Triple XML / FM 3 inch head

Chodes

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99% complete.
1 reflector not straight, having a rest after huge build and sort that out later.

Huge build as I needed a huge heatsink for FM 3 inch head.
Drill press, hacksaw etc and quite a few hours and 1 Copper/ Al heatsink!

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Not that it looks small there, here it is next to H22A P7 Mag D / Download Multi Sink
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1 LED epoxied. Other 2 being done together, perspex so I can see before applying mass.
Cree XML2. 2 x T6 3C and 1 x T6 3A on Noctigon 20mm copper stars.
Cree XML-10R reflectors.
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Trial fit in head. Yes, lens is there. Reflectors are around 1mm shy of the lens and rattle around but don't fall off.
I need spacer/spacers. PC case rubber spacer/standoff almost works.
There is still a 3mm screw for handling.
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Complete with 3D backend.
Yellow piece is the standoff. 1 reflector slightly wonky. Centered, just not pointing straight ahead.
Going to be patient and think about good solution. Maybe just epoxy tiny piece underneath reflector to shim up a bit..
Beam has 2 LEDs burning 1 hot spot with 1 LED making an oval shape addition on 1 side.
Nice to sort now, but honestly exhausted after that sink.
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Direct drive at the moment.
Hooked up power supply, through the mag switch 9.5V resulted in 2A, 10.05V required for 3A.
So that's pretty low VF, DD will need caution.
Results with Samsung ICR2000 / Sony Konion (2 years old) cells:
3 x ICR2000 @ 3.81V = 4A
3 x Sony konion-V 3.85V = 3.7A
3 x Sony konion-V @ 3.95V = 4.4A

So the Sonys fully charged will be around 5A. Samsungs just too gutsy to use DD.
I'm thinking Der Wichtel 5A buck driver and use 4 x 3400mAh LIONs in Elephant or 4 x 26500 in the 3D Mag.

Regarding spacers for reflectors/LENS, anyone have suggestions?
I've thought of trying to glue 3 flat orings to top of reflectors.

For this assembly I managed to push down hard on the lens while screwing bezel down and kept lens still, rotating inside well lubed bezel
so if I had some orings that were a bit stiffer than normal it might be possibe not to distort the orings and twist them off the reflectors...
 
Last edited:

Chodes

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Just in the time to post I think I have sorted problem.
I used 18 AWG wires. I'm pretty sure the bigger wire / solder joint (than my typical 22 AWG) is causing reflector not to sit straight.
Just tidy 1 joint and should be OK. See if I can get different colour PC standoff too...
 

Chodes

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Thanks Norm.

The good thing about it is once it's all inside the head, it screws off easy in 1 piece
so I can swap to other body / add driver etc easily.
Once I get that wobbly reflector sorted it's plain sailing :)
 

Chodes

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It works. Added 3 more standoffs. Now have good beam, 1 round hot spot :)
Not entirely happy with the look. Black standoffs would look better IMHO.
Was dusk when I first posted, indoor ceiling bounce was mighty impressive, now I have 3 reflectors pointing the same way first few points out into the dark pretty impressive too.


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Chodes

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Nice job on that heatsink. I really do enjoy the FMX3 head.

Thanks mate. Yes, 3 inch head is big bucks but worth it IMHO.

I am now regretting not following your path and screwing down these LEDs rather than using epoxy.
If any of the LEDs do die, I'll drill the sink with the dead LEDs in place before replacing.

Time spent drilling and tapping probably regained with out lots of mucking around trying to align with wet epoxy and likely to achieve better contact/thermal transfer and make easy maintenance.

Those Noctigon stars really need some preparation! Gently trial fitting on the sink I got lots of scratches from the burred edges of the stars.
Next time, sand the bottom of stars before putting on polished heatsink :(
 

Chodes

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Wow!! That looks awesome!!:thumbsup:

Do you have any idea how many Lumens and cd it might have?

Good luck with it!

Cheers.
XML2 spec'd around 1000 Lumens at 3A.
Times 3 = around 3000Lumens. Over driven to 5A around 4800 LED Lumens.

I suppose 3500 - 4000 OTF Lumens would be a conservative estimate.
Those reflectors have good throw for their size so it's not as floody as many multis.
 

Chodes

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It's been fun playing the direct drive game.
The overall vf of LED string seems to have increased slightly.
I've worked up to 95% charged Samsung ICR2000 18650s, rested overnight. These are gutsy cells.

5.6 Amps! Cool just to see the number on my meter.
 

Chodes

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I've had a bit of time to use this, really like it. Starting a 2nd one with some minor tweaks.
Heatsink base, will have copper top like V1. Did some advanced human lathe work, pretty happy with result.
50mm diameter, 20mm thick al base will have good contact with 3 inch head.
About 2.5 hours and 5 bandaids.
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badtziscool

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2.5hours and 5 bandaids? That's one bandaid every 30 minutes. :nana:

Looking good though. Curious to know though what you meant by "advanced human lathe" work. :)
 

Chodes

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Yes, the bandaid average was achieved with 1 (stupid) incident. :eek:

I'll credit Ma_sha1 for creating the "Human Lathe" term.
Human lathe = making things you would normally use a lathe to make. (I don't own lathe)

I claim "advanced" due to the cone shape bottom.
 

Chodes

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2 x copper 3mm plates on top of the 20 mm bottom piece. Needed extra trim on bottom for good fit.
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Another 25mm thick al piece which will go inside the mag tube. Final plate will go on bottom of that for mounting driver.
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Ready for drilling/tapping for LEDs. Will do final cleanup of top copper surface after that.
 

Chodes

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Der Wichtel 5A driver arrived. Got a bonus 0.23A :)
Don't have a pot yet so it will be max only, 10K pot will allow adjusting down to around 0.5A.

Looks like it will be fairly simple to heatsink / pot and mount to my sink.
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pyro1son

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This is one good looking project can't wait to see the final outcome!
 

Chodes

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I can't help thinking this CPF thing is counter productive.
I have been raving about how good these XML10 reflectors are in a few threads.
Of course, now they are out of stock at Cutter....
 

Chodes

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Just waiting on reflectors now.
(Have these two, one is a bit hacked from previous builds , need 3 anyway..)

Bottom al piece copper wrapped - provides a housing for driver and now real tight in Mag tube.
3 x XML2 T6 4C LEDS.
15mm screws through the LEDS, copper plates not tapped so all 9 screws clamping the heatsink.
Mounted driver offset - easier for wires to LEDS.

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Trial fit and quick test.
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