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MoparBarbarian

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Orange County, CA
Hello everyone,

I'm new to CPF and new to flashlights. I bought a Surefire G3 from Midway USA and I absolutely love it. I use this thing everyday for anything I can. The only issue I have with it is that it is just too expensive to run all the time.

So what I want to know is there anyway to make this a little more efficient? I was thinking of using a HO-9 (9V, 320 Lumens) High Output Reflector Module and maybe using CR123A rechargeable batteries.

Does anyone know if this is a good idea or can point me to the right direction?

I would really appreciate anyone's input.

Thanks,
 
2* 17500 rechargable helps you, avoid any chinesefire brand cells whenever its possible
You CANT use cr123a rechargable on HO-9 in G3 as 3S cell goes 11v+ which :poof the bulb
 
As mentioned, three rechargeable CR123s will kill the bulb. 3.7V 17500 rechargeables, which are 1.5x the length of a CR123, are what you need to use. You can actually use two of these cells with the stock bulb because, in use, they have a similar voltage to three CR123s under load. This is what's fun about 3xCR123 lights: you can swap between rechargeables and primaries while running the same bulb. I use two AW 17500 cells in my G3 with the stock P90. It is an excellent setup, with a good balance between brightness and runtime.

Here are the cells I use: http://www.lighthound.com/AW-17500-Protected-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_99.html

You'll need a charger, too. Here's the one I use: http://www.lighthound.com/AW-17500-Protected-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery_p_99.html You can get a nicer charger, like the Pila, but this one works okay for me.

ETA: Also, mdocod's ican/lithium-ion compatibility guide is a great resource.
 
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You can buy a 12v bulb assembly and use 3 RCR123 batteries. Be sure to use AW batteries. (There are also LED solutions.)
(*edit*) I've been advised that a 14v bulb will give similar results, but last longer.
 
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An LED solution would be the best bet, if you're merely looking for improved output/runtime. if you want to keep it incan, the RC options mentioned would be good...or you can get an R30 and run it off AA's...LOL!
 
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As mentioned by cm_mtb in post #4 above, md's guide is essential reading.

If you intend to convert from Incan to LED, do NOT use a high-output drop-in with a G3 Nitrolon head - get a metal head for it.
 
DM51 said:
As mentioned by cm_mtb in post #4 above, md's guide is essential reading.

If you intend to convert from Incan to LED, do NOT use a high-output drop-in with a G3 Nitrolon head - get a metal head for it.
Click to expand...
Factory G3 nitrolon comes with metal head aka z44, the pics on SF shown it
 
LED versions come with metal bezels (like the G3D). The rest have a special hex nitrolon bezel shared with the G2Z.
 
I run a G2 (got lots of 'em) with a Malkoff M91. I changed the head to metal at the time of the modification. No problems. Really bright G2! Metal heads conduct heat away from the LED. Heat is less of a problem with incandescent. (The light above looks like a Nitrolen head.)
 
Thanks for all the input I really appreciate it. So if i wanted to use a THRUNITE P60L STYLE CREE XML LED FLASHLIGHT DROP-IN UPGRADE ENGINE - 460 LUMENS - SINGLE MODE (2.7-9V INPUT) or a THRUNITE P60L STYLE CREE XML LED FLASHLIGHT DROP-IN UPGRADE ENGINE - 460 LUMENS - 3 MODE (2.7-4.2V INPUT)(found this on Battery Junction)What would be the deference of these two? And what kind of batteries would I need to run? Does anyone know the approximate run time of this application?
This is truly a whole new world to me but I really am enjoying learning all this.

Thanks again guys,
 
Don't try the THRUNITE P60L STYLE CREE XML LED FLASHLIGHT DROP-IN UPGRADE ENGINE - 460 LUMENS - 3 MODE (2.7-4.2V INPUT) with 3 CR123 cells, you will fry the driver. The single mode driver with 2.7-9v input is a better match for 3 CR123's or 2X 17500 rechargable cells.
 
i own a xpg r5 18v module and its good in g2
Short period use in g3 shouldnt be any problen even w/o metal head
personally my limit is 5min where heat builds up
less powerful and cooler one lke xre r2 is even better but so far ive only seen 9v module max
cell limited to 17500 or primary lithiums
 
Your mind seems to be made up to go the rechargeable route. Just to make sure, there's a way to save a good deal of $$$ on CR123 primaries.

Buy online, in bulk, and Made in America cells. Same Energizer CR123 cell at Rite-Aid is $9.oo (compared to $1.50 at Lighthound.com).

OnLine and in bulk to save money, Made in America because No-name Made in China cells are often built with zero Q.C. in mind. They're not just junk, but can be dangerous junk that could cause a CR123-based flashlight to severely vent with flame.
 
Surefire offers primaries at $2 lower and might be a good deal
e.g. $22.5 for 12 and even cheaper in bulk (aka 72/box)
Generic made cell and i think they are included in warranty when used in SF's lights
 
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