnyh

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Okay, okay, I agree. HDS is not and should not be in the lumens game.

I'll go buy some other high CRI high lumen light to test out. I know I will be sorry and I will probably use it once. How do I know that :rolleyes:

If you really want to try out a high lumen, high CRI light and not drop a lot of cash just to get it out of your system, get at an Emisar D4. It’s a quad available in Nichia 219c 90 CRI and SST20 95 CRI. Look at intl-outdoor.com. About 40 USD.

I have one but never carry it. Too hot for me. It is fun to go out and turn the back yard into daylight for a few seconds though. But after about 20 seconds it becomes a hot coal.
 

RCS1300

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If you really want to try out a high lumen, high CRI light and not drop a lot of cash just to get it out of your system, get at an Emisar D4. It’s a quad available in Nichia 219c 90 CRI and SST20 95 CRI. Look at intl-outdoor.com. About 40 USD.

I have one but never carry it. Too hot for me. It is fun to go out and turn the back yard into daylight for a few seconds though. But after about 20 seconds it becomes a hot coal.

Thanks for the heads up. Maybe next winter for dog walking, when I need a hand warmer that doubles as a flashlight...
 

nbp

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I've tried very hard to like the boss, but it just isn't for me. Nothing to do with price, either. If you have a lot of modes enabled, then you have to scroll through them in order. If you narrow it down to fewer modes, then you may have to make an adjustment on the fly, which is impractical if not impossible. I've considered programming one as a single mode, but then I'd want the low output red LED, and now we are back to scrolling.

The HDS is near perfect. That's why you don't see much from me on the suggestion thread.

If the red emitter bounce setting is turned on then you can just turn the single high mode on against your hand or body and it will immediately knock down to the secondary color.
 

Random Dan

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When I need high lumens I'll go for a Zebralight, Emisar D1, BOSS, or a PFlexPro H17F P60 light. The upcoming FW3A would also be great option, if it every happens. It's quite HDS-like in terms of its production timeline :D

For suggestions, I would still like to see the following (most have come up before at some point):

- Long throw optic or reflector that threads into the current heads
- Mule bezel that threads into the current heads
- Stainless steel tailcap option
- 18350 battery tube
- Bezel with clip attachment for rotary
- Micro textured glass like PFlexPro uses to even out beam and increase spill (these might not be made in US, which I understand would make it a non-starter)
 
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