The problem with switches

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houtex

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 7, 2007
Messages
896
City & State/Province
houston,tx
Last week I went to work ,at night,and when I needed it ,the swicth on my Regalight WT1 went out on me. No problem I'll use my Tiablo A9. WRONG!
The switch on the A9 went out also.:ohgeez: On the WT1 it would not come on unless I tapped on it,and on the Tiablo it would not lock on. Both lights are already on their second switches. I feel like you just can't get both a bright and reliable light at an affordable price.
I have contacted both companies to see about another replacement switch. Tiablo is sending me one,but I'm worried about it happening again.
 
I will always favor twist-cap switches over clickys, for the reliability factor alone. If you are lucky enough to get a good one it will last, bad ones however will leave you :candle:. Who cares about ergonomics, if you can't rely on it. I use an RC-N3 at work, but I always have a 6P in my backpack as a backup.
 
I agree, for "must work when I need them" lights, a twisty is the way to go.

I really like the switch on my Rayovac Sportsman Xtreme lights. Momentary clicky combined with a full twist switch.

If you can get that kind of a switch on a $20 B&M light, why not on more expensive lights?

Surefire, ROV, Fenix, and Gerber use twisties. Who else does?
 
I wish the more expensive DX MC-E / P7 lights used twisty caps.

FWIW, TOP stryker 2xCR123 lights use twistys.

" If you can get that kind of a switch on a $20 B&M light, why not on more expensive lights? "

Most people see clickys as a high-end option and twistys are considered cheap, entry level and not ergonomic. Besides Surefire, which relies heavily on their fan-base for high end sales, a high $$$ light with twisty cap most likely would not sell very well.
 
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