The ULTIMATE.

Gather App
Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

How much harder would it be if this is going to be CNC machined, to have the head in a triagular shape with 3 buldges around the center light for the luxeons? You could go with NX01's and luxIII's. Would have a nice big flood. Have 2 settings for the luxes, low & high, plus the middle throwing light.
 
I think Ginseng is on the right track. Lose the P91, use a big reflector and WA lamp. Having the P91 surrounded by those LED's really seems to make the head unnecessarily large and you're not getting anything for the size. I'd really go back to the A2 or Twin Task design of having LED's shining through the reflector. The Solarc HID module is a trade-off because of the turn-on delay, but it's certainly something to consider. Note that the WA 01185 is a 30 watt bulb which may not be within your power budget. If it is, maybe you want to think about a 35 watt HID. The Solarc module is real neat, but at 10 watts it makes only 500 lumens or so.
 
Control the luxeons using a microcontroller, like the uFlex circuit georges80 developed; that'll give you dimming with a single pushbutton, plus you can program the controller to behave in other ways if you like, such as (for example) click to switch between 3x3-watt, 3x5-watt, and off, or hold down to dim up then down until releasing. If this is to be the "ultimate" flashlight, the microcontroller will give you the ultimate control system for it, and you can reprogram it later to behave differently without otherwise modding the flashlight!
 
Forgot to mention, you also ought to consider regulating the incandescent like the A2 does.
 
can it have a laser too? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

oh! and a voice that says "low battery" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Roth, if this thing puts out the ultimate amount of light, it will probably be the ultimate drainer of batteries, too... and you might hear that low battery voice so much you'll wish you hadn't asked for it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Phaserburn was right... please design something that at least gives the option of Li-ion batteries!
 
[ QUOTE ]
MTFD17 said:
Well you guys asked for it, and here it is. Large center opening for P90 LOLA or P91 HOLA and 6 LS 'stands' with a nice chunky heatsink to house 3 LuxIII's with Fraen-LP Optics and 3 with No Optics/McFlood Reflector. PK are you around??
Here's the pic created in Rhino 3D:
Bezel%20Parts.jpg

-ERiC

[/ QUOTE ]

Holy Smokes! I keep thinking this when I see your light design:
triplemini2.jpg
 
Making this light into an A2 type design would require too much additional designing. Im interested about these WA bulbs tho.
They have the bulb built into the reflector also?
What are the specs?
Reflector diameter, wattage, output/throw, what 123 config would i need to run one?
They're better than the P9x bulb eh?

3x3watt Fraen-LP
3x5watt Mcflood/reflectorless
^^ Is that the favorite as of right now for the LEDs?

Keep the replies coming, they're all being heard!
-ERiC
 
This flashlight was not designed to be a battery eater like the M6. It was designed with "reasonable" functionality, and long(er) runtimes which is why I designed it with 9 batteries. Not so that i could get 27v, but so that I could get 9v (Three 3-series banks in parallel). I also did not design this to be a throwing monster which is why I chose the P90 and not a bigger reflector. The P90 is plenty useful in my opinion. Devoting 3 of the 9 cells to the incan would give me 1 hour of 100+ lumen output. That means that the other 6 could be used for long runtimes with the LEDs in whatever configuration would be best. Once again, keep up the comments good or bad, i appreciate it!
 
I wonder how would 2 parallel set of 123 take to driving 3 x 5 watts at spec. Each row of 123 would be dealing with an average of 1 amp current draw. Good enough for 1 hour at most. But if you have a option to on all of the LEDs.... that would be 3x5 watts and 3x3 watts = 24 watts from 6 123s... Either way, 2 sets of 123 will not cut it for a long run time if you are driving the LEDs at spec.
 
For specs on the WA lamp, go to www.walamp.com and search on the part number (01185). Using all those 123's if you're not going to parallel them for high current draw seems kind of strange. Maybe you could use three 123's to run the P90 and put the other six in series (18 volts) and put the three led's in series (about 11 volts Vf) and run all the leds from a single Downboy-like converter (better ask Wayne whether a regular Downboy can withstand the 18v in). That should give pretty long runtime and completely independent power for the leds. You could even have separate switches for the leds and the incan.
 
Also I'm wondering if you are planning to use the LEDs for close up flood, why don't you try what McGizmo has done here: http://www.dmcleish.com/CPF/L1-Diamond/index.html

Just having 4 on each side would give you a very good candle stand light.

Having 3x5 watts on the from in the very first design can give pretty good flood with mcflood reflectors. And a P90 in the middle gives you your 100+ lumens.

IMHO, the batteries should all be used at once and not drawn bank by bank. By sharing the load among all batteries, you get more life out of them. You can have the uFlex driver for both the 5 watts and the 1 watts, and a LVR for the P90. Using 9 123s in series gives you a very high voltage (27v) to step down from which can give the P90 a very long run time. At the same time, the uFlex driver (if I didn't remember wrongly it's a step down circuit?) can also distribute power easily to the LEDs. Less current draw on 123s at any one time = extended battery life.

In the above mentioned configuration, the Candle Mode and the Mcflood 5 watt mode, and the P90 mode, all give you very good flood options from 360 degrees flood to directional flood, to longer range flood. Should be what you are looking for. Except that machining will be a nightmare. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Oh, regarding switching, you can have a single on off switch, and a 3 mode selector switch. If I'm not wrong, that should make choosing which mode to use a lot easier.

*edit*
I'm wondering if the 3x5 watt configuration, driven at spec, would outpower the P90 and render it redundant even tho Mcflood is used? It sure is expensive using a total of 15 watts for flood when a CCFL tube might have been a better bet...
 
This would be the muther of all lights /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Nice drawings Eric
 
Roger what Paulr said,

If you run the WA01185, you must run parallel strings otherwise your batteries will overheat in no time. These are just bulbs, either bare pin (like MagCharger bulbs or MiniMag bulbs) but they can be potted into a PR base. In either case, you'll need to use an aluminum reflector such as the Carley RF1940.

Wilkey
 
man...this is really cool to see such a thing from almost its initial stages and to watch it progress. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I only have one request since I'm not smart enough to contribute suggestions on design, output, voltage or design /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif Although, I do like the idea of the Carley reflector & bulb or even the PM6 over the P90 or P91.

My other suggestion would be some kind of electronics that could keep track of how long that light has been on with the current set of batteries. So, for example, a run-time test would have been done so we know that the light is capable of an hour's worth of light on one set of batteries down to say 50%. So, there is some electronics that would just count, like a stopwatch, the time the light is on. That way, we know how much battery life is left just by glancing at the counter/timer.

No, I don't know HOW you'd implement something like that, but, it certainly would be nice for this light along with many other lights. You could either buld in an internal display similar to a digital watch or maybe integrate it into a tailcap (for SureFire's, Pelican's, M@g's, etc.)



Anyway, my main suggestion is this: keep it AFFORDABLE so that more people rather than fewer would be able to buy one! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif And, not go /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif in the process!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top