Time to Make a Fenix LD01 Neutral

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nice! i went the expensive way and got one of the japanese neutral ld01's. either way, great light!
 
Time to revive an old thread! :poke:

I love my stainless steel LD01, except for the cool white emitter. I'm considering upgrading using a Cree XR-E Q3 5C Tint Neutral-Warm White LED Emitter with 15mm Base or perhaps XPE if it will fit well with the existing body/reflector.

Does anyone who has done this swap with the stainless steel version of the LD01 have any comments/pictures of the process?

Karl
 
Don't suppose anybody hass the pics from the OP around still? :)
 
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I'd like to see some pictures of the process too. :)
 
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I neutralized my LD01! Well, one them at least :)
I used the XP-G R4 neutral that i got out of my Quark (it has an XM-L neutral now).
Usually, when doing something like this i get so excited that i forget to take pictures, but i got some of the open LD01 head.
This is what you see after removing the head:

The plastic ring comes right off, there you see the emitter:


If you want i can take some more, or explain the steps that i took. This was the first time that i soldered the bare emitter, and it worked wonderful. I had to, because the R4 from the Quark was on a 14mm pcb that did not fit the LD01.
 
Cool. I would like to see how the head opens. I haven't figured that part out yet...
 
I put the head (the knurled part) in a vise and gripped the other part with an adjustable pair of pliers with heavy duty rubber band inbetween. The rubber band actually was a part of a strapwrench, but the strapwrench didn't get enough grip.
Leave the head on the body for that, so you don't crush the smooth part of the head. When the body is screwed in it gives more stability to the head.
 
SeanHatfield said:
0ozjazj7.jpg
Click to expand...

Hello, how likely is it that the aluminum reflector causes a short on the corner contacts (e.g. between #1 and #2)? Or are those contacts recessed? And what about bad centered LED's -- can they cause shorts?
Thanks for the great pictures! I wish there were even more (from different angles, of the black plastic, ..) for our records. CPF is a database of knowledge, so..
 
Sorry for that (very) late answer, but my life has significantly less spare time now...
As for bad-centered LEDs: that can't happen, that's what the plastic thing is for. The reflector fits perfectly into the plastic ring, and when you screw the head on, the reflector will push the plastic ring (and, by extension, the emitter) in place.
As far as i remember, the reflector will also not touch the LED because it first hits the plastic ring outside of the emitter region.

The next time i get to unscrew the light, i'll try to remember to take more pictures.
 
All photos from the OP hosted on photobucket are down by now.
Any chance to repost them all?

:)

I'll send a PM to the OP too.
 
Sorry for dredging up an old thread, but I'm sure there are many LDO1s that still live on.

I've EDC'd mine for over a year now. Love the light - but I'm not as fond of the tint. An emitter swap would be just the thing.

My question to those who've done it:
How hard is it to separate the head without damaging it?

Thanks-
John
 
Illuminated said:
Sorry for dredging up an old thread, but I'm sure there are many LDO1s that still live on.

I've EDC'd mine for over a year now. Love the light - but I'm not as fond of the tint. An emitter swap would be just the thing.

My question to those who've done it:
How hard is it to separate the head without damaging it?

Thanks-
John
Click to expand...

It is not too hard once you have heated the head for a while. I like to place the head on a mug warmer for 15 minutes, or more. It softens the epoxy and allows you to open it with a pair of strap wrenches. You may also find that using a thick rubber band will improve the grip. The strap wrenches that I use are Kobalt brand from Lowe's. They are reinforced rubber, and won't scratch the anodizing. Check out this old mod thread that details opening a Fenix L0P. It is very similar to the LD01, and will open the same way.
 
Thanks so much for the reply. That tutorial was very well done and should prove useful.

It gives me some ideas for my old Fenix L2P head...an old friend that deserves a new lease on life.

John
 
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