UF-T50

[gcbryan]

I just received my UF-T50 in the mail today. I'd have to say this is the best "budget" light I've seen to date. It's basically a SC600 clone for $43.

It has an electronic ramping side switch rather than Zebralights UI. It's bright, has a magnet in the tail (easily removable) although it has a nice beam the bezel is removable as well for those who like to diffuse their lights (me).

Strobe mode is hidden (requires two quick button presses). It comes in a box (not all budget lights do) :)

It also has a green glow-in-the-dark o-ring for those who care about things like that.

It's small, bright, has a side switch and no crenelated bezel or other "funky" features. Otherwise not much to say other than I like it :)

 

[^Gurthang]

Bryan,

Just looked it up. Interesting light. any chance of a side-by-side comparo w/ a real SC600?

 

[gcbryan]

Bryan,

Just looked it up. Interesting light. any chance of a side-by-side comparo w/ a real SC600?

$43 vs $93 :)

Seriously, I can't do that as I don't have the SC600. I have Zebralight headlamps so I'm familiar with the UI and build quality but otherwise I'm just reading the spec sheet.

It was worth it (to me) to spend the additional money for the two Zebralight headlamps that I have. It wasn't for the SC600 since my existing P60 host with Thrunite drop-in served more or less the same function.

It was worth $43 (shipped) to have a side switch in a smaller form with the ramping as a bonus. The only functional difference between the two for me would be the Zebralight UI which I really like but it wasn't worth twice the price to me in this case for a light that I didn't really need in the first place :)

The look/finish on this light looks just as good (to me).

 

[iron potato]

Hey gcbryan, may I ask how is the quality of this UF T50 ? From the look of it, its sure SC600 look alike :)
How is the mode change ? Does it uses PWM ? Can it take flat top cell ? On Max mode, does it have step down circuitry ?

I have had bad experiences with UltraFire's flashlight before, clicky problem with U4-MCU, then WF-800L & RL-2088 having water ingress issue, so do u mind test yours in these particular area ?
I might give it a try if the quality does improve, thanks in advance ~

 

[gcbryan]

Hey gcbryan, may I ask how is the quality of this UF T50 ? From the look of it, its sure SC600 look alike :)
How is the mode change ? Does it uses PWM ? Can it take flat top cell ? On Max mode, does it have step down circuitry ?

I have had bad experiences with UltraFire's flashlight before, clicky problem with U4-MCU, then WF-800L & RL-2088 having water ingress issue, so do u mind test yours in these particular area ?
I might give it a try if the quality does improve, thanks in advance ~

Supposedly it uses PWM on all levels other than high but it's high enough that I can't detect it.

I checked and a flat top cell does work just fine. The battery fills the compartment, there is a tail cap spring and there is a solid protruding piece for contact at the head end of the battery compartment. So contact with a flat top is no problem.

The overall quality of the light looks good to me. Remember this is a $43 Ultrafire and not a $15 Ultrafire :)

What exactly is step-down circuitry? Remember this interfact is controlled by electronic ramping rather than having set modes of hi/med/low. As the battery goes down I'm not sure how it handles that yet as I haven't had it long enough. Tell me more about step-down circuitry and I'll try to figure out the answer for you.

I don't want to submerge this light in water. I'm pretty sure it could handle it as far as the o-ring that I can see near the tail and in front of the glass lens but I have no way of knowing how well the electronic side switch button is sealed.

My Zebralight headlamps have been through the washing machine (by accident) and were fine but I don't want to test this light that way :)

I'm sure it can handle the worst rainy weather (pretty sure anyway) and I think it should handle being dropped in a shallow puddle or whatever of water but because of the switch I don't want to test it.

Regarding the mode change...it works just fine. It's a ramping system. It is fairly rapid and doesn't stop at either end (high or low) so it's a little hard to stop exactly at high or low but after playing with it a bit I'm getting used to it. It's not as nice as the Zebralight UI but it's not bad and the button position and feel are fine. It also has memory.

I will say that the quality of the light in person is as good as it is in the pictures.

I hope this helps.

 

[iron potato]

Supposedly it uses PWM on all levels other than high but it's high enough that I can't detect it.

I checked and a flat top cell does work just fine. The battery fills the compartment, there is a tail cap spring and there is a solid protruding piece for contact at the head end of the battery compartment. So contact with a flat top is no problem.

The overall quality of the light looks good to me. Remember this is a $43 Ultrafire and not a $15 Ultrafire :)

What exactly is step-down circuitry? Remember this interfact is controlled by electronic ramping rather than having set modes of hi/med/low. As the battery goes down I'm not sure how it handles that yet as I haven't had it long enough. Tell me more about step-down circuitry and I'll try to figure out the answer for you.

I don't want to submerge this light in water. I'm pretty sure it could handle it as far as the o-ring that I can see near the tail and in front of the glass lens but I have no way of knowing how well the electronic side switch button is sealed.

My Zebralight headlamps have been through the washing machine (by accident) and were fine but I don't want to test this light that way :)

I'm sure it can handle the worst rainy weather (pretty sure anyway) and I think it should handle being dropped in a shallow puddle or whatever of water but because of the switch I don't want to test it.

Regarding the mode change...it works just fine. It's a ramping system. It is fairly rapid and doesn't stop at either end (high or low) so it's a little hard to stop exactly at high or low but after playing with it a bit I'm getting used to it. It's not as nice as the Zebralight UI but it's not bad and the button position and feel are fine. It also has memory.

I will say that the quality of the light in person is as good as it is in the pictures.

I hope this helps.

Hey thanks for informative reply gcbryan, so it may be using PWM for the ramping, take flat top cell & looks good :)
I think the ramping might be about the same as their headlamp series, decently ramps up & down which doesn't pause on max or lowest, unless reset back to max brightness.

One more question, is it a one-piece design from the front head area to the tail thread ? Meaning in 3 pieces of flat front bezel, body & tail cap ?

 

[Erzengel]

Body and head are separate parts, according to the pictures at Manafont.

 

[iron potato]

Thanks, just saw it at manafont site :thumbsup:

 

[gcbryan]

Hey thanks for informative reply gcbryan, so it may be using PWM for the ramping, take flat top cell & looks good :)
I think the ramping might be about the same as their headlamp series, decently ramps up & down which doesn't pause on max or lowest, unless reset back to max brightness.

One more question, is it a one-piece design from the front head area to the tail thread ? Meaning in 3 pieces of flat front bezel, body & tail cap ?

I can confirm that the bezel, head, body, and tail cap all come apart. Regarding the step-down (which I now understand) it doesn't have that "feature" nor does it appear to need it since it isn't driven as hard as the SC600 on turbo. It's driven at about 2.2A.

 

[iron potato]

I can confirm that the bezel, head, body, and tail cap all come apart. Regarding the step-down (which I now understand) it doesn't have that "feature" nor does it appear to need it since it isn't driven as hard as the SC600 on turbo. It's driven at about 2.2A.

Yea, I saw the T50 photos at manafont, thanks again gcbryan :thumbsup:

 

[gcbryan]

Iron Potato I've been sorely tempted to submerge my light since you've made your request. Another hobby of mine is scuba diving and I really like all of my lights to at least be able to handle a few feet of water. I test most of my lights but then again most of them are less expensive than this one and are easier to dry out :)

If anyone does submerge their light please post as I would like to know for sure that it can handle it! I've tested some dive lights and have modified a few inexpensive lights and have tested them while diving as well. I know what the weak points are in a light but I just don't know much about this switch In general buttons and water pressure don't go together but a foot or two is a different matter so Iron Potato if you buy this light I guess you can be the one to do the water test :)

 

[^Gurthang]

GC,

The T50 may become another budget "must have". When I asked about a comparison I was asking all the CPF memebers, not just you, sorry for the confusion. I'll have to check the MF version too, maybe add it to an upcoming order.

 

[iron potato]

Iron Potato I've been sorely tempted to submerge my light since you've made your request. Another hobby of mine is scuba diving and I really like all of my lights to at least be able to handle a few feet of water. I test most of my lights but then again most of them are less expensive than this one and are easier to dry out :)

If anyone does submerge their light please post as I would like to know for sure that it can handle it! I've tested some dive lights and have modified a few inexpensive lights and have tested them while diving as well. I know what the weak points are in a light but I just don't know much about this switch In general buttons and water pressure don't go together but a foot or two is a different matter so Iron Potato if you buy this light I guess you can be the one to do the water test :)

Hey, no problem, if I really get one, I surely test it in my basin first, but I still have a small UltraFire WF501A with me, 3 modes XM-L OP drop-in (2.6A / 700mA / 130mA), 18350 powered (use mid & low mode most), the reflector diameter should around T50, just T50 runs off 18650 & ramping electronic switch which is cool.

WF501A passed my test, clicked the switch, change mode etc, no sign of water ingress, but my other two (WF-800L & RL-2088) couldn't hold up while in the water basin :shrug:

Hmmm.... maybe I shall replace it with T50, because I hate reverse clicky :devil: