Surefire E1E or E2E for night hikes...?

angelofwar

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You will like your E2L...you'll like it even more when you get an F04 slip-on diffuser. Even us picky flashaholics love them, that's why you almost never see them for sale on the MP. And a full 11 hours of 60 Surefire lumens, it's quite possibly the best regulated light in existence...

I've been using mine for the past year and a half and still have the original batteries in it...

HA means "Hard Anodized", which is "Type III", unlike the "TypeII" Anodizing found on there shiny black lights like the 6P. Don't let Al catch ya using the term "Type II Hard Anodised"...LOL! (Sorry Al...had to...you would have come on here eventually...LOL)

WH means it's white lights, as some of the lights were made (and some still are) in red/blue/green LED's. If your E2L had a red LED, it would be E2L-HA-RD.

Hope this helps, and let us know how you like your E2L when ya get it!
 

carrot

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E2L is another favorite of mine. Come to think of it I also like the E2e, E1e, E1L and E1B. I guess you can say I like the E-series Surefires... heck actually I like 'em all. E2L is another great light for night hikes, not too overpowering and plenty of runtime.
 

ampdude

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Yea i want an LED for the runtime but i want an Incan for the color rendition. Yea i was trying to let the lumens factory stuff help me make my dicision but i still cant decide. There is the EO-E1R i could use for the E1E, and theres the EO-E2R for the E2E but im just not sure. Is there more for the E2E other than bulbs, or is that what you meant by "lumens factory stuff"? Thanks.

The EO-E2R is an outstanding outdoors setup for the E2e. It only draws 800ma, yet puts out 150 lumens of incan light. This translates to an excellent runtime with IMR16340's and it's easy to carry extra IMR batteries and an extra lamp in a Surefire SC3. :thumbsup:

The MN02 and MN03 is also great, but I only use them in harsh conditions like extreme cold, because that is their main advantage, the reliability of a Surefire lamp and Surefire primaries.
 

kaichu dento

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I took a couple E1e's out walking last night and since they are much brighter than I prefer for walking at night I can't imagine wanting more light.

My personal preference if I had to choose between E1e or E2e for the night hike would be to go with the E1e and save the second battery the E2e would take.

Evidently from the amount of support for the E2e I'm in the minority for preferring less light at night, but it really helps to let you feel the place you're in as opposed to only what the light itself shines on.

Hope you like your E2e's and congrats on the win!
 

Brian321

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Why do you guys keep recommending the IMR16340's? Is there a difference between them and the AW RCR123's? ( I already have a bunch of AW's)
 

kelmo

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Beware of what you wish for! Really bright lights are great for about 1 minute. Then the glare they produce really starts to get irritating. I had a M60W once, yes the color rendition is very impressive for an LED but in the end it was a lousy trail light. 200 lumens is great if your in a flat open field, but in a hilly forested canopy you will need sun glasses to use it. 10-20 lumens is fantastic. Get a E1e then pick up a E2e body, MN02/MN03 LA, and KX1/KX2 module on the CPFMP.
 

saabgoblin

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Lets not forget about the E2D either, whether you need and or want a defensive bezel is a totally different matter IMHO. Personally, I prefer the beam from my E2D because it seems to have less spill than the E2E(which I find to be a little excessive)and I am attributing this to the convex lens and the way in which the extra aluminum projects from the front of the bezel. The E1E's spill doesn't bother me so much I guess because of the lower output in the flood but then again, I have yet to try an MN02 in my E2E so the output in the spill will also be less pronounced than the MN03's output. Much like everything else, it all depends on your usage and circumstances because what you and or I may dislike in one scenario may just what you need in another situation.
 

Brian321

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Lets not forget about the E2D either, whether you need and or want a defensive bezel is a totally different matter IMHO. Personally, I prefer the beam from my E2D because it seems to have less spill than the E2E(which I find to be a little excessive)and I am attributing this to the convex lens and the way in which the extra aluminum projects from the front of the bezel. The E1E's spill doesn't bother me so much I guess because of the lower output in the flood but then again, I have yet to try an MN02 in my E2E so the output in the spill will also be less pronounced than the MN03's output. Much like everything else, it all depends on your usage and circumstances because what you and or I may dislike in one scenario may just what you need in another situation.
Yea i have to admit that the E2e's spill is a little much but i think ill get use to it.
 

BigBluefish

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Thanks for all the replies. So i just got back from cabela's. I played with them in the store(they even had batteries in them:D) , I liked the E2E so i bought it. So i get home just now and check my email and I won a Surefire E2L from ebay that i bid on the other day:eek:. Now i dont know what to do keep them both or sell one of them? What do you guys think?

P.S. I won the bid for a brand new E2L HA-WH For $66.00:nana:, BTW: what does HA-WH mean? Thanks.

That's a great price for the E2L, whether the dual output version, or the older single output version, assuming it's the Cree version. I don't know anything about the older Luxeon versions, or even if they made an E2L with a Luxeon LED.

I would keep them both. The E2E should do very nicely for a couple of hours with an MNO2 lamp, which puts out about 25 lumens, more than enough for walking around in the woods. The standard MNO3 lamp puts out about 60 + lumens for a little over an hour, well, actually by that point you are down well below 60, but for the most part, that's too much light, IMO for walking around in the dark woods. Good for spotting something at some distance, but for lighting the trail, serious overkill.

The dual level E2L has a low level which will run forever (over 60 hours) on a pair of batteries, and should be just about right for nighttime woods walking. Then you have the high level, which will still run for 6 hours before dropping out of regulation at something close to 100 lumens, with very good throw from the optic, so you've got a good light for spotting critters or people or whatever at some distance.

Having both also gives you the option to choose between incan and reflector, for a warmer, more floody beam, and LED and the TIR optic of the E2L, for a cooler white color and a spot beam from the optic. Try them both out and see which you like best for different situations.
 
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Ska-T

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200 lumens is great if your in a flat open field, but in a hilly forested canopy you will need sun glasses to use it. 10-20 lumens is fantastic.
Kelmo, I notice you are from Sacramento. What lumen range do you find useful for night hiking in the Sierra just at or above timberline where there is lots of granite rock and not much tree cover? Does trail vs off trail conditions affect that? (Anyone else is welcome to chime in.) Thanks.
 

Beamhead

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In true dark situations like the mountains even 20 lumens can be sufficient. You need an EXE head with an led IMHO.
I'm from sac and visit the Sierras often.
 

knightrider

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I'm excited to try my E2E setup with the MN02 on some outdoor hikes and camping/backpacking/canoeing/etc. Will be a fun spring and summer. I'll be trying out my E2E MN02 and my E2L in the outdoors.

I can hardly wait to try my MN02 setup! Have been holed up waiting for the spring.
 

kelmo

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Kelmo, I notice you are from Sacramento. What lumen range do you find useful for night hiking in the Sierra just at or above timberline where there is lots of granite rock and not much tree cover? Does trail vs off trail conditions affect that? (Anyone else is welcome to chime in.) Thanks.

Welcome to CPF Ska-T!

Under those conditions if it is a full moon nothing! I once hiked down from Half Dome under a full moon. The granite seems to be fluorescent under moon light. With no moon 10 lumens is sufficient IMHO. I always use a headlamp, in the spirit of this thread I would have an E2D w/MN03 available for a spotter light. I have actually used this combo many times from Burney Falls to Sequoia National Park. If you ever get the chance take the Star Gazing Ranger talk in Yosemite. They bus you to Tuolumne and you lie on the granite in a open field above the valley and star gaze. It is magical!

20 lumens is my max on night hikes but I always have a spotter light available, like a stock C3.

kelmo
 
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ampdude

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A better short to medium range spotter light for hikes would be a twisty E2e with a Lumens Factory IMR-E2 lamp assembly and two IMR16340's.. Much smaller and much brighter. A stock C3 with P90 and primaries makes a better long running, tough, emergency incan. I have one as my old reliable, usually stoked with P17500's, primaries only used for extended runtimes, but it's not ideal for your purpose.
 
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