Tint depends upon brand? What?
- Thread starter GTSECC
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
burntoshine
Enlightened
it all depends on the LEDs, not necessarily the brands. different brands can use the same LEDs and one brand can use many different LEDs in their flashlights. there's a huge spectrum of many different tints out there. the tint of each LED depends on its phosphor mix. even LEDs from a batch of LEDs that are all supposed to be the exact same tint can have variations and be slightly different from each other.
Th232
Flashlight Enthusiast
Also note that when you're buying LEDs from the manufacturers, you generally get a pack that has reels that are sorted by bin and tint, so you'll get a reel with tint bin XYZ, and another reel with bin ABC. As a result of that, the brand that gets reel XYZ will have a large number of lights with that tint, another might be paying a premium for LEDs that are closer to pure white and so on.
jblackwood
Enlightened
The best way to get a certain tint, especially if you don't know what letters/numbers are used to designate said feature, are to ask the seller/manufacturer. When a seller advertises "neutral," it usually means anything that's not pure white or blue in tint. If they specify "neutral," they'll usually state the emitter and you you can do a search for what that specific tint is . . . some of the more popular are Q3 5A and Q3 5B. 5A is more yellow/peach, 5B is more brown.
MC-E shades are a mystery to me. Look them up on Gene Malkoff's site . . . I know he sells MC-E dropins as either neutral or warm. In that case, the Neutral/cool is the uncontrolled, standard brighter version and the warm is the slightly less bright but nicely tinted light. I have no experience with Gene's MC-E dropins but I do know that the shade designations are WC/WH and some others . . . like I said, go check his site if you want to find that out, I never bothered since I have what I think are perfectly white MC-E lights . . . two of them!
Personally, as long as a light's not green, I'm good. There's no designation for that, though. As with most other things, being on the cutting edge has its drawbacks. Higher bin LEDs just run the risk of coming with a greenish or bluish tint. I'm a tint monger, but even a sickly green tint didn't keep me from EDCing a Nitecore D10 for awhile . . . though it did keep some Quarks on the shelf!
:devil:
MC-E shades are a mystery to me. Look them up on Gene Malkoff's site . . . I know he sells MC-E dropins as either neutral or warm. In that case, the Neutral/cool is the uncontrolled, standard brighter version and the warm is the slightly less bright but nicely tinted light. I have no experience with Gene's MC-E dropins but I do know that the shade designations are WC/WH and some others . . . like I said, go check his site if you want to find that out, I never bothered since I have what I think are perfectly white MC-E lights . . . two of them!
Personally, as long as a light's not green, I'm good. There's no designation for that, though. As with most other things, being on the cutting edge has its drawbacks. Higher bin LEDs just run the risk of coming with a greenish or bluish tint. I'm a tint monger, but even a sickly green tint didn't keep me from EDCing a Nitecore D10 for awhile . . . though it did keep some Quarks on the shelf!
:devil:
jblackwood
Enlightened
One more thing, High CRI is the measure of color rendering, NOT tint. Though some may claim to perceive color better as the temperature moves towards a certain value, not all warm lights are high CRI, in fact I have a couple of bluish lights that render color much better than certain 5A or 5B lights I have, thought they do render certain parts of the spectrum better than others, which leads some to believe that it renders all colors better, not just green and brown.
