Three modding driver questions

[Buck]

I'm new to modifying existing lights, and have three rather unrelated projects:

1. Are P60 modules readily modified? I'd like a new pair of red and green lights. DX SKU 20333 and 20331 would be great if they were not single level lights. I would rarely want the full output, by which I mean I really DON'T want the full output, not just that it is brighter then necessary. Fewer lumens and longer run-time would be the goal, 95% of the time. Would pulling these apart and swapping in 3-mode drivers be practical? If so, which boards would fit?

2 & 3. I have two lights that have stopped working, an L-mini XP-G (I think, maybe XR-E) and a P-rocket XM-L. The L-mini had the emitter pill get stuck in the head and pulled out of the body when the reflector housing was unscrewed, which broke the solder joint between the driver board and the pill housing, and my attempt to resolder it seemed to cause trouble. The P-rocket went dead after being dropped on carpet. My soldering skills are pretty poor, but it seems like it would be worth risking a few bucks on new boards from DX to try to repair these. Any hints on replacement boards?

 

[langham]

http://dx.com/p/17mm-2800ma-5-mode-...uit-board-for-flashlight-diy-dc-3-4-5v-127684
https://illuminationsupply.com/8xam...2.html?zenid=107deb6779ddb9c6ea2d33aa6dd2631c (this will give it a little more kick)
This will give you the same 3 modes. In the p-rocket. Simply follow the instructions and solder the star to the outside of the board for the corresponding modes that you desire. I like the far right one that gives you 2 modes hi and low.
This would probably be a cheap addition as well to your p-60 lights. SKU: 5937 As for the driver, it is a good one, but if you want to change it I would just recommend looking around each person has their own preferences on these. Getting 2 or 3 modes without strobe may be difficult, especially sence you want to push it at less than 1000mA.
To answer another question P-60 lights are the easiest lights to modify, you simply have to find any 17mm driver and go to town. You really don't start running into trouble untill you start trying to run things in the 2.8A range.
The P-60 modules are notorious for not having good heat sinking, by that I mean they have virtually none, so I would not recommend driving them over 2.5A for extended use. That being said I have done it before and it doesn't do too bad. You want to make sure that when you change the driver you get a good solid connection between the driver and the pill. I personally make one solid solder point all of the way around the driver ( something like a weld) not for electrical connectivity but because this is also what physically attaches the two of them. Be carefull not to get the pill too hot or you will damage the led which is heatsinked to the pill.
Can you be more specific than L-mini XRE maybe include a pic. If it is an R-5 I would recommend driving it at a continuous 1000-1200mA.
I will monitor this thread if you want to ask further questions/provide more inormation.