Threading thread

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Since MSC is having a sale today, I ordered.... along with one of these:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1785945&PMT4NO=66794381

I've bookmarked a couple of helpful posts on making cast iron adapter plates for these chucks, so some fun will start when the Brown Truck turns up in a few days.

Congrats on the new chuck! :twothumbs As the others told me, you are going to love it, they were right, I know I do. It's absolutely the best accessory I got for my lathe.

I'm sure you will have no problem making an adapter plate for it. When I made mine I had zero experience in making one but it came out pretty good IMO. I posted a thread on it too. I enjoyed making it & it was a great feeling when it was done but the mess of cast iron dust was not fun.
 
Won't the 6" set-tru chuck be too big and heavy for the Wabeco? Most people here got the 5" for these reasons on small lathe... :popcorn:
 
Congrats on the new chuck! :twothumbs As the others told me, you are going to love it, they were right, I know I do. It's absolutely the best accessory I got for my lathe.

I'm sure you will have no problem making an adapter plate for it. When I made mine I had zero experience in making one but it came out pretty good IMO. I posted a thread on it too. I enjoyed making it & it was a great feeling when it was done but the mess of cast iron dust was not fun.

Will:

When the Bison adapter blank showed up I said, "Holy C**P!" There's a lot of cast iron dust that is going to come off of that thing! I think I'll set up a vacuum nozzle to pick up as much as possible.

I've had your thread bookmarked for some time. I'll be going over it carefully before I start. Thanks

David
 
Won't the 6" set-tru chuck be too big and heavy for the Wabeco? Most people here got the 5" for these reasons on small lathe... :popcorn:
The D6000 is factory spec'ed with either 5" or 6" so I'm not concerned. The machine seems pretty robust and has quality bearings. If you always started it at full RPMs, I can see how it might be a strain but I doubt that anyone does that.
 
You're right, the D6000 can come with a 6" chuck.

Did you choose the DIY path for the adapter for fun/cost reasons or is it because there is no readily available option on the market?
 
There's no ready made adapter that I can find. The D6000 uses a spindle disc that is about - I'm doing this from memory so don't quote me - 4" in diameter with a raised 70mm registration boss and three 10mm bolts on an 83mm bolt circle diameter. This is apparently a European configuration but there don't seem to be a lot of chucks available that are a direct fit. One exception is the Bison 5C collet chuck, which bolts on slick as a whistle. When I talked with a Bison/Toolmex rep on the phone, he was unfamiliar with this mount/spindle configuration and surprised that the had anything that fit it.

"Fun" would be just bolting on the 6-jaw and making chips. But if there's one thing I've learned lately about machine tools, it's that one of their most important uses is to make parts for themselves!
 
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What a bummer. Frankly while I can understand the fun of making your own parts yourself it really suck there is nothing available for such a basic need :tired:

Camlock seem to be really cool for this. Bison makes adapter plates to mount your chuck to a camlock spindle nose.
 
saltytri,

Do you have a D6000?

I'm thinking about getting one.

What do you think about them?

sdman
 
Yes, I do have the D6000. It has worked out very well for me. You could certainly make an argument that it is an unusually expensive machine but there is a lot of satisfaction in using any excellent quality tool. I also have the new electronic lead screw kit. I haven't installed it yet but it promises to really amp up usefulness and efficiency.

No regrets, no buyer's remorse. Just a big smile on my face!

Let me know if you want specific information and feel free to PM me if you want to visit on the phone.

David
 
Very informative thread! :twothumbs

I just got one of these the other day. Has anyone here ever used one?

GEOMETRIC-DIE-HEAD.jpg
 
Love to have one but out of my price range for now.

Probably looking at 6K plus not counting the electronic lead screw,tooling,etc.

Maybe an used one will show up sometime.

sdman
 
I make a lot of special titanium screws and have been using an APT round die holder in my tailstock.

When I found this, I thought I'd give it a try. I just need to figure out how to mount it in my lathe. (I don't have a turret - just a quick change toolpost and standard tailstock.)

In case anyone is interested, here is a link I found that has some general information on geometric die heads:

https://www.pmpa.org/files/bulletin_file/Pages_B168-178.pdf
 
I have been at the learning the lathe thing now for only a bit but can make external threads to spec that look nice, smooth and are actually within tolerances.

Internal threads however are giving me fits. I got the compound setup like in most manuals and stuff but my inside threads are all angry no matter what I do. I tried varying the compound and even using the threading tool upside down like I read somewhere but even with taking small cuts, it is jaggy. Any help would be appreciated.
 
I guess I'll be the first to say we need a little more info.

What technique are you trying to use (compound at an angle? Straight? What is your cutting tool? What material are you trying to thread? Are you using the threading dial? What size thread are you going for?

All problems will eventually yield to careful examination.

Dan
 
Internal threads however are giving me fits.
Try starting the thread at the headstock end & threading toward the tailstock. You'll need to cut an internal groove just before the thread starts as that's where your threading tip is located when you engage the feed. At least you don't have to worry about stopping at a certain point, just let the tool cut until it exits the bore.

The rest is much like OD threading - tool point on center, shortest possible projection of the tool from the tool block, correct speed for the material, etc.

This article was published years ago but is still worth reading: http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/threading-on-a-lathe
 
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Try starting the thread at the headstock end & threading toward the tailstock. You'll need to cut an internal groove just before the thread starts as that's where your threading tip is located when you engage the feed. At least you don't have to worry about stopping at a certain point, just let the tool cut until it exits the bore.

The rest is much like OD threading - tool point on center, shortest possible projection of the tool from the tool block, correct speed for the material, etc.

This article was published years ago but is still worth reading: http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/threading-on-a-lathe

I haven't tried cutting starting at the headstock but I made some improvements. My problems were getting greedy with too big a cut and having the tool not perfectly on center. I tried both 29 degree and zero degree and with small cuts of .008 to .01, getting decent results with just advancing with the cross slide. I was trying initially to take .015 to .02 a cut and that was the largest cause of my problems. I am now working up to the .0406 thread depth for 16 tpi with a series of progressively smaller cuts. I do .008 till I get to .032 and then go to .005 or so to finish.

I like having the dro tell me exactly how much I have advanced the tool cutting straight in vs using the compound. For aluminum, I am going to take small cuts and do it this way for now. The best part was I was finally able to cut an inside thread to 1.182" with a .0406 thread depth as per spec to fit the 1.25" male thread.

Here are some pics:

thread1.jpg



Inside thread:

thread2.jpg


Still need to clean up the relief part at the start of the thread but it is getting better. This shot was right off the lathe without going over with scotch pad or anything.
 
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