Surefire L1 Questions

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StoneDog

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Oct 21, 2002
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I haven't been paying much attention to the L1, but it might just fit the bill as a two-level EDC light for the back pocket. I believe they originally used low-dome emitters and people were generally unhappy with either the tint or the brightness. So, here are a few questions /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

1) Do they use lambertion emitters now and/or have SF made any changes to the original design?

2) How much current makes it to emitter in high mode?

3) How difficult is it to upgrade the emitter and/or replace the optics with a 17mm IMS reflector?

Jon
 
My recently purchased L1 is comparable in tint and brightness to my Nuwai Q3 with upgraded TWOJ emitter in it - very white. The spill isn't as bright, but the hotspot is. The beam pattern isn't as smooth as that of the Q3, but it isn't bad. I measured 600 mA draw from the fresh CR123 cell - so it is either underdriving a LuxIII or overdriving a LuxI. I can't answer your questions completely, but I do like this light.
 
1> I've been asking them myself, including if the head form has changed to that similar of a new KL1 -- but it seemed that the old crenellated one is still the standard. Some had said that LS has been upgraded to LuxIII, but really can't confirm.

2> I believe high mode puts out 350ma juice to the old-type LS. -- not too sure tough

3> I think if you can solder you can replace the emitter. Tony (Chop) has done a number of emitter change and replacement of optics with so17xa reflector.
Chop's mod on an L1 head

...Just a couple of weekends ago, I took a drastic mechanical mod -- remove the circuit of an L1 and re-bore the tube to accept Pila150s. PITA.
Re-Boring My L1
I also managed to open the head -- placed the head on a zip lock and placed on a pan of boiling water for about 5 minutes, enough to loosen the glue. I saw what's inside of an L1 bezel. I don't have an extra reflector, so I can say for sure if you need a little adjustment on the height... nothing that a good dremel can't do /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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This thread prompted me to re-measure my L1 current draws, on the 10 Amp inputs of a Fluke 88.

800 milliamps from the fairly fresh Surefire CR123, and 400 milliamps to the LED, which comes to about 1.4 watts. It also suggests a very inefficient boost converter.
 
1) Do they use lambertion emitters now and/or have SF made any changes to the original design?

The new L1s use HDs instead of LDs. The HDs have a much more constant tint and have the typical star inside a square pattern.

2) How much current makes it to emitter in high mode?

I have no idea. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

3) How difficult is it to upgrade the emitter and/or replace the optics with a 17mm IMS reflector?

Not hard at all, it takes a little time and perhaps some slight modification.

Overall the L1 is one of my favorite lights and is used almost every night.

-Mike
 
When I purchased my L1 from Surefire in December, they were out of stock. It didn't arrive until after the new year, so it seems likely this was from new production.

The beam has a nice round corona, or spill. Then in the center there seems to be a slighter brighter square of light. Within this square is a blurred and slightly bluish (compared to the rest of the beam) "X". Then at the very center of the beam and the X is a very white, round hotspot.

Was that too much information? Just like Mike, this is my 'favorite' and most used light.
 
That confirms it. Square beam = HD Luxeon.

Blinded> Was your new SF L1 still looks similar to the previous ones? -- crenellated, hexagonal head and four-square side bodies? I was hoping that SF has now released the newer, KL1-look-alike head with the more rounded body, similar to the newer E2es.
 
Cool, this is exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Jon
 

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