TechLite?

[Techlite Dude]

I was able to put a McClicky switch into one of my new Techlites for a fun modification. It was easy. All you need is a razor, a dremel tool (You can replace the dremel with a cylindical file and a drill), pliers, and something to unscrew the clear plastic switch retainer that is screwed into the battery cap. For this I used a snap ring remover but some small screwdrivers would work too.

The McClicky switch has 2 methods for powering on. Push it lightly and it comes on and off for a quick on-off or push it further to click it on until you click it off again. That is simple and I like it much more than the factory switch because I can turn it on and off quickly without looking at the beam. With the stock switch, I feel like I have to look at it as I toggle through the modes to make sure its off. This isn't cool if I'm trying to work on a car or something. The McClicky is a little too sensitive for my taste with the momentary on. However, it is much less of a hassle than what I go through with the factory switch. The McClicky's spring is pretty stiff compared to the factory one but it works OK. It makes it more difficult to screw the cap on.

-The McClicky is small and fits into the battery cap without using the McClicky's threading. It gets sandwiched by the clear switch retainer.
-There is a black retainer for the rubber button whose hole needs to be slightly bigger in order for a snug fit of the McClicky.
-The rubber button has a long post on the inside that needs to be cut short with the razor. Care needs to be taken here so its not too long or too short.
-The spring is removed from the clear switch retainer and a hole is drilled to fit the other in of the McClicky snugly. Bend the spring to the shape shown or something similar so that it touches the sidewall.

You can barely make out the spring through the clear retainer. I looks like the shape I drew and needs to wrap around the shaft of the McClicky so that it is sandwiched between the contact point and the retainer. The straight part of the spring needs to touch the side wall of the battery cap to complete the circuit.

After the mcclicky mod , my flashlight stayed on no matter what. This was because the rubber button post was too long and was pushing on the switch. After trial and error, I got the button post length correct. Use a sharp razor and take your time.

I got 2 mcclicky's for $16 shipped to my door from lighthound.com.
So I got 2 nice flashlights for about $16 each...and some fun modding action which is worth the extra money :party:

 

[Techlite Dude]

I found a spring to put between the rubber button and the switch to make it less sensitive. Now I won't worry as much about it accidentally getting turned on while sitting in a bag or something. Its a spring from an automatic sprinkler valve solenoid. The smaller diameter side of the spring goes around the button post. It needs to be cut shorter that I have it in the pic.

Here are some better pics:

 

[batvette]

I think the "red led in tailcap begins to glow when batteries are low" is a really stupid feature. I guess one school of thought would be "let's alert the user the batteries are low so he can replace them right away!" but as I see it (and I'd rather not have my flashlights managing my schedule for me anyway!) it's just a self fulfilling prophecy. "haha, we TOLD you the batteries were going bad- now look, they are!"

Another forum identified these as Dorcy lights. I'm not a big fan of Dorcy, memory tells me most every Dorcy light I've encountered died but quick and was a year or two behind current technology when introduced.

(between Dorcy and Garrity they comprise most of my "broken lights" drawer. A Garrity with the magnifier lens being the only non li-ion light I've seen CATCH FIRE)

Still $15 for two or even $20 regular price is real cheap. I don't have a costco card so hopefully my friend who does is going before the sale ends.

 

[batvette]

its a sicklight quit complaning.
a lite is a lite ....

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92396

Haha! Fourth photo pwns you like buying a puppy, tying a rope to it and kicking it home one step at a time.

(no animals were abused in the production of this post)

 

[Therrin]

Techlite Dude,

Funny enough, I modified my Costco "TechLite" tonight while talking to another CPF friend on a chat we're both on. I did one of the same things you mentioned on here.

The clicky on the TechLite is the most annoying thing I've ever come across in a flashlight. You'd just think about it and it'd turn on. Completely wastes the batteries if you tried throwing it in a glove box or a backpack.

I took out the opaque rubber cup with the post inside and cut about 1/4" off of it. Which fixed it pretty nicely. Since it takes a real PUSH to make it operate now, it doesn't just come on when it bumps into anything.

The light is still pretty darn cheap (in both price and build) but now its useable too.

Good call on the rest of those mods. Maybe if I get really bored someday I'll try to use them as well. For now I think it's good though.

Cheers =D

 

[Jerrycobra]

i have these, i got a pack back from the end of march, they had no drain problems what so ever, no red light problem either

 

[aka]

Maybe someone can confirm this:
I observed that desoldering microcontroller pin 2 (next to pin one, which is marked by a dimple) accomplishes the following:

-reduces parasitic loss to .07mA from ~.13mA (it spikes to .2 briefly when standby is first entered then settles to .07)
-eliminates low-voltage cut off entirely (emitter will stay lit until batteries are completely exhausted)
-preserves blinking red light function when light is powered on

Can someone tell me for sure that the red light comes on if the battery voltage is low and the light is off? I haven't seen this happen yet (but it does stay on blinking after the light cuts out) and am beginning to wonder if people have been turning the light on in drawers/ glove boxes/ etc.

Alternatively, it might just not trigger past a certain point. I've noticed that if I put really dead batteries in with an un-modified driver, it will dimly light the emitter and not trigger the cut-off. But on the other hand, blinking light and cut off are independent so....?

 

[Locoboy5150]

This is just a side note, but I went to Costco last night and they had a three pack of these lights. Previously they were only sold in a two pack.

 

[Kevinm78]

Today I found these lights in three packs of 200 lumen lights. The clickly tailcap is different - using the standard black material as on high end lights. Quite bright, with an impressive throw and more focused beam. They are not adjustable.

They are not finished well, with some rough edges. But for $20 at Costco for three lights they are pretty nice.

 

[ryukin2000]

Today I found these lights in three packs of 200 lumen lights. The clickly tailcap is different - using the standard black material as on high end lights. Quite bright, with an impressive throw and more focused beam. They are not adjustable.

They are not finished well, with some rough edges. But for $20 at Costco for three lights they are pretty nice.

i just picked this up as well. Black cap. the click isn't really defined. the feel of the switch sucks when i turn it on. All three had a different tint, warm/cool and the other one was a little purple. I ran the alkaline's in one of them and the runtime was about 4.5 hours on the low setting. Smooth reflector. the beam itself was nice. i am pleased with them as its good bang for the buck. i bought 3 pack litemates a few years back and these are better than those even though they look the same. litemates had poorer beam pattern.